20

A few months ago I called my local nursery to ask if they carried ammonium sulfate. He said "Oh, you want aluminum sulfate to acidify the soil for blueberries." I cringed in horror that this advice is being dispensed so regularly. Is aluminum a nutrient or do plants use aluminum in any way? Aluminum is not known to be a nutrient for plant growth in any ...


13

The short answer is "fertilize when the plants need it". For a longer answer, here are some guidelines that I follow: (I know I sound like a broken record) Get a soil test done. This will tell you what your soil does and does not have. A good test lab will give you advice on what amounts of fertilizer to add. If you use organic growing practices, the lab ...


10

Frequency depends on how "fast" the fertilizer is. If it's slow to break down, you don't need to apply it very often, and it's less likely to burn (from too much nitrogen at one time) - so unless you're trying to grow giant pumpkins or something, slow is better, IMHO. Even with slow fertilizer you can apply it more often than you are. Whether you need to ...


10

The label for this product does not recommend applying grass seed until four weeks after the last application. Once this waiting period is up buy or acquire: a big bag of grass seed suitable for the light and soil in your lawn enough compost or top soil to cover the sparse areas to a depth of 1/4" to 1/2" Then Use a rake to open up the soil. Apply grass ...


10

Actually it's a simple question and I'll give you a simple answer too ;-) With "water soluble" they mean, "able to dilute with water before applying". In the soil, every fertilizer is probably soluble with water, but fertilizer is not depending on water to be taken up by the roots. Water is for distribution of nutrients like fertilizer and aeration of the ...


10

Dry leaves should be shredded first as otherwise they might form an impenetrable mat in your compost pile. If you don't have a shredder, it's easiest to just collect a pile of leaves and run the lawn mower over it a few times. This provides the "browns" or high carbon material for your pile. Composting uses bacteria to break down the organic material. ...


10

Yes, you can use it, in lesser quantities. About the second question: the reason why we have not 33-34-33: These number are the percent of weight of N,P, and K. For example, N is a gas, so we need some molecules which includes N (it is impossible to have a solid 100, 0, 0 fertilizer) . Such molecules could include C, H, O, S, (and maybe other atoms). So ...


9

In one word, no. Dog urine contains high concentrations of nitrogen and salts. The concentrations are sufficient to burn grass roots. Tree roots near the surface are only slightly woodier and just as subject to burn. For mature trees they can probably deal with the root burn in localized areas. A freshly planted tree might have a harder time depending on ...


9

Bone meal, like most phosphorous sources, is not mobile in the soil. A plant has to grow towards it to use it. I assume you are not going to dig up your garlic in order to add bone meal or bulb care at the roots. I actually never fertilize my garlic but what it could use in the spring is nitrogen for leaf growth. Nitrogen can be applied as a side ...


9

Bone meal does not help your plants. This is a myth that is found so extensively you would think it had been propagated from seed. From Linda Chalker-Scott of Washington State University Bone meal supplies high levels of phosphorus and calcium, elements that are rarely limiting in non-agricultural soils. Phosphorus, from bone meal or other ...


9

Water the pots thoroughly with distilled water. Most distillation processes remove the dissolved elements in water. As this water flows through the soil that is saturated with fertilizer ions it will attract and remove them. Of course you are still left with a stressed plant with leaf burn. Success is not guaranteed....


9

You don't need any fertiliser at all to start with - the clue is in the word 'starter'. You're only meant to germinate the seeds, then wait till they have 2/3 sets of leaves (one cotyledon pair and one true leaves), at which point you move them into individual pots containing probably seed and cutting compost - then move them up into potting compost in ...


9

An important thing that many people miss is that if a cover crop produces fruit and seed (beans in your case) it is no longer a cover crop or green manure, but a crop, which depletes the soil rather than rebuilding it. That is, all the nitrogen a legume has put into the soil during the growth stage, is consumed by the plant during the fruiting stage. So if ...


9

You're going to be dripping partially treated effluent onto the ground near some fruit trees. The main concern is splash back of pathogenic bacteria onto some edible fruit. Though this risk is less when the fruit is in a tree, there is still some risk especially if someone picks fruit off the ground to consume. It's clearly more of a risk with vegetables ...


9

We get 30 litres of coffee grounds once a month from the local deli. We're on a list of people who take the stuff to stop it going into landfill. It just goes straight into our compost pile. Newly cooked grounds are sterile enough so can be used for growing some mushrooms, and they don't then get competition from other fungi. Some people use coffee ...


