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9

The time you spend in preparation is as, or more, important than post planting time. site location, cedars like access to water, not soggy and not dry some shade is fine and full sun is tolerated if the soil is not too dry a wide variety of soil types but I would avoid very sandy soils or soils low in organic matter protection from winter winds. Cedars that ...


6

Bamboo might be a good option as they are evergreen, grow fairly tall and also grow pretty fast here. There are clumping varieties available that don't attempt to escape your yard, but a root barrier is probably your best bet just to be sure. Bamboo come in some interesting colors besides just plain green. I'd normally suggest rhododendrons or evergreen ...


6

There's an interesting piece of research online carried out in June 2005 at the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station, and published in the Horticultural Research Institute Journal; one of the subjects in the trial was Thuja Emerald Green. Under control conditions, they were planted with various amendments (bio gels, mycorrhizal fungi and various other ...


6

There's no easy answer I'm afraid - pyracantha hedges can be kept neat and tidy and shaped to whatever form you choose, but once they've overgrown, they're less easy to cut because of the thickness of the stems. Loppers, secateurs and a hedge trimmer are exactly the tools you need. Use the hedge trimmer to get it to roughly the height and width you want - ...


6

One common problem is trying to grow them with the sides completely vertical - they do better if the top is narrower than the bottom. If the top is wider than the bottom it will shade the bottom out. Your pictures seem to show an untrimmed (or untrimmed for a long time) "hedge" which I'd call more "a row of trees let go, than a hedge" and in that condition ...


6

It seems your trees (yes, Leyland cypresses are trees) were never properly trimmed, more likely planted once and then left alone. Which means they behaved like all trees planted closely together: Gained height quickly, losing density. And all conifers tend to become bare on the bottom and inner branches. Now, the "almost fake" looking hedge you are talking ...


6

I would choose a climbing plant. Many of them can be pruned, to that you create some holes. I think it is better to have strong sun on few places (sun moves), then translucent leaves. Maybe some rose (if you take wild types, you get edible fruits, and they are usually strong and climbing). On plus side: they make also a physical barrier (with spikes), but ...


6

The least expensive tool to use that will also be effective are loppers and a ladder. That hedger is not meant for this level of hedging. Not even close. A ladder, sharp/bypass loppers with long handles, could do this job within an hour including debris cleanup. Focus on the height just below the top of the fence. Don't try to be perfect, let there be at ...


6

To answer the part of your question... The lilly pilly is currently flowering. Is it a good time to trim it? No, do not prune while it is flowering. As a general “rule of thumb” for pruning shrubs and trees, prune after flowering and before too much new growth has progressed. There are obviously exceptions to this rule. This does apply to your ...


5

Depending on your space...STAGGER your plants making an equilateral triangle between 3 plants. 2' distance on each side or more (how high did you want to make this hedge?). 2'is great for a 6-8' hedge. Leave more distance for a taller hedge. If you see one of your arborvitaes begin to 'flag', a particular branch versus all over, get it diagnosed (...


5

Thujas like a fair amount of "food" to jump start them after xfer/transplant. Purchase some sort of evergreen fertilizer product ("M Roots" is one name brand) that has a mycorrhiza element within it as these are the fungi that help with the nutrient transfer for a healthy plant. Also, we have used a 1:1:1 mixture of organic compost, loam, and peat moss for ...


5

My guess is something related to your soil. I'd get the soil tested and see what the results are. It's very possible that it is just over watering but that looks like a decent investment and a soil test is relatively cheap. If you have a university near by that does horticulture type work they probably provide cheap soil tests and advice.


5

It's a bit of a tall order, wanting plants that perform best in spring, summer and winter and not autumn, but I've had a go! Check out Ruscus aculeatus, the variety 'Sparkler' if you can get it, because that one's hermaphrodite and will produce red berries which last well into Winter. Otherwise, you'd need a mix of male and female to get berries. It's ...


5

It would be easy to make 30m of hedge look like one long hedge with the electric trimmer. It would also be easy to get carried away and trim too much with the electric model. I would get both. I'd rough-cut a general shape with the electric and do detail work with the hand shears. In my experience with electric trimmers, they tend to be underpowered and ...


