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10

All of the currant family (red, black, gooseberry, lingonberry...) do reasonably well in shade. High and low bush cranberry do well in shade. If you have light shade, look at nut trees. It will be a good while before they produce, but it's worth a look. Hickory, hazelnut, walnut, beechnut are possibilities. I recall that one of persimmon and pawpaw do ...


9

You are going to have a very difficult time growing much in the forest portion of your land. Yes, currants and gooseberries, black raspberries, and possibly sour cherries will tolerate the shade and fruit, but most things will not. As far as vegetables go, you should be able to grow leafy greens - especially in the spring before the trees have leafed out, ...


8

Your plant appears to be an Areca palm which is now known as Dypsis lutescens. This looks like a combination of factors: overwatering promotes anerobic conditions in the soil which promote fungus. The black spots and brown spots are indicators of this. Another identification is the classic signs of fungus growth which is a spot with a ring on the inside ...


7

Try Arizona Ash (Fraxinus velutina). This tree fits with all of your needs, except for size. It gets 30-50' high and spreads 30-50'. It is a good shade tree, it is wind, drought, and heat resistant, grows rapidly, looks good, and has good yellow fall color. Good in any soil. Fraxinus velutina 'Fan-Tex' is similar. It gets 30-50' high, 30' wide, and grows ...


7

It's not so much the variety of tree which counts for making a small treehouse, it's more its maturity, size, climbability, and particular forking of branches that make it a suitable subject for one. Most amateur treehouses are erected in trees that provide those conditions, and they will usually be 70-90 years old or more, with a trunk girth of more than 6 ...


6

Define "Best". Fastest to grow? Longest to live? Provide the most shade? Easiest to maintain? Ideal for your climate? Obviously, it all depends. For 'instant' shade in 5-10 years, that's going to require that you purchase a tree that is somewhat mature already fast growing The drawback to that is expense (the more mature the tree, the larger it ...


6

Creeping thyme - hardy to at least USDA zone 4, thins a bit in light shade, tolerates heat very well, flowers in summer and attractive to bees, maintenance limited to ripping it out when it gets too big. Never had a problem with bees but it will self seed. Not suitable for culinary use. Irish moss - hardy to at least USDA zone 4, tolerates shade, small white ...


6

Top of mind i would have suggested Mango, Avocado and Litchis which all provide delicious fruit and fantastic shade. I also thought of Macadamia, but turns out the growth rate is slow. In the end, after some research, here are some interesting indigenous alternatives: Syzygium cumini / Jambolan / Jamun / Java plum: Evergreen dense foliage, grown for ...


6

Should be fine - needs warmth and good daylight, but not having any sun as a houseplant is fine, even outdoors it prefers dappled sunlight or partial shade, see here https://www.gardenseeker.com/indoor-plants/callisia_repens.htm


5

Plumbago capensis, very nice, covered with flowers all the summer, no sun, no scent. Suffers a lot from ice. Lonicera caprifolium, forest plant, white flowers yellow or pink all the summer, delicious perfume, very tolerant to frost Hydrangea petiolaris, very nice, stand the cold to the foot. Appropriate mulch with dry leaves or straw. Thunbergia (...


5

I am on Long Island, in New York, zones 6 - 7. When we moved in to our current home, we inherited a sweet autumn clematis growing on the north wall of the house. It gets very little sun (if any) and it grows/climbs quickly, starting in early spring. Small white flowers bloom in the early fall. The plant is thick and green all summer. We also have a fair ...


5

It's a bit of a tall order, wanting plants that perform best in spring, summer and winter and not autumn, but I've had a go! Check out Ruscus aculeatus, the variety 'Sparkler' if you can get it, because that one's hermaphrodite and will produce red berries which last well into Winter. Otherwise, you'd need a mix of male and female to get berries. It's ...


5

As DA says, a local arborist should give you good advice. Along with all the other questions: What is your water like? If you have sufficient water, then Alabama says "Magnolia" to me. Dense foliage and they can grow big, but I'm not sure how fast they grow. More ideal for the wetter parts of the Gulf States, people do grow them in gardens here in DFW and ...


5

The one shade tree you have there looks like a red oak or similar. These should grow fairly quickly if properly encouraged. Every year put tree food spikes around the drip line, and water regularly if not getting enough rain. Also, an interim solution would be the 3 pane window and attic insulation. Also, a arizona ash will grow very quickly and can be ...