8

It is going to be true if it contains nutrient(s) that are in short supply. Bonemeal is considered a slow-release high phosphate fertilizer: bones are primarily apatite - a Calcium Carbonate Phosphate, and the phosphate is more tightly bound than in mined phosphates which are often just simple salts (ie. that dissolve easily). It also has a small quantity ...


8

Here is the general rule-of-thumb I use to identify nutrient deficiences in plants. Deficiencies indicated by symptoms appearing first on older leaves chlorosis starting from leaf tips, later leaves turn yellowish-brown: N reddish/purple discoloration on green leaves or stalks: P leaves with brown necrotic margins and/or spots: K stripe chlorosis, mainly ...


8

You must not use Scotts Weed and Feed formulation now for two reasons - one, you've already applied a weedkiller to the entire lawn, and one of the active ingredients, 2,4D, is present in both formulations, which means you'll be overdosing on the weedkiller front. Second, where you live, your first frost date is early October, so feed should not be applied ...


8

On bedded plants, this won't hurt anything, In potted plants, there is a possibility of altering the pH levels, especially if fermented. Also, the decomposition process could sour the potting mix. And the nutrients gained will be very minimal (minuscule compared with a balanced extended release) Basically whether indoors or outdoors, if you don't have a ...


8

Normally with cover crops you want them to grow as long as possible, where possible is influenced by: When you plan to plant the actual crop (including some time for breakdown of the cover crop residues.) Is the cover crop about to set seed and become a weed through self-seeding? The tops/leaves are also valuable material - you can either incorporate them ...


8

Bear in mind that many commercial outlets do not actually grow trees in pots, they simply buy them in from a specialist supplier. The actual supplier will raise the saplings under controlled conditions (temperature, light, potting medium) usually under cover, and pesticide/fungicide treatments will be relentlessly used, many of which are not even available ...


8

Rock dust is used in organic gardening where basalt and granite is crushed into a fine powder. Bricks are made of clay, sand and lime and where limestone... is often deficient in the majority of essential macro-compounds, trace elements, and micronutrients Even if you did have access to a commercial rock crusher to crush your bricks they would not ...


8

We say a plant is 'etiolated' when its growth becomes long and lanky, usually thin and weak looking, often yellowish or pale in colour, and with elongated gaps between leaves on stems, although this latter is not applicable to your particular plant. Your plant (Euphorbia enopla gets my vote for ID) is looking very healthy. From what you say, you are keeping ...


8

There is a lot of confusion on the subject of salt and fertilisers - when we hear 'salt' we think of the sort of salt that's used in food and which we wouldn't want on our plants, in the main. However, the term 'salts' (as opposed to salt) is a chemist's terminology for various elements in a particular form which are in fertilisers, particularly soluble ...


7

I have a tray in my kitchen lined with several newspaper sections. I dump out my coffee grounds & filters on it each day. The paper helps them dry out. When dry I transfer it to a bowl and collect it until I feel like using it. If I have a worm bin I put the whole mess in it once the grounds are cool and no longer sopping wet. Anyway, drying the ...


7

I have been using grounds as top dressing for tomatoes, garlic, onions, blueberries, roses, hibiscus, iris, strawberries, and evergreens for years, with great results. I use a "tea" of 1 coffee can-full (2lb can) of dry grounds in 5 gallons of water. I mix it Tuesday night, let it sit in the sunny backyard until Saturday, then strain it into my sprayer &...


7

The NPK numbers on the fertilizer represents the percent, by weight, of Nitrogen, P2O5 and K2O, respectively. So if your blood meal is labeled 12-0-0, then a 100 pound bag would contain 12 pounds of nitrogen. If you have a 400 sq ft garden, you'd want to apply a pound of nitrogen, or 100/12 = 8.3 lbs of 12-0-0 fertilizer. Note that the calculation for ...


7

Bone meal is primarily recommended for phosphate and calcium. Neither moves very rapidly through the soil. You should find out why bone meal was recommended: do you have a deficiency of phosphate or calcium? When you know that, then you can figure out what nutrients you need to provide, and then you can figure out what amendments you need and how you can ...


7

I take a bit of a different approach than J. Musser does (and here I am making an assumption based on the answer), but I agree with that approach when adding commercial fertilizer. Bagged fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) can be quite hard on young seedlings. J. Musser didn't specifically state the use of commercial fertilizer in that answer, but I believe that ...


7

Not unless you particularly fancy a dose of e-coli, worms, parasites and a host of other enteric nasties you could be infected with from using it. Generally speaking, manures from herbivores are okay, but even those must be composted prior to use, so composted animal manures are fine - but only if you're not growing root crops such as carrots or parsnips, ...


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