Hot answers tagged

8

Yes, I should think so, but I suppose the success rate would vary depending on what kind of bulb it is. Bulbs contain the food or nutrients to keep it alive while it is dormant through the winter. Sixty days in the fridge is shorter than an outdoor overwintering and definitely cool enough so they should be fine. If the bulb is too squishy it might have ...


8

Given that it grows on poor soils, is shallowly planted, is evergreen (since it stays green this time of year), and has a white easter lily like bloom. I would guess it is Madonna Lily (Lilium candidum) (USDA zone 4-5). Photo of Lilium candidum at VanDusen Botanical Garden, taken July 2005 by Stan Shebs. A photo of madonna lily's evergreen basal growth, ...


8

I have done this successfully several times, but in a warmer zone (Lancaster, PA, zone 6b). I put the bulbs in a 33 degree F. refrigerator for about 2 weeks first, reasoning that it would prepare them for the cold (~15-20 deg. F. at the time). They all survived, each time. Things to note: If you use the fridge, make sure there is no fruit in it, or the ...


8

There's nothing you can do - we're in the same boat here in the UK, lots of people saying their new bulb plantings are showing growth already, although more mature plantings aren't. The cause is fluctuating weather conditions - cooler weather when planted, with warmer weather arriving a few weeks later, which starts the growth cycle. Usually its the ...


7

It's possible they may do nothing at all ever, but you should plant them immediately anyway - they may put out some leaves which will at least enable them to garner food supplies for possible flowering next year and gives them a bit of a chance of surviving. There is nothing to be gained by waiting until this fall, they'll likely shrivel and dry out by then. ...


7

Plant them as is, do not try to mend the bulbs. At best the bulb just needs some moisture from the surrounding soil. At worst, the bulb simply won't grow. If you are concerned about disease, you can throw the sad looking ones out, but don't bother trying to mend them, you'll do more harm than good.


7

The outer layers are thick, dry and dark brown. Should I peel them away, or is there reason to believe they may be protecting the healthy part of the bulb? Only remove them if they are hanging loose from the bulbs. The ones wrapped around the bulbs are protective and should not be removed. The tops are shriveled, but I can see some green down ...


7

Couple of things - when you bought your hyacinth bulb, was it a prepared, pre treated one, sold specially for growing indoors? Or was it just an ordinary outdoor one? It's usual to buy a prepared one for indoor growing, to ensure they flower in late winter rather than waiting for late spring, as they naturally do, so the fact yours has already finished ...


7

It's Ornithogalum, most likely the variety O. umbellatum, a spring flowering bulb - the flowers have a green stripe down the outside of each petal. This one's a bit of a state, the flower stem should be much shorter and upright, looks as if its suffered insufficient light and certainly a lack of sunlight, which it likes, probably all caused by being kept ...


7

With regular garlic, you would cut it off at a certain point if you wanted bigger bulbs in the ground, or leave it on if you want bulbils/bulblets to form. FYI: You can eat garlic scapes (they're tasty). Unlike most garlic, leeks produce true seed (so for leeks, you would leave the flower and scape on if you wanted seeds). I've never grown elephant garlic. ...


6

Wait until the foliage yellows, then remove the plants from the pots, trim off all the tops and roots. Plant them 4-6" deep if you have a sandy soil, slightly more shallow if you have clay. Cover the soil with 1" of a straw-type mulch and tamp down. It should then need no further attention until spring.


6

I had a friend tell me that I could put about the last 2 inches of green onions in a shot glass or other small glass, fill it with water (being sure to leave to top sticking out), then stick it in my window sill so it gets a lot of sun, and they will re-grow! You just have to keep an eye on the amount of water so it doesn't dry up. I've been doing it for the ...


6

Have you had unseasonably warm weather in the past few weeks? (we have down here in Texas). Unseasonably warm weather will often 'trick' plants into producing new leaves and/or flowers early. The real problem occurs if there's a frost which kills new buds/growth (I suspect daffodils are less prone to that than, say, fruit trees).


6

My amaryllis bulb is about 26 years old and blooms twice every year without fail. I have it in an east facing window, and I water it as and when I remember! I feed it with Gro-more twice a year as the main stalk starts to show (only adding to one watering each blossoming time). I honestly do not pamper this bulb, never take it out of the window (even in ...


