6

A side note re. burning them: A small German company (in German, sorry) sells them as charcoal alternative for grilling. The most important information as per their website and newspaper articles: They claim that they are ready for grilling (embers) in only five to ten minutes and supply good heat for about twenty minutes. It is said that the smoke is ...


6

Sure, you could put them in as woody material to compost slowly. You could also bundle them and burn. Some folks make baskets with them. Depending what you then do with them that could be either practical or decoration.


6

When you say pole saw I assume you mean a standard manual pole saw. If you're willing to spend a little money look into a chainsaw pole saw, that should tear through them in a hurry.


6

If this plant still has a good root system and is not dying due to being water logged or root rot then the tough love approach works: cut everything back to the ground when new growth starts fertilize lightly once this year in the spring there are numerous choices for fertilizer: compost tea for those who prefer the organic do it yourself approach seaweed ...


5

The areas without leaves are dead. If you want to save the tree, cut them back to green growing limbs. Oak trees can be very resilient, and it might pull through, but regrowth will be slow, and it will probably never catch up to a normal tree. Also, borers will be a concern, with all the wounds left by the saw. Rotating a tree of that size will put it in ...


5

I have used high-quality Japanese saw blades to cut dry palm fronds (replacing them when they start getting dull). They cut through even dry fronds like butter (as long as the teeth are a good size: over 1/2 cm but less than 1, IIRC), and cut-on-pull is way easier when trying to balance on a ladder. The saw I used was hand-held, but I suppose you could ...


4

Scrape back the skin of the bark with your fingernail - do it near the base of the plant. If what's beneath is dry and brown, its dead - if there's any green or moisture, then it might recover - though not if you leave it sitting in water. UPDATED ANSWER: You've said it seems green inside and you've removed it from the standing water. It needs warm ...


4

The hope seems pretty small, especially if it's been like this for any length of time. No leaves, sitting in a saucer-full of water. Either it's been soddened to death or it was parched to death and the soddening is a belated attempt to compensate. In either case sodden is not good for anything that doesn't normally live in a bog. Moist is about as much ...


4

I quickly gave up using a pruning pole saw, and now cut the dead fronds from my Washingtonias, and Phoenix palms, in minutes with cheap but efficient pruning shears which I bought from my local supermarket and have used for the last three years. You will, however, need a good ladder if your palms are 5 to 6 meters tall.


4

I always used a bow saw or pruning saw to trim my big and little palms. They will cut through anything. Not good for high stuff. Mine got so big I had to finally break down and hire someone to cut them for me. Not worth going to the hospital.


4

The graft that dropped its leaves would be the apricot part, as nectarine and peach leaves look the same, and that's what's on those other two branches. I see from your comment: For those interested, in the spring of 2014 that "dead" graft came back to life and was the most vigorous growing graft on the tree that year. that the branch was alive. In the ...


4

Cut some slices from the trunk, polish them up, carve or don't or hire that out, hang on wires, give your wife earrings for the next anniversary. Or beads, or (if there's enough wood) make pocketknife handle slabs, cufflinks etc... much nicer than a dead stick collecting dust in a vase, IMHO. I don't know how much wood you have, but "jewelry items" don't ...


3

They both look as if they're suffering from dieback, which is a common affliction with Acer palmatum varieties. I agree the worst affected one should be removed, but with the other, prune out the dead parts back to healthy wood. Don't cut into healthy wood, Acers bleed at this time of year, make the cuts just at the point where the dead part stops.This plant ...


3

Now you've cut off the top (which, by the way, is impossible to see, its so blurry, could be a tiny hedgehog for all I can tell, and it doesn't look particularly dead anyway), all you can do is wait and see - it should form a callus (like a scab) which look like a corky area. You should leave that alone. What I'm curious about is why this happened in the ...


3

I would remove all dead, diseased and damage material from this plant first before even thinking of doing any remedial shaping or pruning. When other trees where I live begin to loose their canopies like this its usually a sign of poor aeration around the roots due to high traffic and compaction of the soil around the base, however the method of improving ...