5

Apricot trees are great for shade. Our Mormon apricot provides the most (as in darkest) shade out of all our fruit trees. It's a fairly young tree, too (about 6-12 years since it was planted in our yard from the nursery). It's a good spot to harden off plants. We have, and have had peach, nectarine, apples (McIntosh, Yellow Delicious and others), cherry, ...


5

You can grown indian almond You can also grow Neem tree which gives a lot of cool shade and small fruit which is eaten by some birds. Both the trees mentioned above are native to India. They shed the leaves in autumn. But all through out the year they give lot of shade. Indian Almond will give its fruit in Winters. Mango is also extremely shady tree ...


5

No undergrowth forest plus creek makes me immediately think of allium ursinum (European variety) or allium tricoccum (US native). Both are happy to cover the forest floor in spring and disappear later in the year. If you are lucky, they take hold and propagate themselves. Not exactly a mass food source, but a spring kitchen staple for me. Used fresh in ...


5

No, doesn't need to be in shade - lilac does prefer full sun, but that doesn't mean it won't cope with any shade. It may be getting more sun than you're aware of, but whether you can move it successfully or not is dependent on how long its been there - if you don't know that, then it depends how big it is, and whether its a dwarf variety. If it's been in ...


5

Carex pensylvanica seed is available in quantity at Prairie Moon Nursery. The species is difficult to germinate, the cost is considerable at $300 per ounce of approximately 30k seeds, and the plant is not as shade-tolerant as commonly believed, thinning out after a few years of less-than-substantial sunlight. Possible substitutions of shade-tolerant, North-...


5

almost no mow shade grass This fine fescue is gorgeous as an understory ground cover. Make sure you mow it twice a year because when it starts falling over it will be so thick as to block any sun and/or trap moisture and you'll get rot and grass kill. When it starts the fall over and sweeps you have about a month before you have to mow it. The height to ...


5

In my opinion, it is not a big deal. Six hours are enough. You can cut some branches of the other tree, and wait the spruce to grow, so it will get more sun. In nature, young tree tend to grow in semi-shadows (most will die or be dormant also for decades in shadows, waiting a old tree to fall). I just expect that it will grow very slow, but (also in my ...


5

If you check the area where you want to plant, you will be able to see what plants are already growing in these conditions, and that will inform you as to what sort of plants you might be able to grow. But generally, in low light conditions, you need to plant things for their edible leaves, and roots. And you'll need access to water.


4

I cannot grow Redbuds but according to Michael Dirr's book they will tolerate partial shade. As they grow under the canopy of larger trees in the forest the vigor and amount of flower will be in direct proportion to the amount of light. You have a better chance of getting reasonable performance if the oaks leaf out after the redbud has finished. You would ...


4

Conditions. Shading the second floor requires taller trees (dooohhh, I know) NMOsZ "vicious sun" 2-5pm photo indicates that BVFcU photo is nearer to midday. BVFcU shows downspout (gutter drop, leaders, whatever) extenders. The driveway itself looks well-graded. The grade near the house looks too flat, IMO. OTOH, your soil looks like coarser loam or "dirty"...


4

White clover is a good green manure for shade and will grow in low nitrogen, compacted soil. Generally, compacted soil is lacking in calcium and will need lime or gypsum.


4

For a completely different approach have you considered planting a hop (humulus lupulus) a half-hardy perennial, grows VERY rapidly to about 8metres and then dies away to nothing in fall, and then comes away again in the spring - you do have to clean up the mess, but it composts easily - you would need a frame for it to climb on but this is not difficult.


4

This question is a little old (2 years at this writing), but it has been viewed over 1400 times and I think I can add to it. Tulip tree is a VERY tall and straight tree. It doesn't sprawl out much and wouldn't be much of a shadetree. It is wood the native Americans used to build canoes. It can reach over 150ft tall. You don't want a tulip tree in a ...


4

You don't say where you are, but some general answers: Mosses and ferns. Perhaps you have too many where you are, but this is probably what I'd go for here in N.Texas. Some all round verdant green! Bog plants are another answer. ("make lemonade" and all that). Which bog plants would depend on your location, but if you want some novelty, then carnivorous ...


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