12

As a former landscaper my favorite quote to clients was "You can have it fast, good or cheap. Pick two." In this situation I see a few solutions: rent a Bobcat with a toothed bucket and remove all the grass and bumps to a dump bin. Apply six inches of topsoil mix, gently compact and sow grass seed or sod. That's fast and good. top dress spring and fall to a ...


11

I don't think there is a solution to "helping the lawn recover" because in this case it is completely dead. There's no way to have a permanent (air-blocking and sun-blocking for more than 1-2 days) structure on top of lawn co-exist with living lawn. So we're not talking recovery but somehow mitigating the appearance of dead lawn, or avoiding having it die at ...


11

It depends how big they are. For small bumps a roller is very effective, but for larger humps you may need to try one of the following: cut the turf up, peel it back, take out sufficient soil (this is relatively easy to get close to flat...not so easy to get exactly right) take the turf off entirely, flatten all the soil and re-lay the turf (bigger job, but ...


10

The label for this product does not recommend applying grass seed until four weeks after the last application. Once this waiting period is up buy or acquire: a big bag of grass seed suitable for the light and soil in your lawn enough compost or top soil to cover the sparse areas to a depth of 1/4" to 1/2" Then Use a rake to open up the soil. Apply grass ...


10

All you need is a spade and a large plastic bucket like you buy drywall or paint in. This is a variation on a french drain and will not provide relief against the "one in a hundred year storm" but should work for most normal rainfalls. get a clean bucket of about twelve inch (thirty centimeter) diameter remove the bottom mark and remove the top six inches ...


10

Sure! You can reseed that. Wait till the ground is going to stay drained.Grass will germinate and grow fast in wet conditions, but then if you walk through, or mow, it will lie down and rot. Because there is loose soil there already, when you're ready to reseed you could simply Rake over the area briskly to looses the top layer of soil, even it out, and ...


10

How I envy you. To get this plant to grow in my garden I have to buy bulbs and nurture them along. This plant is the yellow trout lily, Erythronium americanum, a native bulb and a real treasure. The best thing to do with these is nothing. They do not transplant well and have specific requirements of moist deciduous woods that are hard to meet. This ...


9

If you have a warm-season lawn, mid-Spring is the ideal time to renovate: * Can my lawn be saved or is it time to dig it up and re-sod? Seeing as you live in the Boston area, I'm 95% certain you would have a cool-season lawn, therefore late-Summer to early-Autumn (Fall) is the ideal time to renovate: What's an organic way to discourage crabgrass from a ...


9

ground prep is crucial for a new lawn. I assume sod was used in the front for appearance and cost, but the new lawn in the back was a starter blanket for lack of "street view" and return on the cost. Nothing beats sod. Period. I worked installs for landscape construction for nearly 7 years and the ROI on the sod was a bit more upfront for less hassle & ...


9

Vinegar acts as a desiccant. It dissolves the protective coating on the leaves of the plant causing it to dry out and die if the temperatures are warm enough. It usually doesn't destroy the roots and sometimes the plant may come back if there is enough energy in the root system. Dandelions have a large taproot which makes them difficult to kill with ...


9

With only a 1/3 of an acre of land I personally would aerate it myself, many rental shops allow you to rent a machine for a day for less than $100. Stay away from the "aeration shoes" though as they only poke a hole into the ground and then compact the soil more. The trick is to remove a plug of sod so that air and water can penetrate. The machine you are ...


9

Dormant Overseeding! Read about it. Do it. I live in Ohio and the freeze thaw cycle that heaves the ground up and down pulls the seed down into it for great soil contact. Followed by wet springs... bingo. I overseed just before Christmas every year and my suburban lawn is the envy of the neighborhood. I don't think the seed will germinate until ...


8

If you are going to water after a period of stress then you need to keep watering it to keep it green during the summer. Grass has no problems going dormant in the summer but the turf opens up for weeds to get a hold. If you want to keep your lawn to a high percentage of grass and low amount of weeds then it needs to be watered during dry periods otherwise ...


8

One should always address the soil before tackling weed and plant issues. I'm a firm believer that good soil = healthy plants = few diseases and little need for chemicals. Every plant has a place in which it likes to grow, due to soil composition and climate. Once we understand and accept this principle, its a matter of deciding how to modify conditions ...


8

One other option would be to work with what you have, rather than trying to drain the water away. You could put in a tree or a bed of plants that can tolerate having wet feet after a rain. They will absorb the water faster than your turf could. I don't know where you live and what plants would be appropriate for your location, but birch, dogwood and iris ...