6

Last year, I stored tulips and daffodils in the fridge from September until January. I only got one daffodil to bloom (but the weather was VERY flip-floppy last year which confused my entire garden). However, the tulips all bloomed incredibly (it was perfect temperatures for them when they were busy blooming). My conclusion is that your bulbs will be fine.


6

Replant it roots down and it might stage a comeback. The stem will come about.


6

Yes, cold paired with no snow cover is hard on top growth, but garlic cloves will survive the winter in zone 6b (where I am also, incidentally). In my area, it's common for the top growth to die back completely during winter, and come back in the spring.


6

Like you said, flowers for cross-pollination don't always coincide. Here's how to harvest and save pollen. After the flower is open, the anthers have burst/opened, and you can see mature grains of pollen, take a fine brush, and gently remove some of the pollen and put it onto a white sheet of paper. You can use pollen from more than one flower, as long as ...


6

On the assumption you mean indoors in the sun, it would be best if it wasn't in full, hot sun all day because it might affect the roots - the glass may magnify the sun's rays and cause burning, and will certainly cause a fair amount of condensation on the glass under the bulb. A little sun is fine though, and yes, you can and should leave it as it is in its ...


5

The grape like fruits are the seed pods. Yes, you can grow snowdrops from seed, but for most bulbs it will take 2-4 years from seed to bulb. Given how many seeds each one can produce this is easily your fastest way. Failing that, however, pruning off the seed pods/ flowers ASAP means that the plant pushes more energy into growing the bulb. Now, some ...


5

Yes, they will be fine. As the energy of the plant was exhausted by producing the bud, it needs to store the energy again in the coming year. If the deers didn't eat the whole lily and some leaves are still there, they can do photosynthesis thus storing the nutrients again. And when the next suitable season comes, the flowers will still bloom. After all, ...


5

The leaves of Armenian grape hyacinth (Muscari armeniacum) normally emerge in the fall. This species includes many of the modern named varieties. Common grape hyacinth (Muscari botryoides) consistantly sends up leaves in the fall in Washington State, but does this less often in other areas, like Minnesota. Once grape hyacinths go dormant in the late spring ...


5

I plant hostas with daffodils. They leaf out later and cover the foliage of the daffodils as they die back. My psychic gardening powers tell me you have some Regal Blue Hosta which could be split and planted with your daffodils. Why not give it a try? EDIT: Daffodils need full sun and Regal Blue Hosta are normally comfortable with half sun. So it depends ...


5

Tulips do best when planted deep, like 8 inches, for best perennialization. Daffodils, on the other hand, will spread much faster when planted at 3-4" deep. Now, this is for the purpose of perennialization, to make sure the plants return each year. Bulbs need root space as much as other plants, long term. If it's a one season thing you are doing, They will ...


5

From the daylilies faq When is the right time to plant daylilies? North In the North, spring planting is normally preferred. Fall planting in colder climates can prove fatal for daylilies because they often do not have adequate time to form new roots and to begin to anchor themselves before winter comes. Experienced gardeners, however, can plant ...


5

Not sure why the houseplant tag has been applied, since these seem to be growing outdoors, but no matter - they are Eucomis, common name Pineapple Lily. Hard to be sure which variety they are, as they look like they're nearly over and there's no way of telling what colour they were, but there's just a hint that this one might be Eucomis comosa, see link for ...


5

Plant them now, although I doubt you'll get any flowers this year. Don't remove the leaves before they completely fade. You can keep the bulbs in the ground without taking them out every year until they are too crowded - it will take a few years until they divide that much to become crowded. If you don't plant the bulbs, they might shrivel too much and die ...


5

I'm afraid not - sometimes a single bulb produces two flowers, but with tulips, that's rare, and those two both come up at once, not in stages. A bulb is a storage organ - while the leaves are present, the bulb stores energy within it from the leaves, and flower initiation within the bulb (for the following spring) is already formed by the time the leaves ...


5

The green growth in the last picture is unrelated to the corms you've found - they are Crocosmia, a flowering plant with narrow, swordlike leaves, and this string type arrangement as they multiply is typical. If you want to replant some, do not separate the strings, plant them as they are. It's impossible to know whether the corms are Crocosmia masonorum, ...


5

If it says plant 4 inches deep on the packet, plant it in a hole that deep; the measurement listed applies to the depth of the hole. There is a general rule for bulb planting, which is, plant as deep as 2-3 times the height of the bulb, which means that daffodils, for instance, are likely to be six inches deep, whereas smaller bulbs will be 3 or 4 inches ...


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