16

When you are dealing with plants which are going to end up in containers anyway you absolutely could opt to seed them into those containers indoors and then later move the containers outside once you've hardened off the plants. They might turn out just fine that way and I'd absolutely encourage you to try that - seeing what works is part of the fun of ...


12

Time of year: Any time of year works, as long as the ground is not frozen, or the air very hot and dry. Obviously frozen ground will be 'hard to work with', and you will not be able to plant the tree properly. If the air is hot and dry, then sometimes even when the soil has sufficient moisture, the tree with it's compromised root system could dry out and ...


11

I've never heard of the need. The issue with hardening is that you're taking a plant in a largely controlled environment with low light levels, and a steady temperature, no wind, to a highly varied environment with strong sunlight, a wider range of temperatures and wind. The stems have to harden, the leaf wax increases, and probably lots of other ...


8

I usually move mine in the spring, but have moved them in the early fall with good results. If you live in a cold climate, be sure to move them early enough so they can get established before the ground freezes. I generally just use compost and composted manure, but others may have better advice on ammendments.


8

If you make the pots out of newspaper (black & white only is the best -- definitely not glossy/coated), and the plants aren't overgrown, then just plant the pots in the ground. Newsprint will rot away quickly. If the plants are large (starting to become root bound in the pots), it wouldn't hurt to slash the paper a bit when planting so that the roots ...


8

Don't overthink it. They transplant reasonably well, as in, take a shovel, dig em up, replant quickly without giving the roots time to dry out (or dig up, heel in to keep the roots moist, then plant - but if you can do it in one step it's less work for you, less shock for them.) I would question why that row is fading - if it just needed severely pruned, ...


8

In many cases, it is simply for convenience. However; there are some plants which do not tolerate transplanting. Therefore, to start seeds indoors to get a head start and/ or maximize their strong stocks, people use peat pots so they can transfer them outdoors without transplantation. One noted example of an intolerant plant is corn.


7

Separating young seedlings can be tricky because their roots tend to be quite tender and easily damaged. Often the prescription for seedlings is that you"thin" them out - either pulling or (more often and less likely to disturb the roots of the ones you wish to keep) snipping them off with scissors. Sounds terrible - thinning goes against the idea in our ...


7

In addition to keeping any sprouts wet while waiting to plant, you should thoroughly saturate the pot itself just prior to putting in the ground. It is also recommended that you "tear away the bottom half of the pot before placing the plant in its hole to exposes some roots to direct contact with the soil.(source)" On the latter step I am not 100% sure it ...


7

According to "How to Grow More Vegetables" by John Jeavons, you can start almost all vegetables inside and transplant them. In my experience, this isn't necessarily true. As @Om Patange mentions, corn, beans, and garlic are best planted straight in the ground. Potato, carrots, and parsnips (to pick some common vegetables) should also go straight in the ...


7

Look up the last frost date for your zip code here. Duluth, for example, has a last frost date of May 21. Or, as Ed Staub points out in a comment below, for a better picture of the situation go to the original source of the data at the National Climatic Data Center (1971-2000): View the data sheet for your state. In the "State and Station Name" column, ...


7

The spinach seedlings are far more fragile; I'd recommend moving the mint. You can do it anytime, but the sooner the better. As you have just planted the mint, it should come out fairly easily. Be as careful as possible, and don't disturb the spinach seedlings. Repot the mint normally in a new container, and refill the hole in the mix for the spinach. I'd ...


7

You can actually do whichever you want. I've done both. If the plants are healthy, feel free to take the plastic hanger supports off and set it on top of the other pot or somewhere else in the yard. Make sure there's enough drainage from that bigger pot so that when you water it, it's not sitting in stagnant water. However, any time you have a bigger pot, ...


7

Some plants are sensitive to light changes (such as Shark Fin Melon). I think this is partially because Shark Fin Melon is supposed to rely on light changes to know when to set fruit, but even though it may wilt for a while, it recovers. I don't know of any issues with basil. However, if there are issues, I recommend just keeping the plant as strong and ...


