You do not want to solarize the soil. This also kills beneficials that your lawn depends upon for health. You do not want to rototill that lawn. Make sure your lawn has a bit of a slope 1-2% to drain where you want it to drain. DO NOT USE BARK CHIPS IN THE LAWN BED. Undecomposed stuff needs nitrogen to feed the decomposer crews. Takes awhile to decompose. Don't use non decomposed anything in your soils unless you are able to wait a year or two and use more nitrogen than normal which could hamper certain plants, burn others and it would be tough to monitor correctly.
You DO WANT TO ROLL. Excellent you picked up on that. If that lawn is healthy with deep roots why would you need to renovate? Need more information about that from you. Rake and rake and rake, roll and if there are any depressions or bumps rake them out and roll again! You are maintaining or creating a healthy lawn bed. Please send pictures; up close and a wide view of all.
Maintenance techniques are your best friend to eradicate weeds and make your lawn more competitive, healthy. No weeds can grow if the grass shades the soil at 3". In addition, no weeds will thrive if you train your grass to have deep roots and only needs watering once per week at 1" each watering. The grass will be able to get at the water while the weeds with shallow root systems can not. Do not water again unless you see your footprints on the lawn. Shoot, I've written some great lawn care ESSAYS on here...please look them up! The lawn is a very curious creature that needs understanding to not eat up the bucks!
I've just written a thorough essay on lawn care...the important points are mowing height (3" no less), aeration (pulling plugs) once a year or twice, mow once or more per week, sharp blades, great fertilizer (no fast stuff by Scott's or Ortho) find slow release organic lawn fertilizer with bacteria to decompose thatch. Worth every penny and you don't need to fertilize as often (Dr. Earth for an example), always use a mechanical spreader never do by hand, no shade (give it up grass only thrives in sun) and water deeply then allow to dry before watering again. Bag do not mulch unless you've got a pasture to deal with. Grass growth slows at 3" so that you are only doing 'buzz cuts' with little debris. Trust me, no shorter than 3" and get the ruler out to make sure. Go find all the stuff on lawns on this site!! Of course these rules are different for warm season grasses than the cool season grasses that I am referring to. Not much of this information can be ignored if you want a healthy, vigorous, no weeds and drought tolerance to save on your water bill.