14

First let me say, I'm no expert when it comes to sharpening lawnmower blades, I've done it on the odd occasion -- only on rotary mower blades, never on cylinder or reel mower blades. I do sharpen my own hand-tools, things like wood chisels, plane blades, etc and use sharpening stones to do those, but when it comes to lawnmower blades I've personally found ...


12

I use my hose all winter as part of maintaining a backyard rink. We use brass fittings and they don't leak. Now, we don't leave the hose outside with water in it, and I don't think you should either. (At the risk of being overly clear I mean the habit of turning off the hose at the nozzle (the business end), then walking back to the tap and turning off the ...


10

In the absence of a better answer, here's what I do on my walk-behind 24" "flat blade" / vertical-axis mower: Before doing anything else, remove the wire from the spark plug. You don't want it to start accidentally. Wear heavy gloves. Turn the machine on its side. Gas tank up, so it doesn't leak. (Ideally, the tank is empty when I do this.) Wedge a board ...


9

These seem trendy. They are glass bulbs that you fill with water, then stick in the soil. They'll slowly drain over a few days:


8

I don't have a lawn tractor, but presumably this is a lead acid battery? (i.e. similar to a car battery but smaller) If so, when stored for long periods of time, they should be hooked up to a slow charger. Power requirements are minimal: what you need is more of a float charger to avoid self-discharge. (i.e. any lead acid battery charger will do, but set it ...


6

Yes, this is a good practice. Candidates for cleaning include secateurs, hedge shears, grafting knives and anything that contacts plant tissue. A quick dip in alcohol followed by a wipe down should go a long way to remove any plant material that has pathogens in it. However, as much as it is good advice, I rarely do this. alcohol can rust steel and must ...


6

This is a good question, but I'm not sure it's answerable. (Or, if it is answerable, you'll get answers from controlled experiments that will be useless to compare to real-world usage.) I know from experience that my gas-powered saw will run for about 30-40 minutes on a tank of gas when I'm bucking logs for firewood. That's running at more or less full ...


6

If you look at this manual (I'm not sure if this is your exact mower), there's an exploded parts view on page 86. I suspect it's the bearing labeled "26" in the diagram. There are several of them, so check each location on your mower.


5

I am by no means a small engines expert (and someone should correct me if I'm wrong), but as far as I know, running with extra oil will make it smoke while running and may foul up your spark plug (?) which is easily fixable, but won't cause any permanent damage. Running it with less oil than recommended would mean insufficient lubrication and may damage the ...


5

Here's what I've done on my two-stroke chainsaw when it has refused to start: Remove and replace spark plug; check the gap. Remove and clean [with an air compressor] or replace air filter. (I just blow it out, I haven't yet replaced the filter.) If you see gunk when you're removing these parts, clean it up. (Because of all of the sawdust and bar oil, the ...


5

I keep a bottle of alcohol in my pruning gear along with silicon spray and files. Clean your pruners between each and every plant. If you've ever killed plants by passing on diseases you'll understand. Some plants have diseases that aren't apparent because of their vigor, genetics or beneficials preventing the disease from causing harm. But easy to pass ...


5

Yes, you should clean it after mowing. You really need a lawnmower cleaning brush, a narrow one that gets between the blades to take off anything lurking there, and for a general scrub down of dirty parts. You could hose it down if you wanted, but you'd need to dry it off before oiling and storing it, so its not something I'd do. Check the area where the ...


5

It is hard to give really detailed advice on how to fix the pull rope. However generally speaking the shroud over the rope recoil winder assembly needs to be removed. Then it is possible to get at the rope re-winder assembly to reattach the rope. Usually the rope is knotted at the end and slips into a notch or retainer bracket on the spool of the rewinder. ...


5

We've been trying to hammer the solution to this issue to our customers since B&S & many other manufacturers, switched to their aerodynamically shaped fuel tanks for esthetic-reasons, mainly to match the new OHV engine styles. In doing so they knowingly created a nightmare for owners of same equipment. These tanks have a domed-like top, & ...


5

Simply don't. Trimmer are kind of tricky tools. Moreover if it is an electric model. If you have no idea on what to do or where to start to find the issue, you should go ask for specialized advice. you indeed easily can leave a finger in those. Don't test your luck with that.


