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9

I've been composting with worms awhile now and believe I have some good advice for you: 1) if you are using the active compost method, you can't use worms. Red wiggler Worms survive from 40-95°Fahrenheit (4-35°Celsius), but the optimum temp is from 60-77°F (16-25°C). If you will be having a lot of waste and want to use worms to compost with, you have a ...


8

There's no conflict between your data. Worms clearly eat animal manure, and the bacteria and fungi that comes with it. But it's recommended that you use aged (horse) manure to avoid heating up the worm bin when the manure starts to compost.


8

You can print out page 9 of this pdf http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/23949/em9034.pdf and stick it near your bin. Just a list alone is not so useful as it won't give the reasons. Food that is okay. Fruit and vegetable scraps and peels. Potatoes peels are okay, but worms tend to avoid them (figure 14). • Eggshells or other ...


7

Those probably aren't "worms", but inchworms or, more precisely caterpillars of geometer moths. This is a very large family of insects, found in many places of the world. They are easily recognizeable by their characteristic mode of movement: They use only the legs at the front and rear of their body, forming a "loop" like the greek letter "omega", then ...


7

Not necessarily - if you mean they're in the top layer of the contents, rather than separate from them and hiding in the lid of the container, they tend to consume stuff near the top of the pile for preference, operating primarily in the top layers - more info in the link below, including good things to include for ANC specifically http://www.wormfarmfacts....


6

I'm not sure about the specific species, but they appear to be worms from the family Enchytraeidae (commonly known as potworms). They are not earthworms, but similar. They feed on/live in decayed organic matter, and do not harm plants. They need moisture to thrive, and prefer a low pH. When the conditions are right, they tend to multiply rapidly. They are ...


6

Ask any kid who grew up on a small ranch or dairy who's kicked apart the cow pats. They're mostly grass, the nitrogen has mostly been extracted by the digestive process (Go Ruminants!). And the red worms take over the cow pats pretty quickly after a week or two and go to town. If you're getting cow pen waste, it's a different matter as the urine content ...


6

Chop the carrots up, just to make sure. They're most likely holes left by larvae of the carrot fly, and they may long have left and turned into flies. Even if you do inadvertently cook one in the soup, consider it an extra bit of protein, it won't harm you, although if you're vegetarian, you might want to slice them quite finely to make sure.


6

I would just comment, but i feel the need to ramble. I have had red worms for about 4 years, I have over wintered them 4 ways, they were always in a bin every year but one. In my basement one year, they were fine. In two different garages, they were fine. Last winter I decided to try to overwinter outside. I dug a hole 24 inches deep, maybe 3 foot square. ...


6

It is best to add worms when the ground is thawed out long enough to let them get safely into the subsoil where it will not freeze. It can be done day or night at any temperature above 35 degrees Fahrenheit, if the ground is thawed. Worms will not tolerate freezing. They will get safely underground in an hour at most. If you have your worms ready and the ...


6

If your soil is in good condition, with plenty of humus content, and it isn't too dry most of the time, worms will be present. Lack of worms in the soil, assuming it's not dry as dust, is a good indicator of soil fertility - few or no worms means it's poor. Adding humus rich materials regularly (certainly yearly) such as composted animal manures, good ...


6

As I'm in the UK and my geographical knowledge is appalling, I'm not sure what kind of winters you get where you are. If you get cold winters, and you have Fall (autumn) starting around September, then certainly in the UK, by the end of October, worms have burrowed down much deeper to get away from the cold. If October is very mild with no overnight frosts ...


5

You shouldn't trouble yourself too much to add worms - red wigglers, called brandlings in the UK, are primarily a worm you find in compost heaps and mostly not in containers with plants; earthworms will arrive all on their own in containers if conditions are right. If the conditions aren't right, adding them means they'll be on the next bus out anyway, or ...


5

Basically you are right. The processes in a compost heap are a bit more complex than in a worm bin, because worms should be a part of a (only warm, not hot) compost heap among other, way smaller microorganisms. The main advantages of worm bins are that they are way smaller and fit easily even on a balcony and that the worms inside (and you have a much ...


5

What you're doing is a high tech form of potholing. Using a post hole digger, go down 18", fill with kitchen compost and cover. The post hole digger means you just place them any old place near the plant's root system as nutrient packages for the worms in the soil which will live mostly in the material, converting it to worm castings. It's not how far the ...


