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To understand the needs of any house plant, you need to take a closer look at its natural habitat. In our homes, we try to mimic those conditions as well as we can and breeders have been working hard at developing cultivars of very sensitive plants that will thrive under less-than-ideal conditions, aka. your living room. Just see the many orchids that are ...


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It does look like a very young plant, which makes it harder to tell exactly, especially with varieties of M. adansonii. It definitely looks like a Monstera adansonii var. laniata or just Monstera laniata for short. However, it could be just the Monstera adansonii var. friedrichsthalii AKA Narrow Form adansonii or Monstera acuminata, just because it is a ...


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No - sealants or wound paints are not recommended because they increase the risk of infection rather than reduce it. The sap which is bleeding out will eventually stop and the wound should callous over naturally.


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That's an aerial root. Monsteras are climbers; they grow aerial roots to grab onto trees or other structures to support themselves. It's a normal thing for a Monstera plant to do, and generally means it's happy and growing as it's supposed to. If you hate the way it looks you can trim it off. But you don't need to; it's perfectly fine for the plant to just ...


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Just cut it - the plant will learn that's not where roots should go and it'll stop.


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The only way that is an aerial root is if the point of origin is from a node on the topgrowth, with the aerial root located downwards into the soil in the pot, where it has continued to grow as a subterranean-aerial root. If there is no evidence of this when you look at the top growth,then it's simply a thicker subterranean root. Either way, turn it out ...


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These are fungal toadstool growths, specifically, Leucocoprinus bimbaumii; they're not uncommon in houseplant soil, though are usually more likely to appear during summer, and in particular, if the soil mix the plant is in is soil-less. They will cause no harm at all to the plant or you, so long as you don't eat them, so they don't require any treatment at ...


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It's probably nothing much to worry about, characteristic of the compost the plant is growing in and perhaps a bit too much watering. Please see if the answers and comments in this similar post are helpful and if so vote up the exchange there as you see fit.


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The leaves will get bigger and more perforated as it gets older. It looks like it is still a baby! They don't need lots of light, but they do need reasonably high temperatures to grow well, so your window may be too cold at night. They also like high humidity. I would try and untangle two or three of the strongest looking stems without damaging them, and ...


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There is a difference between whether you can and whether you should. Large old monstera's are always sprawling. It's just the nature of the plant. See here for this plant can grow to over 30 ft (9.1 m) in many cases If you put the cuttings with their small undeveloped root systems they will not be able to compete with the larger plant. You are ...


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My initial reaction is too much water, too little light. That pot can not possibly have a drainage hole if you feel comfortable enough to set it on this furniture. Without drainage, a hole, no rocks at the bottom of the soil making a perched water table, water will not be 'pulled' out of the soil being replaced with air. Allowed to 'dry' out enough to not ...


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It sounds/looks like your plant has a fungal leaf spot problem. The little black spots are called fruiting centers. That is where the fungus creates and sends out new fungal spores to infect other parts of the leaf and spread to new leaves. Stop scraping off the black spots! You are only helping new fungal spores to get airborne. Fungus problems can often ...


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Plant seems to be in excellent health. Bright glossy leaves, good colour, new shoots healthy and vigorous, it is in the pink of youth and doing well. Occasional spots on leaves likely due to mechanical damage (knock, pinch) when the leaf was young, tender and fragile, nothing to worry about. Keep doing what you are doing and move to new pot when it starts to ...


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Generally if the water is changed regularly, weekly for example, the plant should be fine for months in water. Note that plants tend to grow different roots in different mediums, if it gets used to water it will be harder for it to adjust to soil when transplanted. Typically this means that you would have to keep the soil moist, watering more frequently than ...


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As mentioned, you could just cut it but while it is still short I usually try to guide it back inside the pot. Other option is that you could just leave it, although it has a higher risk of rotting and that could spread inside. If there is enough room and air under the pot it could be fine though.


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In principle you do not have to worry, your Monstera will not suffer any damage because roots come out of the pot. At least not in the short term. In any case, it is good to analyze if it is an aerial root or a simple underground root. In general, if the root is coming out of a lower hole in the pot, as I can see in the attached photograph, it is an ...


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Your plant's stems seem quite upright but the plant itself seems slightly droopy. Hard to tell for sure, but if the plant really needs water that would help to raise the leaves a bit. In general with the long petioles the leaves will most of the time have a curve in them, bending down due to the weight of the leaf itself. To manage it the most effective way ...


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Usually Aroids such as Monstera deliciousa puts out one leaf at a time and do not really have energy to put out multiple leaves at the same time on the same stem. For some reason yours has started to put out two leaves but it did not have enough energy to finish both of them. Such new leaf browning, withering could occur in case of overwatering or due to ...


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Rooting cuttings not always yields a 100% success rate. There can be losses due to rot or other conditions that persisted even before the cuttings were taken. In your case I think the problem is related to the fact of winter. Lower light and probably lower humidity conditions are not ideal for propagation. A plant without roots will struggle to keep its ...


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I would suggest: change the water more often, use de chlorinated water if available provide more light when there are roots, take a straight edge razor and cut the tip off, this will cause more roots to grow


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Sorry to disappoint you, but a leaf node is a must. An internode alone won't help. There is a chance a bare cutting may sprout a new branch with leaves, but this can take place only at the node.


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Monstera Deliciosa are an interesting plant in the wild. They start out as terrestrial plants, but become epiphytic with time. Their seeds fall down to the ground, where the take root. The plant will crawl across the ground to the first tree. At that point it will 'climb' up the side of the tree. They can grow as tall as the tree 50', so they use ...


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If it's still in the pot you bought it in, you very likely need to pot it on into something larger by now. I can't see the size of pot clearly in the photo, but it does look as if the ratio of topgrowth is far greater than the size of pot. These plants prefer dappled sunlight or partial shade - direct sun is not appreciated. Hard to say what the brown areas ...


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The first action is to take a cotton swab with warm water, wipe gently and carefully to see if the marks are purely on the surface of the leaf. The marks look like they are spaced out in an orderly manner which kind of indicates a spraying with water containing iron in suspension which has simply dried in place. The second action is to review a previous ...


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This looks a lot like the typical virus/fungus/bacteria infection brought about by being too wet in low light. The indicators are: a necrotic or dead spot surrounded by the next phase of growth where the leaf is dying back problem first appears on the older growth located in random areas on several leaves Most plants can outgrow this if the conditions are ...


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