7

Patience. One of the hardest parts of being a gardener. Strawberry plants rarely produce berries the first year they are transplanted. Instead they spend most of their resources and nutrients establishing a strong root system so they are ready to fruit next year. By that time most of the Nitrogen content of the manure will have either been A) taken up by ...


7

In my 25 years as a landscaper in the Pacific Northwest, I have never heard of such a treatment. With that said, the only thinking I can come up with is that the arborist feels that by watering in the tree, you will be overly compacting the soil, destroying the larger air pockets, and trapping excess water around the rootball which might cause rot. I would ...


6

Different plants act differently when they outgrow their pots. Some plants crack the pots, some pull in the soil, some just stop growing. This plant is healthy, but repotting would be a good idea. Money trees naturally have plenty of soil to grow in, so putting it in a pot too large won't damage it. They should be repotted once a year. If the roots haven't ...


6

I have found that some plants benefit from being started inside and others are hindered. From my experience, these plants should be started inside to maximize the growing season (this is not an exhaustive list): tomatoes: plant part of the stem under the ground, laying horizontally. This will allow the plants extra roots. peppers I am trying eggplants and ...


6

First of all,you should have let the plants rest, which means you should not put it in sun. You must put it in light which is enough for you to be able to see everything (not too dark and not at all bright). Secondly, you must not prune off any leaves except those which are entirely dead, since it will only stress out your plant even more. Imagine what you ...


6

As a plant gets bigger it gets more roots - when you move a plant, especially when you remove it from a pot, even very carefully, you destroy many of the roots. This shocks the plant and can put it back / /kill it. Also some plants develop a tap root and obviously they can't do this in a pot. In this situation I would use a larger peat / paper pot and move ...


6

I gardened for many years in Zone 4b/5a at 9/10ths of a mile elevation before moving to Zone 8a last summer. For many of the plants you mentioned, age of the transplant is not a huge issue, as long as while you are growing them out inside you move them to larger pots as their root balls fill the old ones, plus you are careful with the roots and make sure to ...


6

You can do that, but not for more than a couple days, before giving them light again. You don't want to see any signs of etiolation, or you will have to 'harden off' the plants back into light. If you have to hold them longer than that, try to find some better lighting, indirect sunlight or a bright fluorescent or LED bulb. Even if it's cold, the darkness ...


6

This looks a lot like a tiny maple seedling in it's first year, note the cotyledons - the seed leaves, the (in this case long & tongue-shaped) leaves that appear before the true leaves - which are still present. The pictures are a bit blurry, so I can't be absolutely sure but I've seen dozens of these under my Granny's Japanese Maple. Potting up ...


6

I have no idea how you've managed to find only references that suggest this "scorched earth" approach to repotting - which is only appropriate (IMHO) when you are trying to salvage plants with soil disease issues (and not that great then - vegetative propagation from above the soil line is a path with greater chance of success in that case.) "Cleaning the ...


6

Roots head for moisture not walls. If you want a plant with deep roots, you water deeply and allow to dry before watering again. This trains the roots to grow towards the water so it will have the ability to access water way below the surface, thus drought tolerant/resistant. The most important reason to maintain pot size to the plant size is water/...


6

This is another one that I've done. For reference I'm in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, USDA zone 6b, last frost in April, First frost in September. We get 40-60" of precipitation per year, and the soil is mostly decent clay based soil, sometimes rocky. There were 3 of the trees and they were at about 12', so yours might be bigger. Because they dry and burn easily ...


5

You don't need an intermediate pot. Since the roots are going out their pots, it means they need more space, hearth and food. You have to choose the largest space to them. You have to plant them deep. You could also plant them in normal soil, to its normal level, and ridging the ground later, when the plants are higher. Cut the leaves is not very important, ...


5

It's a Pieris japonica of some variety, and these do make between 10 and 12 feet. They don't like being heavily pruned on a regular basis, so keeping it small isn't an option, and at that height, this is a mature shrub which, if it's to survive, would need a crane and a tarpaulin to lift out the (massive) rootball. If the Acer's (Japanese maple) not been in ...


5

This has worked for me for 20+ years, just like tomatoes. And of course, don't over water to avoid root rot.


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