New answers tagged plant-care
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With a sharp knife gently scrape away a tiny bit of bark on one of the twigs (hold the blade at right angles to the bark - be gentle!). If you see green, the tree is still alive. If you see brown, try another twig. Green is alive, brown is dead. You can always practice this on another shrub in your garden that you know is alive.
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A general purpose fertiliser such as Growmore will do no harm,though it is unlikely to help with the current issue because, unless you've been having lots of rain quite often and it's good and wet, the more likely problem is water. Although any new planting requires watering, more mature shrubs in particular require a great deal of watering and frequently,...
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I don't see the harm. I know most root ball soil from garden centers come with some slow release granules, but I have always thrown some 10-10-10 into the base of the hole as well as some into the filler mix when planting new shrubs and trees. In fact, I just did it this past week.
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Some shade is better. The reason being that while Hibiscus sabdariffa enjoys a long period of heat while growing and maturing, like all seedlings it has to go through a vulnerable stage where the radicle and shoot emerge and need to be kept moist otherwise they can dry out. As always avoid keeping the soil wet since this can encourage rot which is made worse ...
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In shade - seedlings will just shrivel and keel over rapidly in full sun, you need to wait till they are little plants and growing well before giving them sunlight, and then do it gradually.
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Zinnias are rather care free and grow without much fuss. There are many factors that could be at play here.
My guess is your growing media. It looks to be heavy and that causes the seedling to essentially suffocate. I'd say to ditch the river silt. Do a 5:1 mix of compost to coco coir. I'd actually recommend perlite instead of coco coir instead if you can ...
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This could be collar rot. Overhead watering too much water are factors. It's fungal.
According to the link you can try to build up soil around the lesion early in the process. Alternatively, you could try to cut some way above the lesion and replant the top of the plant. You'll find lot of materials online on how to grow from cuttings.
If it's fungal don't ...
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This is a classic example of damping off. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damping_off
This process probably began when your seedling was very young.
In general, young seedlings need very little water. You want to keep the soil moist but not saturated. When in doubt, don't water.
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I imagine it was not originally this color and was much closer to the one remaining part that looks like a tan/yellowy green ball?
I do not know much about cacti specifically, but the dramatic color change is very disturbing. This article gives a few different causes and a few possible remedies. It is looking rather bleak for your cacti, especially since I'm ...
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I have only accomplished one season of tomato growing, but I feel fairly confident in saying that the problem is over-watering made worse by the pot and soil. I have included several links detailing other potential reasons for the wilting and yellow leaves. I would think as you work to remedy the water situation it would become increasingly clear if over-...
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It's impossible to tell which Geranium that is, other than it is a true cranesbill Geranium. Most Geraniums grow well in spring and early summer, but at some point, usually around June or July in the UK, the growth collapses outwards. At that point, it's usually possible to see new growth in the centre, small leaves appearing, and that is when you cut off ...
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We note that the spots are tiny, circular and fairly widely spaced. We also know that basil has a soft leaf and is vulnerable to attack from both upper and lower leaf surfaces. If it was a fungus we would expect larger patches and some sort of residue on the leaf, so I think we can rule out this type of disease. Looking at insects we can note that some ...
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