5

Depends how quickly you want your privacy hedge to be dense - as you say, the predicted eventual spread is 3-4 feet, but at ten years, the spread is predicted at 24-30 inches per plant. If you don't mind waiting till the trees have reached full maturity, you can plant them 3 to 4 feet apart, but if you want the hedge to give full privacy within five years or ...


5

The Ivy will be in flower, and is a valuable source of nectar for bees and wasps at this time of year. Activity on the part of those insects will be highest on sunny, warmer days, but just wait a couple of weeks, pick a chilly but dry day, or wait till late afternoon before dusk to do it. Bees can sting too, of course, but its the wasps that are the real ...


4

If you are patient enough to do it, I think its worth going through with a pair of small hand pruners (Fishers makes a very small pair for indoor floral work) and cutting free the tendrils wrapped around stalks of shrubs and branches. If you DON'T do this, they dry & harden and become more difficult to remove, often cutting into the soft tissue/bark of ...


4

There are several possibilities. This might be cultural, that is, when you trimmed it, you cut that browned area too far back, into old wood, and these trees don't regenerate from old wood. If the weather was hot and dry for a couple of weeks after you trimmed it, then some patches may have had trouble regenerating, even if you didn't cut too far back. ...


4

You need somewhere for the water to go. If there is anywhere close by that is lower than the planting area then: dig a trench to the lower area about six inches wide and at least six to twelve inches deep. Place four inch perforated drain pipe with sleeve in the trench backfill the first four inches with gravel Optional -place a layer of landscaping fabric ...


4

I would say that it is worth the time, based on my sharpening experiences. Here is a nice e-how article on the process that breaks it down better than I ever could. I've only sharpened trimmers a few times, but I have sharpened chainsaw chains by hand quite a bit with a round file and it didn't take long at all. Just a bit of patience. The trick is to be ...


4

It is best to prune cedar hedges more than once during the growing season, starting in the spring after the sap is running. This will prevent the plant from excessive dehydration. See here. To encourage growth in the bare spots, you can try cutting out all of the dead wood in the area. Cedars do not often sprout well from old wood, but if the bare spots are ...


4

I agree with Ecnerwal. Both white pines and cedars in the wild will drop needles or leaves in the fall. If you can find wild stands of these trees you will notice there is little else growing on the forest floor due to the "duff" or ground cover of old needles. As to how much is normal this can only be answered by "it depends". ...


4

Leyland Cypress is a popular privacy tree on the west coast, and will also grow well on the east coast from what I have heard. It can be planted as a dense hedge, and provides year round color. They are very hardy, and with fertilizer/good soil can grow 3 feet a year. They will get quite tall if you don't keep them under control, but they accept pruning well,...


4

Fargesia Robusta, one of the greatest bushing bamboo. This bamboo is able to withstand harsh weather. It will be safe between temperatures of 0 Degrees Fahrenheit - (17 degrees Celsius) and 90 degrees Fahrenheit - (32 degrees Celsius) It can be used to create beautiful wall hedging around any area and it will stay quite green. Bamboo usually is quite ...


3

Yes, they will regrow. I have seen cedars be chopped down to less than half their original height. They do regrow but are powerfully ugly for a few years. Providing more water and fertilizer in the spring will help. I can't help you with property law. Where I live anything that grows into or over your property is yours to do with as you please.


3

Internally shaded parts of pretty much all dense evergreens will die off due to lack of light, as the exterior parts grow and shade them out. When light levels reaching a leaf become too low for the plant to get a net benefit from the leaf, it cuts its losses and shuts the leaf down.


3

I've had great luck in dry shade with a ground cover of Sweet Woodruff. It is attractive even when not in bloom, smells good, and in the spring and early summer is covered with tiny white flowers. It spreads quickly, likes shade and can tolerate drier conditions once you get it going.


3

I had a very similar problem with my Japanese box plants. What I did is: completely remove all the mulch. add some Monoammonium Phosphate (MAP) fertilizer, and check the soil every other day, checking for the moisture content, not too dry, nor too wet. I'm not a gardener but these tricks fixed my problem. Now my plants are beautiful.


3

If you just cut down the unwanted plants and left the roots in situ, they will continue to try to grow all the time. The only way to stop that is to treat the stumps with stumpkiller, something like SBK brushwood killer (http://www.vitax.co.uk/home-garden/sbk-brushwood-killer/, by drilling into them and applying the product to the wells or holes you've made. ...


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