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I have a small yard, about 450 square feet, that I have seeded with Penncross Creeping Bentgrass. I used seed. This is the second year and I overseeded this year because I had a few spots I damaged with liquid fertilizer that was too strong (hot).

I have new grass growing in the ares of need and some in the among the existing grass. I've used guide from Penncross on Seedland and it works great for general information. I am struggling to figure out when I should mow the lawn. For new lawn I've found several links that say 30 days is when you can expect to mow. I'm concerned if I wait too long that the existing grass will grow tall and choke out the new seedlings. So my question is, when can I start to mow my overseeded lawn that is overseeded with Penncross Creeping Bentgrass?

I use a manual reel mower and I usually mow at a height of 3/4". After 14 days I have seed that has germinated and I have some existing grass that is over 3" tall. I feel like the tall grass needs to be tamed so the Penncross can thrive and fully take over. Then maybe I can start to cut this stuff down near 3/16" and practice my putting :).

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Its tricky business the problem isn't that new grass doesn't like being cut or won't recover from being cut. The problem is that the roots of the new grass may or may not be strong enough to withstand being say run over by the wheels of a lawn mower or the grass may be ripped out rather than cut.

What I tend to do is step on new grass (not stomp) but step on it from time to time. Then I watter it and let it raise again. Before I mow new grass I always go give it a tug and mess with the soil at its base in order to see how loose it is.

This answer to your question is going to vary depending on your environment and the precautions or steps you took in order to get it ready for mowing. Generally speaking if you can give it a tug without it ripping right out of the ground and the blades on your mower are sharp then it should be fine.

  • Do you think the new seedlings can get choked out by the existing grass that is growing tall? That was another one of my concerns. – user349062 Aug 3 '18 at 22:11
  • @user349062 Its possible (depending on the thickness of the grass surrounding it) however, it is unlikely in my opinion. That being said I see no reason you can't cut the longer grass without disturbing the shorter grass. I would try to settle on around 1 1/2" for the whole of the lawn for your first cut. Let it grow to about 2" and then cut it down to about 1/2" and dress it. Let it grow again to about 1" and then cut it down to your desired height and dress it again; then roll it and have some fun. – Rob Aug 6 '18 at 17:15
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How long ago did you overseed with this bent grass? If you overseeded because of a few bare spots the rest of your lawn needs to be mowed. If it is 3" tall, cut it down now to 2". Next week cut it to 1". Then your other new grasses should have caught up and you should be able to get it to 5/16. The next mow at 4 weeks you should be able to cut to 3/16 and your grass will be happy. Does your reel lawn mower have bagging capacity? You have to remove the clippings. So says my golf crazy hubby (and me too)!

I am grinning. I don't know golf at all but my hubby is emphatically saying to NOT practice on your lawn with irons. Only use putters. If you don't know how to 'sweep'? the ball off the grass without digging a divot don't practice on your lawn. It will look like a practice range. Is this why you over seeded? How fascinating! The vast majority of golfers do not have the swing or the club control to not make divots so says my very meticulous and experienced golfer hubby.

Fertilize with extended release fertilizer if you are able to find extended release fertilizer for your lawn. Slower is better for the grass plants. Remember; Less is best, More is Death and none is dumb. Never over fertilize. Why did you say 'hot'? That term is used for raw manure normally.

  • Let's see here. So for when I over-seeded was on 7/21/2018. That was 15 days ago. Does that change your answer? I don't have a bag so I'll need to pick up the clippings as best I can. I'll only be doing short chipping and putting on this surface. Well, the kids will be running around on it too. My feeding is a little complex. I use Neptune's Harvest Kelp Meal, Crab Sand, and Liquid Turf Builder. Oh and I also some hummus from a local supplier to supplement the K Potassium. The "hot" was too much liquid fertilizer in one spot, too much N Nitrogen. I miss calculated the amount to use. – user349062 Aug 5 '18 at 22:51
  • Whoa, definitely complex, grins! Your older grasses are your priority and at 3" you will have to cut it down 1/3 per week no sooner. Other wise you risk your entire lawn getting infected by something invaded by something. What type of application are you using? Certainly you aren't throwing fertilizer on the lawn by hand, right? Grins, if you are you gotta get yourself a simple, cheapo rotary hand spreader. Scott's makes one. For overseeding a few divots I would not worry about the new seeds, just the bulk of your lawn. Mow no more than 1/3 of the blade cut off per week. – stormy Aug 5 '18 at 23:03
  • If you are serious about maintaining your lawn in the most efficient way, you need to get a bagging reel mower, or a bag for your mower. Those clippings take time to decompose and need lots of Nitrogen to feed the decomposers. Do you have thatch? I am going to give you the name of a fertilizer (oh so very organic) that will make your life and your lawn happy. Dr. Earth's Lawn Fertilizer. More expensive but you'll need fewer applications so the cost evens. It has beneficial fungi, bacteria and micro chemistry as well. Slow to show but that is good. Bacteria specifically for thatch, btw. – stormy Aug 5 '18 at 23:07
  • Do you know what caused these bare spots two years in a row? – stormy Aug 5 '18 at 23:10
  • Do you own a 'blower'? You could blow the clippings off the lawn as well as the walks and driveway and beds? – stormy Aug 5 '18 at 23:11

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