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4

Give them a good soaking of water, wait for the top 2 or 3 inches of soil in the pots to dry out, and repeat. Depending on the temperature, humidity, and the soil in the pots each cycle may take anything from a few days to a couple of weeks. Frequent small amounts of water will encourage the roots to grow up to the surface, which you don't want. Keeping ...


4

Depends on how much money and work you want to put into it. I once helped a friend who wanted trees in a 60 acre former corn field he bought. He welded up a couple things to poke a 12" deep holes in the ground and we put in about a zillion cuttings of various trees. I never saw it again but he did occasionally speak of his "woods". Same fellow ...


3

I know I'm coming in super late to the conversation but I want to add that I believe it is okay to plug "living" "trees" circumstantially if you have a large piece of land and want to infect a tree that you don't mind kill or is already dying although killing the tree is kind of a bummer it's not the end of the world. I live in woods with ...


2

It is safe , you will just lose potential blooms from the buds that have formed on the branches to be removed. That could be a good thing as the tree will not put energy into those missing blooms and could use it to grow . I have done this on various young perennials to encourage more growth.


2

If it's seeping fluid, its gummosis/canker; if the fluid is foul smelling, it's bacterial canker and unfortunately, there is no treatment. Trees with canker, though, will be rotting on the inside, and over time will become unstable and will eventually fall; I suggest you call an arborist (or tree surgeon, depending what country you live in) to inspect the ...


2

When using nails or screws in trees, it will always harm the tree of course. But when done properly, your tree will survive and stay healthy. Compare it with getting ears pierced, everyone knows that it is not healthy to stick sharp objects through body parts, however when done properly and when it heals some might even find it attractive. Please consider a ...


2

It is a bracket fungus, and it spells the death of your tree. That can take some time, but you say you noticed the fungus on the other trunk that broke during a wind, which means this has been going on for some time. As you've observed, the rot takes place inside the tree, and the bracket fungus appears some time later, as it progresses. There is nothing ...


2

I looks like mostly moss with small bits of light green lichen. I doubt either will harm the tree.


2

There seems to be new bark growing where the old has come off. If the bald area extends right round the tree and there is no new bark growing underneath, the tree will not live long, but you don't mention any other visible problems with your trees so that seems unlikely. Your picture only shows half the circumference of the tree trunk, of course. If there is ...


1

There's no reason why you can't extend the mulch cover to within an inch or two of the trunk, assuming the mulch is something of organic origin, isn't too deep, and won't be sitting over any tree roots showing above the soil. Organic mulches (composted materials, bark chips and so on) are preferable to inorganic mulches because the latter don't improve the ...


1

Yes, they are "just" overcrowded and trying to reach some daylight. When the only leaves on a branch are at the end, because the rest is too dark for anything to grow, the weight of the leaves will naturally pull the branch down. The solution is to fell maybe half the trees or even more, to give the others room to grow properly. Or fell them all, ...


1

If you let it evolve naturally you will eventually get some mature trees like oak, maple, pine etc (assuming there are other trees already growing somewhere nearby, and enough wind and/or wildlife to spread the seeds) but "eventually" might be 50 years from now. One survey of about 45 unmanaged sites in the UK found that "although the sites ...


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