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8

There is so much genetic variation in the genus Prunus that each seed will produce a different tree and the only way to be sure of the outcome of the fruit is to grow clones from a mother plant. Based on the size of those fruits I'd say it's probably a seed grown individual and you won't find any like it. The good news, however, is that anything in the ...


6

If you get blossoms but no fruit, I found with my cherry tree that this can be caused by sparrows pecking at the flower centers, stopping the tree from fruiting. I put sparkle tape around the branches and hung CDs off the branches. It has worked because I have tonnes of cherries every year; I made 24 jars of jam with them, nicest jam ever. I'm having the ...


6

Some plums are inedible, from having too high a level of cyanide in the fruit. Sometimes they will also have high levels of oxalic, malic, and tartaric acid that cause inedibility. All those things you can taste, so if it's not bitter, or super sour, and it tastes like your average plum, it's going to be safe. Just make sure they are completely ripe and soft ...


6

As you're not in the States, you won't have a 'phytosanitary seller'. This is commonly known as brown rot in the UK, and is pretty common - sets in usually as a secondary infection following damage to the fruits, usually from plum moth or birds pecking at them. Select one of the less affected fruits, cut it in half and see if you can find a sort of tunnel ...


6

It looks like Monilinia laxa but it can be M. fructicola or M. fructigena (all from fungi kingdom). Why I opted for M. laxa?: Because the gummy secretions in your picture. By geographical location. I'm not familiar with the common english names of diseases... but I have been reading about "brown rot" quoted by Bamboo in her answer and basically there are ...


6

Knowing nothing about your particular plum variety, or growing conditions, I will simply report that I have had 5 Japanese plums of 3 varieties for 21 years. For 20 years the harvest was 0, 1, or 2 plums (for all 5 trees) more or less. The deer and chipmunks got a few more, some split, etc. Last year, there were 50+ pounds harvestable. This was not a ...


5

Yes, but the fruit might not be the best. Plums that bear tasty fruit are usually grafted into a different variety rootstock that is selected for having better root vigor and/or resistance to soil pathogens that the desired fruiting tree may lack. Peach is also used for a plum rootstock sometimes. It is unlikely that a 'flowering' variety that cannot bear ...


5

Looks like chocolate slime mold... Seriously... Also known as Stemonitopsis. It is normally feeding on dead trees, so I don't think it is causing your tree problems. If parts of your trees are dead (which they feed on) it has probably another cause.


4

The top and outside of the leaf canopy on most trees is what gets the most sunlight, so those are the areas that normally do the best, while the lower areas slowly become "over topped" by the more vigorously growing branches in what you've labeled the "top zone." This is how most trees end up with the typical tree form of bare trunks and bare larger ...


4

I have a plum tree (not a Victoria but a similar variety). After about 4 years in the ground (I planted it as a 2/3-year-old fan) I had a single plum. The next year I had several kilogrammes. Since then nothing for about 5 years -- not even blossom -- until this year, when I got loads of blossom and the fruit are starting to grow. My pruning has been ...


4

It seems a wild Prunus domestica (plum). "Wild" this time means probably grown by core of cultivated plums (or just few generation from such cultivated plum). I have several of this "wild" varieties, and one is very dark and branches and leaves redish. Unfortunately I never get ripe fruits. But to be sure, did you remember the flowers? I would expect ...


4

Your tree is a very, very old lady - average productive life span for a plum tree is around 10-20 years, though it obviously varies between individuals and many go on for longer, getting more gnarly as they do, see here https://www.hunker.com/12272347/fruit-tree-life-expectancy But 50 years and still fruiting well is quite remarkable, although it is not ...


3

This is not looking good - the photograph appears to be showing an area on the main trunk, but it's not clear whether this area is near the base of the plant or much higher up, though I suspect it's the latter (near the base). If it's high up, then remove back to healthy wood, but if this wound is towards the bottom of the tree, and the same issue is ...


3

From your question, and the answers in comments, it seems it's not clear how many plants were supplied, but it seems to be three. Whether they're all the same or not is hard to say at this stage, but you should assume they are. One of them seems to be a non starter, and as you're keeping them in a pot, I'd be inclined to remove the one that's not doing ...


