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When you are dealing with plants which are going to end up in containers anyway you absolutely could opt to seed them into those containers indoors and then later move the containers outside once you've hardened off the plants. They might turn out just fine that way and I'd absolutely encourage you to try that - seeing what works is part of the fun of ...
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Depends how big they are - if the ground is damp and they're no taller than, say, 6-10 inches, you should be able to pull them up. If the ground isn't damp, make sure it is when you attempt this. If they've been there longer (since last year or more) then you need to dig them out and repair the grass afterwards.
If they've been there much longer and are ...
11
My experience is different. It is very easy to have a apple tree from seed.
But apple trees are not auto-fertile. This mean that to have apple on a tree, you need pollen from an other trees (and other varieties). There are tables about which varieties could pollinate which other variety, so different variety is not always enough. To complicate things, you ...
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Looks like pumpkin, Vivid. You don't remember what you sowed?
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That looks like fine root hairs on the hypocotyl of a normal , healthy seedling still in the cotyledon stage.
These root hairs greatly increase the surface area of the root and are thought to aid in nutrient absorption, anchorage and microbial interactions.
Edit: It does look like the root has pushed the seedling out of the medium though (maybe they are ...
9
I'd say the stress of replanting is causing this non-growth. Small damages to roots and new type of soil. The seedlings need to recover.
I'd be patient.
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They look far too thin and spindly, which probably means they are not getting enough light. If they are indoors, they are probably also too warm in a heated house, and watering "every day" seems much too frequent.
Remember these things are TREES. They can germinate and survive out of doors, in whatever conditions the climate throws at them. They don't ...
9
You don't need any fertiliser at all to start with - the clue is in the word 'starter'. You're only meant to germinate the seeds, then wait till they have 2/3 sets of leaves (one cotyledon pair and one true leaves), at which point you move them into individual pots containing probably seed and cutting compost - then move them up into potting compost in ...
9
I'm by no means an expert, however I am pretty sure that, at least for Zucchini, Cucumber and peppers 1% more light = 1% more growth. Thus in order to increase growth, maybe you should start moving these into full sun.
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I planted some Oxalis deppei in the garden at my university last year and it looked just like your plant. It had little dark pink flowers and spread like crazy, from 15 bulbs planted in spring I got at least 50 bulbs in autumn, including smaller ones. This was on a rocky small area that somewhat contained them.
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It happens occasionally - not uncommon in chilli pepper, tomatoes and cannabis plants. It doesn't seem to confer any advantage and usually, the seedling continues to grow normally, with two true leaves when they appear, although occasionally, three true leaves appear and you get a more branched plant, albeit usually slower growing and not so tall. Just one ...
8
I take a bit of a different approach than J. Musser does (and here I am making an assumption based on the answer), but I agree with that approach when adding commercial fertilizer. Bagged fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) can be quite hard on young seedlings. J. Musser didn't specifically state the use of commercial fertilizer in that answer, but I believe that ...
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Try removing the bag a little at a time over the period of several days so the seedling can acclimate to the unprotected environment. It's going to be just like hardening off any plant.
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All plants should have pots matching the plant size, otherwise you risk root-bound plants or trouble with watering. That's why we re-pot as needed and only go up a few pot sizes at a time.
Roses like to go deep with their roots, so I would aim for a pot of ca. 5 cm / 2 inches height right now, once the seedling is established, take it from there.
...
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The sunchoke, also frequently called Jerusalem artichoke, is a species called H. Tuberosus, in the Helianthus genus of Asteraceae, which is a large plant family that includes sunflowers and daisies. Even though it grows from a tuber root rather than a seed, the plant when it emerges looks very much like any other flower in that group.
The Ohio Perennial ...
answered May 1 '16 at 4:08
Sue Saddest Farewell TGO GL
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8
Think of how tomatoes grow "in the wild" fruit drops to the ground, slowly rots, and when conditions are right a new plant emerges. So cut open the fruit and cover it in soil, the results are not surprising.
I don't see why this method wouldn't work for people who just want a "tomato". The types of people that will save seeds from store bought tomatoes and ...
