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I see this in Texas during the middle of summer - and always put it down to heat, as it happens even with lots of watering. Some varieties handle the heat better than others (eg. 'Gypsy' bell does we …

I don't know about "properly", but what we have done on three beds (and it seems to work) is: Start with roughly 50/50 mix of cheap topsoil bags (tend to be very sandy) and the more expensive garden …

Haven't tried spinach or blueberries, but I've grown potatoes and tried broccoli here in N.Texas (similar climate to OK but our frosts are not as bad). Your growing season for these plants are limit …

Smaller root vegetables might also be worth trying - e.g. beetroot, onions, and carrots (although carrots might need deep pots). …

I would definitely keep with the beans (and any other legumes you might find). These will help to add nitrogen to the soil. Corn/etc will tend to take nitrogen from the soil (they're often grown toget …

Tomatoes are very similar to peppers and I find they need similar conditions, although we find peppers have a longer growing season through our (hot) summers. So following from this, I would start th …

Yes I use the green stems as my guide. It could be the color-cast of the photo, but it looks like the stem on the far right has some green? The very base between the roots and the branches will be w …

Why not start with some beans or other legumes? These will help put some nitrogen into your soil, and you'll get a crop as well.

As @bstpierre says, the tolerances are going to vary. I've had peppers survive temperatures in the mid 30s but they go dormant and won't produce - a hard frost will kill them out right. I would expect …

peppers and tomatoes do well in warm weather as already suggested. For cool, wet winters, you might have some success with potatoes if you do not get a frost. I've grown them in a Texas spring but it …

Technically you only need to feed them when the soil is deficient of one or more nutrients. This is probably why you see such a range of advice - people grow them in a range of conditions, composts, e …

Soap spray is the usual recommendation given for "organic" insecticide. Organic is a relative term of course, but it will generally breakdown quicker than most other insecticides. Hot pepper (I assum …

Local newspapers and master gardener groups are a place to look - they may have websites of pamphlets/booklets. Here's one for Eugene (see note below): http://www.eugeneweekly.com/springplantingguide …

@yoda's answer makes sense, but to be honest I just pull them off - usually they break at the node as that is the weak point. If they come off at the 'cap' then I do remove the rest of the stem - but …

Yes you can eat them - just cut away the rot. Remove them for all the reasons already given. Also the rot will only grow - so you might as well salvage the pepper whilst you can. Another reason is t …