10

Sure! You can reseed that. Wait till the ground is going to stay drained.Grass will germinate and grow fast in wet conditions, but then if you walk through, or mow, it will lie down and rot. Because there is loose soil there already, when you're ready to reseed you could simply Rake over the area briskly to looses the top layer of soil, even it out, and ...


9

Dormant Overseeding! Read about it. Do it. I live in Ohio and the freeze thaw cycle that heaves the ground up and down pulls the seed down into it for great soil contact. Followed by wet springs... bingo. I overseed just before Christmas every year and my suburban lawn is the envy of the neighborhood. I don't think the seed will germinate until ...


8

I always dethatch first. That will create a clearer path for the other equipment, and make it a lot easier for the slicer overseeder. As for the other two, I like to run the aerator first, to avoid disturbing newly sown seed. It can be done either way, and both ways I've noticed seed falling into the aerator holes, where it will not germinate. That doesn't ...


7

Well it all depends on what kind of lawn you want and the effort you want to put into it. If your ambition is to have Perfect grass: perfectly flat, no weeds, no dead spots then over seed twice a year, every year. This keeps the turf thick, helps out compete weeds and doesn't take very long to do. If you don't care so much then just over seed in the ...


6

Short answer, no, because that looks like a typical neglected UK garden to me, seen plenty like this in my time ... though I could be wrong! Assuming it is a UK garden, the procedures required are somewhat different from that already recommended in another answer. If your 'lawn' has had no attention for over a year, including not being cut, that's why it ...


6

Your plants will have to compete with each other for light, and root space. Because they are so packed and crowded, none of the plants will grow optimal this way. If you just want basil cress, you can harvest already, but if you want real and healthy basil plants you need to trim (or pull) away most of it. I think you have to leave 1-2 cm between plants at ...


6

If the "lawn" is more weed than grass, I would kill everything and start over. If you take that option, Ortho is the wrong product because it isn't supposed to kill grass. A review on Amazon.com implies that the instructions say you can't use Ortho on a newly seeded lawn for 4 weeks, so it would be sensible to wait 4 weeks after using it before reseeding. ...


5

You would not want to overseed right now in Denver as there would not be enough time for the seeds to germinate and the new grass establish. But seeding early enough in the fall gives the grass a head start at a time when many broad leaf weeds and crabgrass, which would normally compete with grass for resources, are going dormant or dying. Come spring, the ...


5

There are three different ways to propagate this plant - if the clump is very large, you can dig it up in spring, split it and replant the section/s. Otherwise, you can try semi ripe cuttings, in mid to late summer, from non flowering shoots, some instructions in the link below http://www.garden.org/regional/report/arch/inmygarden/200 Otherwise, collect ...


4

The pre-emergent used in that product is Pendimethalin (3,4-Dimethyl-2,6-dinitro-N-pentan-3-yl-aniline), and its mode of action is microtubule assembly inhibition in very immature plant shoots (In other words, it inhibits microtubules, the structures which pull cells apart in cell division (mitosis), thus shutting down growth). This is the same mode of ...


4

The soil quality looks okay. Because you already seeded, I'd say just keep it damp until germination. It's pretty simple. If you want, you can fertilize with something suitable for young grass before winter (lower nitrogen requirement, and preferably accessible calcium). I use 6-12-6 + Solu-Cal. This step isn't entirely necessary, but gets the new grass ...


3

Just to throw my 2 cents in on this old thread that someone may find like I did, don't forget to water the weed seeds. This is a hard lesson I learned converting an old field into wildflowers. An applications of glyphosate would kill the plants the spray touched, but those plants were sheltering seeds and seedlings under them, which took off once the ...


3

Sure- when you start stacking seed on seed, so some seeds don't have ground contact, it's clearly too much.


3

The time out period will be listed on the label but is commonly six weeks or more. With the climate changing quickly and causing ground temperatures to rise you have to be diligent to apply at the right time, too late does no good. From this professional in Georgia Crabgrass seed, you see, germinates when spring soil temperatures tend upwards from 50 ...


2

The amount of seed for a new lawn would be between 1/2 and 1 ounce per square yard. High-quality ornamental turf needs a higher seeding rate than a lower quality "general purpose" lawn. The amount you need to overseed depends on how much grass is there already. The best time of year is probably in the fall, when the soil is still warm enough for quick ...


