Hot answers tagged

12

No, you shouldn't interfere with them or damage them in any way, you may compromise the tree if you do. If possible, remove the grass that's near the roots, plant ground cover instead or just mulch around the roots.


10

All tap holes injure maple trees. Extensive research into spile-hole damage (with an eye to reducing it, and preserving productivity) is precisely what has driven the downsizing of spiles. Few producers (essentially no serious ones) use even the 7/16 size currently. The area of damaged wood (which cannot produce sap in the future, until the tree has ...


10

The structural problems that silver maples usually have include: included bark narrow crotch angles a tendency when grown in urban conditions to grow wider than taller a shallow root system If you consistently trim the width over the next four or five years to promote vertical growth and you remove any branches with narrow angles or included bark you can ...


10

There are a lot of factors that affect lifespan for all trees: If you live in an old growth forest that has never been logged larger maples can live well over 200 years. If you live in an urban environment in USDA zones 3 to 7 Norway maple 100 years (Invasive in some areas and does not play well with others) Red maple 100 years Silver maple 100 years (...


9

I'm sorry to say it will hurt the tree - over time, as they mature, many trees develop buttress roots at their base, but upheaval around the base of a tree, even without buttress roots, is to be expected. The roots are essential to the tree's survival, and should not be cut, shaved or removed. Perhaps you could replan the walkway to leave space around the ...


7

Far better to mulch the area or otherwise remove it from mowing. A huge tree is a huge issue when it's in trouble, and cutting roots is very likely to cause trouble, as the tree depends on the supplies from those roots, their physical support, etc.


7

First get an arborist, one who is familiar with your locale and can have hands on expert examination. It is obviously an old maple. Everything declines before it dies of old age but while it declines it is very susceptible to disease, insects. I would take a good handsaw (a narrow pruning saw) and cut that leader (main branch) off right down to the ...


6

Manually thinning of the flowers on a large maple tree to reduce fruiting is dangerous and probably impossible. Setting aside an area under the tree into which the fruit can fall is impractical since the pods can ride a great distance on the slightest breeze. The only means of reducing the fruiting without harming the tree is some kind of chemical thinning. ...


6

This looks a lot like a tiny maple seedling in it's first year, note the cotyledons - the seed leaves, the (in this case long & tongue-shaped) leaves that appear before the true leaves - which are still present. The pictures are a bit blurry, so I can't be absolutely sure but I've seen dozens of these under my Granny's Japanese Maple. Potting up ...


6

I tend to agree about the numbers game. Sugar maples run about 50% viable seed. The most frequent occurrence is that 1 seed of a samara (double wing helicopter) is viable. Your technique of getting seed in spring is valid. The stratification occurred during the winter. I would expect some decline in viability due to mold and insects, but not too much. ...


6

Not everyone treats trees with care. This looks like the kind of damage that would happen if you had a potted or balled and burlapped tree and let it bounce on the gate of a pickup truck once or twice. Or this could be a lawnmower butting against the trunk two or three times. You might think this is trivial but trees deal with wounds differently than ...


6

There is no immediate need to do anything. This tree looks quite healthy. I admit more homeowners like trees with a central leader but this is just a preference and will not affect growth or it's ability to cast shade. Some ideas: roll back the grass for a foot around the base of the tree and add up to 1/2 inch of mulch or compost. Top up annually. Grass ...


6

Yes, it's done. Call in an arborist and a chipper. When you remove the main trunk you will expose the join where the main trunk is weakly attached to the secondaries. This join looks like included bark as described here and is a major hazard. The only reasons not to remove this tree are: it is not near anything that would be damaged if a tree fell on it ...


6

Its removal was definitely warranted, so don't lay awake worrying about it. A tree that size, left to carry on rotting quietly from the bottom up, would one day soon have fallen and been the equivalent of a missile - if it landed on a car or a passer by or a building, the consequences would have been dire. It's unfortunate, but everything has a finite life ...


6

Moss is an opportunist. Spores are everywhere. The moss on the ground is not making the moss on the tree. Moisture (we must be looking at the north side of your tree, yes)? Is all moss needs. I would scrape the moss off the tree...at least in the Y's between branches and trunk. Otherwise, I would not mess with the moss on the ground. Perhaps a thin ...