7
It will help to find what variety you have, as some varieties need much wider spacing than others.
Here is an idea of what you are looking for via spacing:
2-3' tall matured: Space 10-14" apart
3-4' tall matured: Space 12-18" apart
4-6' tall matured: Space 14-24" apart
6-8' tall matured: Space 16-30" apart
8-12' tall matured: Space 20-36" apart
12'-up: ...
7
Some say vitamin B1 (thiamin) is supposed to help for transplant shock. Thiamin contains sulfur; so, maybe that has something to do with it. If sulfur has anything to do with it, Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) may help. Peppers are supposed to appreciate a certain amount of Epsom salt (diluted a lot, of course). After googling it, I see a recommendation for ...
7
Disclaimer: This answer is mostly based off of my own experience.
Yes. That appears to be classic transplant shock. As Ecnerwal said, it could be cutworms, too, though. Anything that disturbs (or removes) the roots could cause this. When you transplant seedlings, if the roots are damaged or disturbed, then light (particularly sunlight) can make them wilt ...
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Put the seed in a pot (if you want it potted) and put the pot in the ground; or plant directly in the ground. Wait for spring.
The seeds require "cold treatment" - they are programmed not to sprout until they have experienced "winter" since seeds that sprout in fall lead to dead seedlings. The above method is the simple way to get that. If you like, you can ...
7
The trouble with introducing 'life' by inoculating with garden soil is you have no control over which life forms you are introducing, and some of them might be pathogenic when contained inside a pot or grow bag. That is why there are commercially produced potting composts, to avoid that risk. Some people actually grow plants in soil they've dug from the ...
7
Do they prefer it? No, not really. Plants have evolved to grow and orient themselves to get the most light in any given conditions. It could even be argued that turning them away from this orientation reduces their overall light exposure to some degree (while they re-orient again), but the overall effect is likely negligible.
But there is another reason to ...
7
Your plants will have to compete with each other for light, and root space. Because they are so packed and crowded, none of the plants will grow optimal this way. If you just want basil cress, you can harvest already, but if you want real and healthy basil plants you need to trim (or pull) away most of it. I think you have to leave 1-2 cm between plants at ...
6
I invented the Potta System - the frames make newspaper tubes of three different diameters at any depth very quickly. I've been using nothing but this for around ten years and the tubes don't fall apart and plants thrive as there is no bottom to the tubes. I found that making pots by wrapping newspaper round something and folding in the bottom resulted in ...
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In the mid-ninties (probably '94), I planted several grapefruit seeds. Several germinated, and they all got some white fuzzy stuff on them that made them sticky, and all but one of them died (maybe it was scale or something). The one that lived recovered, and I didn't see the white sticky stuff again until about twenty years later (but there wasn't very much ...
6
Looks like a nitrogen deficiency as is seen here. There are no other signs of typical citrus problems such as iron manganese deficiency which gives dark veins and lighter leaf area.
Some of this may be the soil mix. I see lots of shredded bark which, when combined with a moist soil, could be taking up nitrogen that the citrus roots would otherwise use.
...
6
I used to suffer from this when the squirrels buried acorns in my lawn. I found that just mowing them down regularly (with routine lawn maintenance) kept them from becoming established.
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On most crop plants, I give them the first fertilizing at the three-leaf stage. This is when the first three leaves (not counting the cotyledons) reach full size. By this time, the root system has matured enough to handle the fertilizer, and the plant has also used up the reserves from the seed.
I generally use a lighter feeding at first maybe a 2/3's ...
6
Yes, Moss grows leaves. They are simple leaves 1 cell thick, and they grow on a thin stem. Moss plants have no vascular tissue, so water and nutrients can only travel through the plant by diffusion. This limits the size moss plants can grow, and also makes them prone to drying out, so the largest moss plants are only found in constant moist.
As for the ...
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You can do that, but not for more than a couple days, before giving them light again. You don't want to see any signs of etiolation, or you will have to 'harden off' the plants back into light. If you have to hold them longer than that, try to find some better lighting, indirect sunlight or a bright fluorescent or LED bulb. Even if it's cold, the darkness ...
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