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The two linear cracks on the bottom leaf are almost certainly caused by physical damage to the leaf. The pot may have tipped over and that leaf was caught underneath, or it may have been shoved to the back or side of a shelf and crushed against the wall. The other damage on that leaf probably happened at the same time. The spots on the top leaf are more ...


2

SOLVED: I diagnosed this, it's Spider Mites which Calatheas are quite prone to. If you're noticing these marks on your Calatheas, please take action and get them cleaned ASAP!


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It's likely one of the Freckle diseases, which are primarily fungal in origin. You need to check the twigs and branches for signs of problems on those to confirm what the actual problem is, but from the images, it does look likely it's a form of scab, see here: Stone fruit scab (or freckle).


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They're galls and are probably caused by insects or mites. Unfortunately you can't do anything about it I'm afraid (the leaf damage is permanent and irreversible and by the time you notice it chances are that the bug that has triggered the change has already left). The only possible "treatment" for the leaves is to remove them and a possible ...


2

The brown/tan spots on the bark are not a disease symptom. The spots are called "lenticels." They are a natural part of the bark of young branches and shoots of Royal Poinciana. As branches age, the main color of the bark will change from green to gray, at which point the lenticels become much less noticeable because they match the background color ...


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It is possibly not because of the tap water. That would cause mineral build-up in the tips and edges of the leaves which would lead to crispiness in those areas not yellowing in general. Low humidity would cause similar symptoms as tap water, crispiness instead of overall yellowing. Based on that you have upped the watering I would suspect root rot. You ...


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I would put my bet on over watering. ZZ plants are a very low light tolerant plant getting them grow lights is not necessary for the winter or in general. The fact that you have doubled up the watering since the grow-lights have been installed, it is the possible root cause. With ZZ plants it is enough to water when the soil gets completely dry. During ...


1

I think the leaves start to yellow and drop because of the too small size of the container. The rootball is too small for the size of the plant above ground and therefore it cannot take up enough nutrients. Some leaves therefore will be sacrificed, the nutrients are taken from these leaves and you'll get yellowing and eventually dropping. The top of the ...


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I suspect the problem is the radiator beneath the table. No houseplant likes to be above or close to a heat source - the reason it recovers overnight is because presumably, the radiator is not in use at night. I note the pot appears to be very wide but I can't tell how deep it is; if it's less than 6 inches, then likely the roots will be spread out across ...


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Per the Farmer's Almanac Jade Plant Guide, it seems like your plant isn't getting frequent or deep enough watering: If the plant starts to drop its leaves, if leaves start to shrivel, or if brown spots appear on the leaves, it is an indication that the plant needs more water. So give it a nice, deep watering, but the water shouldn't spill out of the tray ...


1

Other option could be thrips based on that you have seen tiny, tiny insects. There are many species but most commonly they are white and very tiny as said. In my experience they are very hard to notice if you do not know what you are dealing with. Chances are high that you will see the browning spots and other damage on your plant first. Note that fully ...


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