5

According to our resident expert, who manages several black soldier fly colonies, this is, indeed, a black soldier fly. From the University of Florida Entomology & Nematology dept: Adults: Members of the soldier fly family Stratiomyidae can range in color from yellow, green, black or blue, with some having a metallic appearance. Many are mimics of ...


5

The cabbage worms will definitely find your cabbages. I don't know whether they do it using smell or sight but they will find it. That is the reason to put row cover on the brassicas to avoid any further damage. Before you put the row cover, go through the plants to make sure you have removed all the cabbage worms that are already there.


4

It might be more to do with the fact you're not getting as much rain as usual - earthworms surface during wet weather, and many reasons for this have been proposed, but no one really knows why they do it. There are theories about oxygen shortage in waterlogged soil, or needing to come to the surface for breeding purposes, and these are all possibilities, but ...


4

So, some design questions are: What would make a good mesh? Chicken wire with 1/4" squares? Large chicken wire + large-mesh burlap? I would say that mesh would adequately hold the soil from caving in; small mesh would be best (worms can move in and out of pretty small places!). You could use a nursery pot to form a "mesh pot" and place the mesh pot in ...


4

I have seen this done with plastic piping (the large type used for plumbing mains), which I didn't like so much because I'm really down on plastic. However I loved the concept of it and was also trying to come up with my own design. I originally thought of making sort of a box from wood and drilling plenty of holes in it, but I like your idea of using ...


4

If you're talking about leachate (worm castings steeped in water), some gardeners say that this tea will have approximately the same benefit to plant growth as the pure composted worm castings themselves. But studies have shown that, in the long run, using the castings directly in the soil will produce better plant growth, often far better, than does ...


4

Based on Bamboo's answer link, I would like to quote the information that helps me Typical of all composting, or vermicomposting, worms ANCs come up to the surface of their bedding to eat decomposing matter. So they thrive near the surface layer of top soil or bedding. African night crawlers literally gobble up decaying matter. Watching a few ...


4

The transparent wormlike things may well be fruit fly larvae - the yellow ones not sure what they are, but I'm willing to bet they came in on the fennel you tried to transplant into the same soil in the pot. Fruit flies like damp soil, so if you've been overwatering, that would explain their presence; the flies may originally have been attracted by fruit ...


4

Well yes, they excrete like all animals, and yes this would contain nutrients. You are unlikely to see that though as they are quite fastidious creatures and like to do their own composting. You may sometimes see granular material that they have deposited around the entrances to their nest, but this is just material that they have excavated. In an open ...


3

If there is just a little water in the bottom, then the next time you moisten your worm bin you should be able to just pour it back over the top. Wikipedia says: The dark brown waste liquid, or leachate, that drains into the bottom of some vermicomposting systems as water-rich foods break down, is best applied back to the bin when added moisture is ...


3

Fruit drop in figs can be caused by nematodes but there are other causes. From this document causes include: cool weather insufficient irrigation weak trees and nematodes. Figs that develop on the ends of branches often dry out or drop because there has not been enough heat for them to mature. Smyrna-type figs will drop when they are partly grown if they ...


3

Bamboo's answer is what I came here to write, excellent advice there. One other thing worth adding is to avoid doing things that will send worms away: harsh chemicals and overuse of rototilling. (For the reasons that it's hard to live somewhere that the soil is literally killing you, and tilling will tend to shred worms, which is the opposite of your goal.) ...


3

I think it doesn't really matter. Both are full of nutrients and micro-organisms (beneficial bacteria). Pick the one that feels most natural to you or what suits best for your way of gardening.


3

It sounds like you have Eastern Tent Caterpillars, Malacosoma americanum. This is a very common pest in the U.S.. You can cut off affected branches, and destroy them. Make sure the caterpillars are killed. You can also use a broad-spectrum insecticide early in the season. This may not penetrate the web, so it isn't the most effective method of treatment. ...


3

I am going to say more or less the same thing. Given the mint died and these guys appeared, they can't be good, even if they are harmless. We will need either an entomologist or someone specialized in agriculture to say exactly what worms they are. Posting on the Biology Stackexchange with close up shots might help. In the meanwhile, I'd dump the soil. If ...


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