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12

That looks like the worst case of scale I've ever seen. Are the tops of the leaves sticky, and is there more of it on the central rib of each leaf (top and/or bottom)? If so, that pretty much clinches it. Yes, you definitely need to treat it. You'll find some advice here, but maybe someone has better advice for such a horrible infestation. What I would ...


12

It looks in your photos as if you have it in a small cup with no drainage. I would surmise from that & the condition of the leaves that it is over-watered and probably suffering from root rot. Replant it into a container with drainage holes with a rich, well draining potting soil. Keep the soil damp but not soggy and give it some time.


11

It is probably suffering in part from transplant shock. Give it some time to adjust. Also, make sure you are not over-watering. If you stick your finger an inch or so into the soil, it should feel cool & damp, but not soggy. Let the soil dry to this point, but not completely dry & then saturate when watering. Wait until the soil has dried to the ...


10

I would suggest: Lack of sunlight I notice it's right next to a fence corner and suspect there's not enough sunlight getting through to this one for it to thrive. I'm not sure what to suggest as a solution for that. Possible magnesium deficiency (pretty common in Australian citrus trees) or some other mineral deficiency in soil I also notice, on close ...


9

A quote from Golden Gate Gardener on the identification This happens because some mites enter the flower buds and start sucking out the sap. The ovary of the flower is misshapen, so the fruit is, well, outlandish. Citrus bud mite is apparently particularly a problem near the coast in our area, just where we depend on lemons for most of our garden citrus. ...


9

We get a lot of questions about member of the citrus family. Some varieties will flower and set fruit indoors. So, yes, you can grow citrus indoors but they are challenging to keep looking nice at the size of your plant without a greenhouse. is the pot the right size? This depends on whether it is pot bound or not. It sounds about right. This is part of ...


8

Yes and yes. It sounds like you have a sour orange which is typically used as root stock for full sized citrus trees. You can graft grapefruit, orange, lemons and limes to this stock. Oranges and grapefruit will do the best. If you put Mexican lime on one side and grapefruit on the other the lime side will grow slower and the grapefruit side faster and so ...


8

I believe that what you're describing is a type of citrus medica commonly known under many names such as Citron, Etrog, Esrog, Turanj, Bara Nimbu, e.t.c. and I'd guess they also come in all kinds of shapes and sizes. I've seen really odd octopus-like looking fingered etrog ones with their bottom half split into many arms or fingers, but most would look like ...


8

Grubs like the one you've pictured feed on plant roots. If there are a lot of them, then yes, they are doing damage. You may just not be noticing it yet. The worst part is they will eventually pupate into adult beetles, and those will work on damaging the above-ground parts of your plants. If they are Japanese Beetles (hard to say without more info but the ...


8

They are getting pollinated well enough, you can see the young fruit hips in those pictures. If there wasn't any fruit set, the ovaries would fall of the same time as the flower and you'd see no hips. Your problem is either lack of or too much nutrition and water. Wide temp swings can also cause infant fruit to fall off.


8

Looks like you have at least two problems. Let's take the last image first which appears to show Citrus Leaf Miner damage. You can see the channels that the miner has burrowed into the leaf. The other images show a plant under a lot of stress. The leaves show a lack of nutrients - the stem looks as though it was strong and healthy at one time, but then ...


7

Did the trees flower over the last few months? Do they currently have small green fruit on them? If so then you have a chance to save the current crop in which case you should definitely fertilise. Use a good quality citrus fertiliser. For trees of that size you will need to apply quite a bit. It has taken me a few seasons of caring for the established ...


7

We're in the dry and hot part of Washington state, and our miniature citrus trees are moved outside in the late spring, brought inside in the early fall. They get regular (daily) water and direct sunlight, but they also get a chance to acclimatize before it gets too hot. They are much happier outside and always lose leaves when they are brought in. ...


7

Well, a citrus tree is not going to do well in a temperate climate. Eg. I've seen miniature kumquats and the like, do well indoors in the UK, but you'd never grow any citrus tree outdoors in the UK. In other words the indoor and outdoor climates can be so very different (incl. in Colorado) that "no such thing as an indoor citrus tree that would not do well ...


7

Citrus trees want about 6.0-7.0 pH. You can raise the pH of the potting medium with (pulverized) lime, but it's best to mix in the lime thoroughly when making the potting mix. I'm not sure that top dressing your pot with lime will help the pH much, though it may correct it gradually over time. When making a soil mix, take into account the natural pH of the ...