3

I think it is nearly dead. Probably it didn't have enough strength to properly build roots.


3

Cut the tree and burn the wood, otherwise the disease might spread to other plants. Edit: The reality is that The tree's life will be shorter than the life of a healthy tree. The disease is spreading, according to the OP. The reserve of pathogens builds up. In this case, I would try to minimise the risk to other plants in the garden and that's why I said ...


3

Three years is very young for a plum tree. I know many nurseries will tell you that their plants will begin to bear fruit in 3-5 years, but in my experience, 6-7 is more likely. It is also not uncommon for an immature tree to flower for a year or two but set no fruit. I'm afraid the only thing you can do with a young fruit tree is wait. While I'm quite ...


3

The easiest method is to chemically thin the flowers with one of the products available on the market. Edit: The substances are sprayed on the flowers when the tree is 80% in bloom and about half of them won't set fruit, or are sprayed on the fruitlets when they have a maximum diameter of 10 mm, after which the fruitlets fall.


3

I have two Santa Rosa plum trees and they produced hundreds of blossoms but no fruit last year and this year. The stems of the blossoms and the blossoms themselves turned brown and fell off. I was told by a gardener that I did not water the trees enough. I watered them the same amount as I watered my peach trees but plums need more water than peaches.


3

It's one of the slime moulds in its sporangium stage (most likely Enteridium lycoperdon) and unfortunately, its presence indicates that either your tree is dead, or is on its way out, for they usually appear on dead wood rather than live. They exist on the bacteria and fungal organisms found on dead or dying wood - it should shortly change appearance and ...


2

Twisted, you've said some of the blossom remains, withered, on the tree, even with some of it starting to produce fruitlets - the likely cause of this problem is Blossom Wilt, a fungal infection, which may overwinter on the tree in infected stems or foliage. By this time you may (or may not) have a little dieback on some leaves, twigs and branches here and ...


2

You live in an area where the fall typically has a few weeks of rain and night time temperatures get gradually colder. You don't have to do anything now except watch out for any squirrels who may think you have buried some large nuts. A clay pot or some chicken wire will stop them from investigating. In the spring watch for sprouts. At this time I would ...


2

As you've described the blossoms 'all dried up into dead clumps', I'm assuming those clumps remain on the tree. If that's the case, your tree is probably suffering from Blossom Wilt, a fungal infection. Treatment involves spraying with copper oxychloride (if that's available where you are) just before flowering - next year, now of course. In the meantime, ...


2

If your tree is in your lawn perhaps the high nitrogen fertilizer used for the lawn has told your plum to put out vegetative growth versus reproductive growth...?


2

I'd like to ask how you pruned it - plums fruit on year old and older wood, so if you took off quite a lot of growth, you may well have removed the wood which would have flowered/fruited this year. Pruning of a fan trained plum is quite specific and rated as 'moderate' in the difficulty of pruning table, so is that a possible answer? Even if it is, that ...


2

No treatment at all. Leave it alone. No staking either. Half the vascular system is still viable. I would THIN your tree so wind is able to go through the branches without being stopped and able to pull your tree over. What is more problematic are those vines. I'd like to see the base of your tree's trunk. Are those vines covering it up? Is there ...


2

White leaves on plants usually occurs because of cold - you say its been unseasonably warm, but have you had no cold nights at all? A windowsill can be a chilly place to be overnight... Otherwise, get a magnifying glass and uncurl the leaves as gently as possible, inspecting closely, in case it's been invaded by plum aphid - they're smaller than other ...


2

To keep the tree small you need to summer prune. All new growth can that is cut back to one leaf bud or more will still fruit. You can also do scoring. ( you can research that on google)


2

The visible signs here are indicative of a canker disease; the infection enters through a wound on branches, perhaps high in the tree, which contaminates the sap transporting tissues in the tree. These tissues become unable to feed nutritious sap to these branches which quickly dry out and the infection rapidly works its way lower, inside the tree, towards ...


2

In the UK, the recommended time for pruning plum trees is April or July, but definitely not at other times because of the risk of silverleaf disease. I'm not sure that is canker, and its definitely not bacterial canker at the moment because there's no sign of dampness or oozing from the area. However, the bark has gone for a reason and that area will be ...


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