5

This article indicates that stratification is necessary for Sugar and Red maples but not for Silver Maples. The relevant part for maples whose seed needs stratification is collect immediately upon ripening. Stratification required – sow seed at 0.25-1.00 inches in moist growing medium such as vermiculite, peat moss, or sand for a period of 40-90 days ...


5

Yes, go ahead and plant it. It's actually better for it to be in the ground over winter anyway, as it helps protect the roots. Planting trees in the fall is a common practice, your tree should do just fine. Just make sure it stays well hydrated, until the ground freezes, so you don't get winter burn. A light mulch (~3") of organic matter is beneficial too. ...


5

This is pretty normal and could be a combination of weather / climate change. For instance, this year we have had a much warmer winter season. The "helicopter" in pink could be a nice photograph so enjoy it.


5

If you can pull a bud apart and it is still green inside, then things are looking good. If the buds are dry and brittle and don't show any life inside, then you may have a dead sapling. On the saplings that have branches, if the buds are not looking good, you can gently scrape a bit of bark off of the branch and look for a green layer. In any case, since ...


5

The long split probably is canker, Maples are susceptible to it. The full name of one variety that affects Maples is Eutypella Canker. There are other species specific fungal cankers as well. It's a fungal oozing infection that gets into wounds and kills the cambium layer. I would have a tree professional have a look at it as it will affect the future ...


5

Yes, of course it will hurt the tree - it will be cutting away part of the system that transports water and nutrients to the tree. Often in cases like this it's best to decide that you want the tree, or walkway, and get rid of the one you don't want. Either that or you need to modify the walkway so that it is compatible with the tree, since trying to modify ...


5

The leafs are different. I recognize the difference between them because the pseudoplatanus usually has red petioles (leaf stalks), and the leaf seems a bit darker then platanoides. The leafs of platanoides also seem to be more 'spiky' compared to pseudoplatanus, like more sharper points, and more points. It (platanoides) looks more like the real Platanus ...


5

Yes, it can be corrected by pruning. I'd take the little leader off now right to the trunk. The other will straighten. Leave the lower branches as they feed the trunk and allow the diameter of the trunk to strengthen. They can be cut off later. I am so glad you don't have staking involved. But you have to get that grass and soil away from the trunk at ...


5

If you practice the laws of bonsai, the tree can survive as long as a normal tree in nature. You'll need to keep the plant small, by trimming the branches and roots, so that they will still fit your pot (in the right proportion). In your case, I think you can keep the plant in its pot for another one or two years, before you'll have to trim roots (and ...


5

Yes this is definitely grafted. I have seen this before with Crimson Queen variety, that is the one with slim red leaves (right?). My friend had one as well, and then also it started to get these green leaves on the base of the trunk, which are of another Acer palmatum variety. They usually graft Acers because the clones or cutting poorly root, so they take ...


4

Bonsai is many things to many people. It may have started as finding old plants dwarfed from a tough environment but it is also the practice of dwarfing plants to resemble old plants by restricting root growth, selective pruning and appropriate choice of species. The latter is the question you need to answer. Some species have smaller leaves that are in ...


4

No, maples do not grow symbiotically with Porcini or any ectomycorrhizal species. They only grow with vesicular-arbuscular (VA) mycorrhizal fungi, which do not fruit. While other trees have been innoculated with Porcini, there is little evidence that thees trees eventually produce mishrooms.


4

Keep in mind trees play the numbers game. I am making some numbers up here, but it should still represent reality somewhat. A maple drops say 25,000 seeds, let's say only 1/5th germinate, and only 1/20th of those make it past the first year for whatever reason. After their first year is when the tree has a good chance of making it if it can survive ...


4

Yes, Acer palmatum 'Bloodgood' is a cultivar developed for certain characteristics, one of which is a consistant, deep red. It it usually offered as a grafted plant, and will be more expensive than the straight species (Acer palmatum), which is raised from seed and has genetic variability. If you care enough that you want the cultivar (especially recommended ...


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