7

Good news is that many things to watch for in deciduous trees are not an issue with citrus. Branches are able to bear heavy loads of fruit, the crop is about the same on pruned or unpruned trees and fruit is produced in all but the most heavily shaded parts of the tree. Here is what you should do: prune between February and April in the Northern hemisphere ...


7

Looks like spider mites or a deficiency. Here's how to tell them apart: look on the underside of the leaf. Spider mites are visible to the eye but a magnifying glass will help. If you see whitish blobs clustered around the veins of the plant you have a small problem. If I'm right you have an extensive infestation and will see them all over the underside ...


7

Those look like citrus mites to me. But it also looks like your tree may have been suffering from heat and/or moisture stress. This makes it much more susceptible to infestations of this sort, so as you treat this you need to check your cultivation practices and correct anything that is amiss. There are chemical treatments for citrus mites. You can also ...


7

The seediness of Clementine mandarins depends upon the availability of pollen from other citrus varieties when the tree is in bloom. Clementines are typically low seeded or seedless when grown in a large block of a single variety. However, if bees show up with pollen of certain other varieties, Clementines will become seedy. Pummelos, for example, have ...


7

It would seem the scion is at the base of your plant, as shown in the second picture. Therefore, the branch you're concerned about is not a sucker because it doesn't arise from below the scion, or graft, or from below soil level. It might be a watersprout, although it doesn't look overly vigorous, and you will know whether its growing much faster than the ...


7

The dark green veins and light green leaf material also indicate an Iron/Manganese deficiency which is very common with citrus grown on alkaline soils. See here for more detail. Repotting with new soil, more light, more drainage and a touch of acid or citrus fertilizer should fix all the symptoms.


6

A picture would help. You can do the diagnosis by doing a walk around the tree. Check for these items: is the soil compacted and dry or springy and rich with organic matter? is there competition from grass and other plants under the tree are the veins of the leaves green and the rest of the leaf yellow (nutrient deficiency) is the soil dry and sandy or ...


6

Looks like a nitrogen deficiency as is seen here. There are no other signs of typical citrus problems such as iron manganese deficiency which gives dark veins and lighter leaf area. Some of this may be the soil mix. I see lots of shredded bark which, when combined with a moist soil, could be taking up nitrogen that the citrus roots would otherwise use. ...


6

I've seen many citrus trees in pots. In fact where I live that is all I see since they'd have to come inside during the winter. I'd think that the trees would do fine in a pot. If you get a decent size pot they will grow to fill that pot. I'm not sure what you mean by stunted by being in a pot. The tree size will be limited because of the pot, but if ...


6

That picture shows what looks remarkably like a chafer grub, commonest in lawns, but also found in borders and vegetable beds, where it particularly likes root crops. Japanese beetle grubs are similar, but have, if you look closely, a sort of hairy spine - small, fine hairs that stick up, which I cannot see in the picture, so closer examination would be good ...


6

Grafting compatibility depends on genetic similarity. Because of this, the most successful grafts are between species, within the genera. Inter-generic grafts are usually not successful, but in some cases where the genera are genetically similar, grafting is rather reliable (like the practice of grafting pear cultivars onto the hardier and more resilient ...


6

More seeds is a sign of stress. The plant produces more seeds when the chances of survival (from the tree's perspective) grow slimmer and slimmer. A well cared for, fertilized, pruned, and irrigated tree will have much better fruit with fewer seeds than a neglected tree. So yes, with the tree 'fallen to some neglect', it makes logical sense that your tree ...


6

Sfgate and the other content mills are crap. Lots of times articles are written by people with little or no experience other than the ability to paraphrase. I remember reading a lawn care article written by a hair stylist. Most of the time they just copy stuff from other sources and reword them. This page from a dwarf citrus grower indicates you don't need ...


6

Citrus typically takes a long time to ripen. Valencia oranges, for example, will still be completing the ripening process even after the tree has flowered and set fruit for the next season. You did not specify what type of limes you have. Key limes are typically shorter (three to four months in ideal conditions) but can take longer depending on lighting and ...


6

This has nothing to do with what pollinated your trees this year. But apparently some of your trees have a trace of blood oranges in their ancestral line. Oranges (Citrus x sinensis) are a hybrid between pomelo and mandarin and all citrus are rather prone to hybridization and mutations. So why do you suddenly see red streaks? I blame the weather. Did you ...


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