Hot answers tagged

8

I have done this successfully several times, but in a warmer zone (Lancaster, PA, zone 6b). I put the bulbs in a 33 degree F. refrigerator for about 2 weeks first, reasoning that it would prepare them for the cold (~15-20 deg. F. at the time). They all survived, each time. Things to note: If you use the fridge, make sure there is no fruit in it, or the ...


8

There's nothing you can do - we're in the same boat here in the UK, lots of people saying their new bulb plantings are showing growth already, although more mature plantings aren't. The cause is fluctuating weather conditions - cooler weather when planted, with warmer weather arriving a few weeks later, which starts the growth cycle. Usually its the ...


7

It's possible they may do nothing at all ever, but you should plant them immediately anyway - they may put out some leaves which will at least enable them to garner food supplies for possible flowering next year and gives them a bit of a chance of surviving. There is nothing to be gained by waiting until this fall, they'll likely shrivel and dry out by then. ...


7

Plant them as is, do not try to mend the bulbs. At best the bulb just needs some moisture from the surrounding soil. At worst, the bulb simply won't grow. If you are concerned about disease, you can throw the sad looking ones out, but don't bother trying to mend them, you'll do more harm than good.


7

The outer layers are thick, dry and dark brown. Should I peel them away, or is there reason to believe they may be protecting the healthy part of the bulb? Only remove them if they are hanging loose from the bulbs. The ones wrapped around the bulbs are protective and should not be removed. The tops are shriveled, but I can see some green down ...


7

Couple of things - when you bought your hyacinth bulb, was it a prepared, pre treated one, sold specially for growing indoors? Or was it just an ordinary outdoor one? It's usual to buy a prepared one for indoor growing, to ensure they flower in late winter rather than waiting for late spring, as they naturally do, so the fact yours has already finished ...


7

It's Ornithogalum, most likely the variety O. umbellatum, a spring flowering bulb - the flowers have a green stripe down the outside of each petal. This one's a bit of a state, the flower stem should be much shorter and upright, looks as if its suffered insufficient light and certainly a lack of sunlight, which it likes, probably all caused by being kept ...


7

With regular garlic, you would cut it off at a certain point if you wanted bigger bulbs in the ground, or leave it on if you want bulbils/bulblets to form. FYI: You can eat garlic scapes (they're tasty). Unlike most garlic, leeks produce true seed (so for leeks, you would leave the flower and scape on if you wanted seeds). I've never grown elephant garlic. ...


6

Yes, cold paired with no snow cover is hard on top growth, but garlic cloves will survive the winter in zone 6b (where I am also, incidentally). In my area, it's common for the top growth to die back completely during winter, and come back in the spring.


6

My amaryllis bulb is about 26 years old and blooms twice every year without fail. I have it in an east facing window, and I water it as and when I remember! I feed it with Gro-more twice a year as the main stalk starts to show (only adding to one watering each blossoming time). I honestly do not pamper this bulb, never take it out of the window (even in ...


6

Like you said, flowers for cross-pollination don't always coincide. Here's how to harvest and save pollen. After the flower is open, the anthers have burst/opened, and you can see mature grains of pollen, take a fine brush, and gently remove some of the pollen and put it onto a white sheet of paper. You can use pollen from more than one flower, as long as ...


6

On the assumption you mean indoors in the sun, it would be best if it wasn't in full, hot sun all day because it might affect the roots - the glass may magnify the sun's rays and cause burning, and will certainly cause a fair amount of condensation on the glass under the bulb. A little sun is fine though, and yes, you can and should leave it as it is in its ...


5

Tulips do best when planted deep, like 8 inches, for best perennialization. Daffodils, on the other hand, will spread much faster when planted at 3-4" deep. Now, this is for the purpose of perennialization, to make sure the plants return each year. Bulbs need root space as much as other plants, long term. If it's a one season thing you are doing, They will ...


5

The grape like fruits are the seed pods. Yes, you can grow snowdrops from seed, but for most bulbs it will take 2-4 years from seed to bulb. Given how many seeds each one can produce this is easily your fastest way. Failing that, however, pruning off the seed pods/ flowers ASAP means that the plant pushes more energy into growing the bulb. Now, some ...