2

Truly not a bad program. BUT. It is a waste of time to core aerate until you've got a mature crop of grass. So cross that one off. The other thing that pops out is the excavation of the soil. The very top 4" is the soil you want to use. The subsoil is (NW) almost pure clay and to mix that up into your top soil would be asking for tons more work. I'd ...


2

OK, let me give this a shot. First, I'd love to get a feel for how compacted those dormant areas are. It WAS a difficult summer in the northeast (of the USA), and compacted area suffered particularly. If it is compacted, you can reseed every year and always have the same problems. You might run a core aerator through there just in case. I like to aerate any ...


2

If your lawn is almost ALL crabgrass then glyphosate or roundup is indicated. This is absorbed by the foliage and taken down into the roots where the KILL happens. Takes at least 3 weeks. Perhaps a second application. Read that label 5 times I kid you NOT. That is what they taught us as Pesticide Applicators. Five times!! Do not spray in any wind, ...


2

The seed isn't going to germinate and grow unless it's in contact with some soil (not a layer of dead matted grass) and the seed is not disturbed until its own roots can hold it in place. "Aggressive" watering can wash the seed around, and therefore do more harm than good if you are watering several times a day. It might be better to give the lawn a very ...


1

I am assuming you have cool season lawn grasses. Thatch is not a problem with 365 days of warmth for decomposition. Overseeding is not a regular, normal process for lawns...cool season lawns. Without proper preparation, the correct seed mix, being able to water tiny areas within a huge body of lawn...seed needs a consistently just so moist soil or ...


1

Ummmm, are you asking about that center pot? Your donut shaped plants should be transplanted into 6" pots with potting soil only. Dump the whole pot and donut out of the main pot, using serrated knife, carve a chunk about an inch wide of that donut, and put in its new pot. Lightly plant the roots in the new potting soil, add (balanced fertilizer) give ...


1

I would core aerate now and allow the plugs to disintegrate. September I would mow my lawn down short so the grass won't be shading the seed. Short as in 2". Top dress with 1/2" of topsoil, not compost. There are topsoils with compost added. But a word of warning; you have no idea what is in that compost. I've run into topsoil with added compost where I ...


1

Use Scott's weed and feed to begin with. In late March spread as much sand as possible. Sand tightens the grass up and suffocates the weeds.


1

I doubt this answer will be welcome, but it needs saying anyway! I don't advise you should follow the course of action you've proposed - it sounds as if you've got mostly weeds and a bit of grass left, which would mean removing what's there and replacing it. I'm not sure where you are, and I know that even 200 sq feet is quite a space, but really, you ...


1

You don't overseed the lawn, you let it grow long (say 6 inches), then cut it back drastically (say 3 inches), but not so drastically that it will kill it off (say 1.5 inch), because if you do that the grass can evaporate from the surface a lot quicker than the grass can take it in. It will fill in the gaps that are in the grass, and you won't need to do ...


1

This reference claims that The degradation of 2,4-D is rapid (half life of 6.2 days) in aerobic mineral soils This reference claims Most of the time, 2,4-D breaks down in soil so that half of the original amount is gone in 1-14 days. If you follow the references it is very difficult to find a clear statement of how long it lingers. Note the ...


1

Forget about amending the soil, or using pesticides to kill weeds, Duane. The best next step for you is to rent a 'sod cutter' from an equipment rental store. Easy peasy to use, cheap and it will cut out all of the soil and weed crowns like now. 2" deep...or 1 1/2 inches. These pieces of sod make valuable soil for plant beds. Just pile them up upside down ...


1

This is a complex subject, soil management. I took a course for "master gardener" from the U of Oregon which was one of the better things I ever did. This then brings us face to face with soils and the problems of soils. First get a good soil test kit from a hardware store and find out what additives you will need. Then till in the additives to a depth of ...


1

If you're seeding in the spring you need to wait until soil temperature is at least 50-65 degrees before most grasses will germinate effectively. Even though daytime temperatures may be in the correct range the soil will take time to warm up. Edit to answer comment and updated temperature: At this point in the season you've missed the opportunity to reap ...


1

Hate to be the bearer of bad news. The soil is too high on the fence. No soil should be within 2-4" of the bottom. It is too bumpy as well. I'd get a sod cutter and cut that sod out of there completely...there is way too much organic debris(matted roots) to grow a healthy lawn right now. Get the sod removed (save it for plant beds!!), rebuild the fence ...


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