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For own consumption I think it is not a good way to select better vegetables (nor the size of the vegetables). … I usually don't like overmature vegetables. How to measure? Usually there is two instruments: densimeter and refractrometer. Both measure the density of pulp "liquid". …

I would start with beans and tomatoes, e.v. courgettes and pumpkin: the first two are more obvious about the growth and problems. They will overgrowth weeds. And beans are fast to growth, so if you we …

To me, it seems a easy job (and quicker) to do it by hand: not many and large plants. Not many small and new one, so it seems there are not many seeds around. Do you know what plant it is? Where do t …

The phenological development stages are different on different plants, but in general: seed cotyledon: usually one (monocots) or two (dicots) or many (conifers) leaves development (the green vegetables … Ferns, mosses and lichens are totally different, but usually they are not grow as vegetables, but harvested in wild for medical uses. …

I think it is really a beetroot (Beta vugaris). Just there are many different sorts. This seems something in direction of Swiss chard. Probably the seeds got mixed.

The plant in the second figure seems ok. When trunk is wet, shadowed, the tomato tend to create new roots, and this is fine. I really don't like the trunk in the first figure and in last figure (thi …

Peaches, apricot, quince, medlar, etc. But other damage to fruits, like plums, tomatoes and grapes could make a strong and brown (russeting like) new peel on damaged parts. In your case, I think it i …

Additionally, both (like many other vegetables) are a lot less healthy that we think (still healthy anyway): to be able to commercialize, selections removed the more strong/bitter varieties (which were …

Some vegetables prefer clay, most are neutral (if there are enough nutrients). If you can, add some sand and good soil on top. … I doesn't think we (as human) we get problems, but it is also a good herbicide, so not so nice for vegetables. The choice of soil is much more important (heavy metals). …

I have often heavy rain and hail (also this year). Plants will recover. Just aubergine (which you didn't list) requires some stakes because of wind. Usually plants will recover (but if they were stil …

I would have two "journals". One about the plants, and one (which I think it maybe more important) about the work I do. Sow will be on both, but I'll do watering and a lot of other works. I would like …

I use a support pole, made from wood. Very long and strong. 1 feet (or more) should be underground. And 4-7 plastic laces per plant. This is more like professional stuff: so cheap. Weight of the pla …

It depends. But in your case, it should be fine: the plant seem vigorous, so it will not have problem to "dig" the new soil. Else, usually we do it in two year period: the first year we cover only hal …

And regularly get feedback from your vegetables: every year is different, every months has own problems. Also all discussion about not watering leaves. … You may be much more precise (which vegetables, where? how do you water things) not to overgeneralize. Thumb rules in my region may be wrong on other places. …

On other vegetables I may visually check, and often I water every few days (or once a week at beginning season, if weather is not too hot). …