8

I always dethatch first. That will create a clearer path for the other equipment, and make it a lot easier for the slicer overseeder. As for the other two, I like to run the aerator first, to avoid disturbing newly sown seed. It can be done either way, and both ways I've noticed seed falling into the aerator holes, where it will not germinate. That doesn't ...


8

I think you'd be better off (less TOTAL work) just filling in the holes gradually. Put 1/4" of soil in the deepest parts. Level it out with a fairly small rake (back of an actual rakehead or short board.) Wait for growth. Add 1/4" of soil, rake/level with a longer board/rakehead. Wait for growth. Add another 1/4", rake/level with an even longer board. Wait ...


8

You must not use Scotts Weed and Feed formulation now for two reasons - one, you've already applied a weedkiller to the entire lawn, and one of the active ingredients, 2,4D, is present in both formulations, which means you'll be overdosing on the weedkiller front. Second, where you live, your first frost date is early October, so feed should not be applied ...


8

Since you are a renter, I would suggest embracing the moss as a short green groundcover that tolerates the conditions, since grass won't, and as a renter you can't solve the conditions that favor moss over grass growth. If you were not a renter you could (possibly, sometimes even owners don't own the trees that make their lawns shady) remove whatever is ...


8

For the shaded areas try a blend which has high portion of fescue grasses and consider trimming a few branches to reduce the shade. IMHO patch packs are a waste of money. They typically have less than 10% seed, that too fast growing but unimpressive ones and the rest is mulching material. Here in the US, we can buy grass seed packs which contain more than ...


8

My guess is for moles and other critters. If it is true your neighbor wanted no mounds, trees, or other deformities in her lawn, she may have been preventing critters from digging into the yard. So she buried chicken wire to keep moles, rabbits, etc from digging into the lawn. It's hard to determine her rationale. On the other hand she was maybe ...


7

Below quoted information comes from this answer, Can my lawn be saved or is it time to dig it up and re-sod? Lightly water the complete area, you will want to do this daily for the first couple of weeks (assuming you have no rain). After that, water lightly every 2 to 3 days. Basically you don't want the ground drying out. I'm quoting the below couple of ...


7

In principle, sure - as long as it will fit. Most blades are made to similar strength standards. Check very carefully that the hole spacings are correct - and that you can tighten the bolt/bolts fully, as you really don't want a blade flying off at speed.


7

Cover it with hay. That'll keep some from getting on feet/paws. Alternatively, just get some flexible green/orange fencing and prevent the dog from getting in that area. I did a 50 foot roll plus a few 3' ground-stakes for under $30.


7

Thatch is an accumulation of dead organic debris that has not yet been decomposed that builds up between the soil and live grasses. St. Augustine is known for thatch buildup. This buildup blocks water penetration and nutrients. If you can see a 'mat' below your grass and above your soil that is 1" or more you need to use a power rake or manual rake to rip ...


7

First, that looks cheap, to me. I would expect at that price to be getting a half-job, not a high quality one. I think doing it yourself is far better. As Phlume says (rightly), The machine you linked to is a tiller. it will kill the grass that is already there. I use a Plugr Aerator, which will cost over $4500 new. I'd recommend renting. As for whether ...


7

A lawn roller is not intended to be used for flattening out a bumpy lawn - I quote directly here from D. G. Hessayon's The Lawn Expert "the purpose of a roller is to firm the surface of an already smooth lawn. It is totally wrong to use it to iron out bumps - it usually makes matters worse by depressing the hollows even further, and compacting the soil". Its ...


7

Well it all depends on what kind of lawn you want and the effort you want to put into it. If your ambition is to have Perfect grass: perfectly flat, no weeds, no dead spots then over seed twice a year, every year. This keeps the turf thick, helps out compete weeds and doesn't take very long to do. If you don't care so much then just over seed in the ...


7

I had an idea that planting lots of crocus in the back yard lawn would look beautiful in spring. The local squirrels and chipmunks agreed that this was a wonderful idea and as soon as I planted a bulb they were digging it up behind me. I was putting sod down in an area of the backyard so I got the idea of a permanent solution. After removing the dead grass ...


7

It's still pretty early in the growing season (in the Northern hemisphere), so the thatch may not have had sufficient time to break down and give way to the new growth. But from the look of your pictures (great job, by the way), if you feel the lawn is struggling to fill in those dead spots, your lawn looks like it needs a good de-thatching more than ...


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