5

From the daylilies faq When is the right time to plant daylilies? North In the North, spring planting is normally preferred. Fall planting in colder climates can prove fatal for daylilies because they often do not have adequate time to form new roots and to begin to anchor themselves before winter comes. Experienced gardeners, however, can plant ...


5

Not sure why the houseplant tag has been applied, since these seem to be growing outdoors, but no matter - they are Eucomis, common name Pineapple Lily. Hard to be sure which variety they are, as they look like they're nearly over and there's no way of telling what colour they were, but there's just a hint that this one might be Eucomis comosa, see link for ...


5

Plant them now, although I doubt you'll get any flowers this year. Don't remove the leaves before they completely fade. You can keep the bulbs in the ground without taking them out every year until they are too crowded - it will take a few years until they divide that much to become crowded. If you don't plant the bulbs, they might shrivel too much and die ...


5

I'm afraid not - sometimes a single bulb produces two flowers, but with tulips, that's rare, and those two both come up at once, not in stages. A bulb is a storage organ - while the leaves are present, the bulb stores energy within it from the leaves, and flower initiation within the bulb (for the following spring) is already formed by the time the leaves ...


5

The green growth in the last picture is unrelated to the corms you've found - they are Crocosmia, a flowering plant with narrow, swordlike leaves, and this string type arrangement as they multiply is typical. If you want to replant some, do not separate the strings, plant them as they are. It's impossible to know whether the corms are Crocosmia masonorum, ...


5

If it says plant 4 inches deep on the packet, plant it in a hole that deep; the measurement listed applies to the depth of the hole. There is a general rule for bulb planting, which is, plant as deep as 2-3 times the height of the bulb, which means that daffodils, for instance, are likely to be six inches deep, whereas smaller bulbs will be 3 or 4 inches ...


4

Plant them now. If they're sprouting, they're using their own stored energy to grow their leaves, so the more they use doing that, the less they'll have for putting out flowers in late winter or spring. They're probably not getting the water they need either, and that's also coming from what's stored in the bulb; once that runs out, they'll start to weaken ...


4

"It's now October and they're sprouting again!" -- as they should be. Most freesias are native to the hot dry summer, moist winter portions of South Africa. Freesias normal cycle is to go dormant during the summer and resprout when temperatures moderate and the rains finally return. They have summer dormancy period. I am not sure whether the bulbs need to ...


4

my amaryllis bulb is now 21 years old I leave it in a pot year round in the house some years it blooms twice


4

I don't think its Lilium superbum - the petals are much more reflexed on that plant, curling back so far as to almost touch the trumpet at the back. Much more likely it's Lilium canadense, or the Canada Lily - can be yellow, orange or red, usually found growing in damper places.


4

Hardy bulbs, such as hyacinth, require a number of hours of cold in order to properly set blooms for the spring. If they are planted outdoors in a suitable climate, this happens naturally during the course of the fall and winter. If you want to have them bloom ahead of schedule in pots, you have to simulate this winter rest by "cold treating" them in some ...


4

No, all bulbs produce a flower at some point, though some may only flower once and then die. The usual cause of non flowering is environmental, meaning the plant hasn't been able to access sufficient food or water during the time its leaves are present to initiate flower production for the following year. A bulb is a storage organ, and when the leaves are ...


4

I have always just plant onion bulbs in the ground. I do not think your Phase 1 is necessary at all. Here are a couple of links with detailed information on planting onions Wikihow Grow Onions or Gardeners.com.


4

It looks like a Scadoxus to me. The Wikipedia page may help to confirm.


4

Seems to be a Peruvian Daffodil Hymenocallis festalis The curious stamen arrangement matches up, as do the flowers and leaves. Your first guess as well as your mother's guess were in the right genetic ballpark. Agapanthus, Amaryllis and Hymenocallis are all genera of the Amaryllidaceae family.


4

I'm in Massachusetts, and have gone through this many times over the years. I'm always concerned, especially because I so look forward to those harbingers of spring, and don't want them having nothing left to bloom at the proper time! In general I agree with the advice you've already been given, and have learned from experience that the bulbs will go ...


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