4

I would say that it is worth the time, based on my sharpening experiences. Here is a nice e-how article on the process that breaks it down better than I ever could. I've only sharpened trimmers a few times, but I have sharpened chainsaw chains by hand quite a bit with a round file and it didn't take long at all. Just a bit of patience. The trick is to be ...


4

a couple tips: don't lose those nuts; remember the direction the rope is wound; and finally your last step should be making a good stopper knot that won't pull through or come undone at the handle. Make sure there is a little tension on the rope where you make the knot.


4

It should not need to be even as sharp as a spade, because penetration is less (say 2 - 3 inches rather than nearer 12"). And used like a spade (forced down with a foot on top of the blade) even quite blunt should 'do the job'. On the other hand, if there are stones or pebbles or roots to 'cut' through robustness is a good idea. I had one where the metal ...


4

Sounds as if a sensor is gooed up. If you are able to keep the dirt out of engines those engines will last forever! You need an introduction to your repair crew who if you butter them up will teach you all you need to know I kid you not! In one inexpensive visit you will get valuable know how so that you will be able to fix most 2 stroke/cycle engines! ...


3

Double edges make for sharper edges that can be maintained. Have you ever used a 'hula hoe'...? Hoes were made to pull and push then they found by getting rid of the body of the hoe's head would make pushing easier. Scissors are beveled on one edge but they only work because another one edge is working against the other to cut.


3

Yes there are different plugs for different engines. Usually you need the engine model on your mower, and take in the old spark plug to the hardware store. Ask for someone to help you find the right spark plug and tell them your engine model and mower model. Usually near the spark plugs at the store there is a booklet showing your old model of spark plug ...


3

You can test your magneto (can also be called a coil) directly to see if it works. If you have the coil off of the engine, you can do a resistance test on it to see if it's fried. I don't know what the exact make of the engine is, since Craftsman power tools utilize many different brands and re-brands them. It could be a Briggs and Stratton, but more than ...


3

Sandpaper works for straight edged tools. A 120 grit or finer will take the little nicks out of the edge. Of course, regular sharpening and not trying to cut things that are too hard or too large means less work to sharpen. For secateur and other tools with a curved blade any sharpening surface with a fixed edge works better. There are any number of ...


3

I also travel frequently and use the "Hydrospike". Basically it siphons water up from a container into a clay spike, which slowly diffuses the water. The flow can be "regulated" by the number of spikes you use ;-) The physics doesn't quite make sense to me, but against all odds, it seems to work quite well. The longest trip I've used it for was 10 days, with ...


3

A simple and cheap method is to take a 2 liter bottle and poke a very small hole in the top, then put the bottle upside down in your soil. You can regulate the flow of water by making the hole larger or smaller. This may not work if you are gone for a very long period, but would probably work well if you are only gone for a few days. It also doesn't look ...


3

I think your technique is adequate. I bought a bench grinder years ago for such a use. I no longer use it. I have found the angle of the grinder rarely matches the angle of the blades. I currently use an angle grinder with a "polishing" or "cutting" disc. You get a five pack at HD for like $6. I have 3 mowers so I usually sharpen at least 3 blades, ...


3

Use wax paper to clean the metal parts. Then you can put furniture paste wax on them to prevent rust. The handles, if they're not too far gone, can be renewed with boiled linseed oil.


3

You can pick up a rock and use that. If you find that some rocks work better, you're on your way to re-living the history of the natural sharpening stone industry in microcosm. It started with rubbing tools on rocks. It helps if you understand edge geometry and what you should be aiming for - a tool like @kevinsky linked to takes much of the thought and ...


3

So long as you're not reusing the oil, the following time tested method will work... Require: Length of (3 feet or 1 metre) clear plastic tubing; Jug of water; Container of adequate size to contain all oil extracted from oil chamber. Method: Place the container next to the lawnmower but at a level/height lower than the bottom of the oil chamber in the ...


2

More for brush cleaning than tool preservation I wiped some garden tools with Hammerite and was surprised at the improvement in appearance and how long this lasted even with the tools in use. Note this was definitely not painting the surfaces as Hammerite is intended to be used. Only drying out the brushes that had already been soaked in brush cleaner/...


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