3

The usual cause of yellow leaves is overwatering. I don't see a drainage tray on the pot but even so as the typical soil less mix ages it compacts as the organic matter is used up. I recommend removing it from the pot and examine the roots. White or brown are good to go, black or soft and mushy is root rot. Put a few inches of fresh soil less mix in the ...


3

The tan brown branches on your tree are dead twigs and limbs. If you will look towards the bottom of each, you will see a bit of an enlarged green area where it joins the main branch. You should gently prune each of those dead twigs off to just above that. Besides these dead branches, your tree looks pretty sparse on the foliage. You need to figure out ...


3

It doesn't look too good - I note the bark lower down on the main trunk appears to have a longitudinal crack and parts of the bark are lifting off. Try scraping back the surface on some of the smaller branches with a fingernail if possible - if it's dry and brownish inside those branches are dead, which likely means the tree has died. The deposits are ...


2

How long has that tree been staked? It looks like it has been years...The trunk actually thickens above the hoses...sigh. I would unshackle the poor thing and prune out all dead branches as well as all small-diameter healthy branches. This will allow the wind to blow through the tree, otherwise, as long as this tree has been staked...a breeze will blow this ...


2

I use a battery and 12V reciprocating saw with a good Diablo DS0905FG5 blade from Home Depot and they cut like butter. If you don't like ladders, hire somebody!


2

I'm in precisely the same position with my tall palms over 30 years old. I'm not certain about telescopic pole chainsaws, given the potential for hazardous kickback at extended heights. I'm presently looking at manual high quality blade pole saws at this site http://www.forestrytools.com.au/index.php?id=24. And specifically the Silky Hayate 7.7m Pole Saw, ...


2

If you are going to completely cut down a larger palm tree, please be advised you will need probably 3 chainsaw blades because queen palms dull the blades very quickly (I have never seen this so fast vs other trees). We used 3 blades on a 20 inch saw to take down a 25 foot queen palm and cut into 12 inch pieces for disposal because they are SO heavy. BTW I ...


2

As you have learned, the pH is an important factor, however the immediate concern seems to be that we don't know if the plant is dead or alive. There is a quick and simple test for this: choose a nice thick shoot about halfway up the stem and push a thumbnail against the bark between two buds to raise up a tiny flap and see what is just below the surface. ...


2

Here are a few observations based on my experience with Maple. First, they tend to do better in a shaded area of the house. It does not take direct sunlight very well so depending on the location of each plant, it may explain why one is doing fine and the other is not. Secondly, I experienced something similar and it was due to lack of water. I started ...


2

If we go by pictures 3 and 4 numbered from the top, we see an example shoot. What we expect to see in a healthy tree is a number of growth segments (in the pictures we can see about 4 of these with different colour bark on the twig). Each segment represents a year of growth, and each should be about the same length which in a vigorous tree could be 10 cm and ...


2

Sclerotinia White Mold This plant is not looking like a keeper. I am worried this might be Sclerotinia. I can't see them but I get the feeling that you have spider mite as well. Not the deal breaker Sclerotinia is however. Please send a few more pictures, Ashar. If this is Sclerotinia you need to dispose all the soil and plant in a thick plastic ...


2

Oh yes, I remember now, you asked another question on this plant before (Campanula poscharskyana 'Adansa'). Wait till all the flowers have faded, and cut off all flowered stems back to just leafy growth. Your plant may produce a few more flowers around September, but may not - they usually only flower the once in a year. The purpose of cutting it back is ...


1

I cannot give you much information. But one thing I could say is with what the leaf's look like. Its some kind of spore disease of some sort. they spread very easily. Droplets of rain can spread it easily. I recommend Cutting off infected branches in a couple year process to not exceed 25% of canopy in one year. Disinfect your cutting shears after ...


1

It could be due to circling roots, borers, Wooly Aphid...hard to say without actually seeing the tree first hand. If you look at the limbs and see little white nodules on the bark...it's probably Wooly Aphids. They've been a huge problem in your area. The taller tree cannot be saved. Depending upon the cause, the shorter might be savable..but doubtful.


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible