You should always used bagged potting soil for any plant in a pot and especially to germinate seeds. Sterilization by boiling water is not enough. It needs to be baked for at least 15 minutes on high heat. All seeds germinate on different time schedules. These seeds just might be some indigenous plant that was already in your soil that germinates quickly. What were the directions on your packet? Was this meant to be sowed out in the wild, or a cultivated garden?
This garden soil and this wet is going to make it tough to germinate your seeds. Not only moisture is necessary to soak the seed but air is critical as well. Part of drainage are the roots themselves sucking up water. There are not enough roots on these two babies and the seeds might just rot before germination.
I'd get another flat like this one, a bag of potting soil (no fertilizer added no water holding sponges or granules) fill those little divided holes with just soil, firm that soil down by bouncing and shaking the tray. Spray water on top to moisten JUST 1/2 inch no more. Divide the seeds into 'like' seeds buy looks. place a seed on top of the soil then push the seed gently into the soil to its proper depth seed planting guide determined by the size of the seed.
I plant twice the widest part of the seed. I think this article gives the same rule as well. Large seeds are planted deeper than tiny seed. I always cover with a dome of plastic or make my own little polytunnel using Saranwrap and popsicle sticks and tuck the ends beneath the tray. When the top of the soil starts to get dry, don't allow to dry all the way, I spray it with water to moisten. You seed needs moisture to soften and allow the seed to grow. Too much moisture, that seed will suffocate, drown. Seeds also need warmth. Light is not that big of a deal as they are in darkness but light is necessary as soon as you see germination. I use grow lights for starts. At least 200, 300 watt fluorescent. These you can lower right on top of your germinating seeds without frying them. At least 4" clearance. Warm room or a warm grow pad beneath the seed tray. Timer to turn the lights off for nighty night. Grins. Daylight hours 16 to 18 hours at least 6 hours of darkness.
Label your seed trays with and example of one of your seeds taped to the label with clear scotch tape. You want to remember what it was you planted. With the seed and a more mature baby plant we should be able to help identify which is which. Call the company or pull their site up on the internet. They should be able to tell you which seed goes to which of those 4 plants.
If any of these seeds make it, when roots start coming out of the bottom, transplant into 3" or 4" max sized pots with potting soil! When roots begin to grow out of the bottom drain hole in those, up pot again into a 1 gallon pot or 6" diameter pot using potting soil. When the roots begin to fill this pot you should then be able to transplant in the garden or pasture or sell. Each one labeled correctly and date of germination.
By the time your plants make it to the 3 or 4" pots, a little fertilizer is in order. To keep it simple use OSMOCOTE 14-14-14 extended release. Use half of what they recommend. Remember these little plants will be transplanted one more time, or more. With fresh potting soil add a little OSMOCOTE.
Before they are able to be transplanted in the garden or the large body of soil out of doors these plants will need to be acclimated to the out of doors. There are trays that will hold 4 of the round 1 gallon pots or 6 to eight of the square 1 gallon pots. This will help to carry the plants out side beginning with 10 minutes for 3 or 4 days, then 20 minutes for 3 or 4 days then an hour for a week, 2 hours for 2 weeks, then 4 hours for a week...until you get to up to 16 hours out of doors. As long as there is no chance of frost/freezing allow them to stay out all night for a week. This is but a sample schedule. You should be able to get the idea, watching your plants and knowing your zone, weather you might be able to speed up this acclimation or possibly drag it out further. Your new plants should be planted in their forever homes at least a month and 1/2 before any chance of frost is possible to allow them establish well. A soil test before fertilization of your garden soil. Decomposed organic matter spread on top of soil around the base (not considered fertilizer). Trees planted so that only the roots are below the soil. Nothing even mulch should touch the bark of your baby trunks. Plant directly into your soil without any amendments. The depth of that pot should be the depth of your hole or rather the depth of your root ball is the depth of that hole no deeper. That root ball should sit on undisturbed subsoil.
Send pictures once you've up potted the first time. Call the seed company to find out which seed is what. This packet must have been meant to throw willy nilly into a pasture or meadow like wild flowers. They are thinking that 99 percent of those seeds will never germinate or mature into a shrub/tree. I like that you want to make full use of these seeds to be able to plant them according to their mature height and width. The one gallon gallon plants will require at least an 8' distance from another tree or shrub for health. That seed company should be able to give you proper spacing of each species...or we can help with that when you get them to the proper size for transplanting.
Use potting soil, trust me. Don't start watering deeply until you've got at least 4 or more" of growth in the starter trays. Then allow to dry before watering again. This soil is heavy and saturated. I doubt you'll get any more germination. I am betting this is an Alder that loves wet feet.