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So, after so many dead plant and ruts, I have come to realize that for some reason, my plants seem to contract some fungal issue most every week. I am not exactly sure why but I have had to pluck up brown roots from most all of my current stock at least 1 every week in January and I wonder how much longer I can keep this up. I have resorted to soaking the roots in fungicide solution before replanting, and this of course is after changing out the potting soil failed. I have made certain to test and retest drainage on most all the posts, even adding stones and more holes to help in any way possible but somehow the roots keep getting infected after a couple of days. How can I completely rid my plants of fungal infections for pete's sake?

Thanks in advance.

  • 1
    More information needed please - what symptoms are you seeing on the topgrowth of your plants? What are the plants, seedlings or actual plants, and what plants are they? Where are you keeping the pots (greenhouse, outside, indoors?) – Bamboo Jan 31 '15 at 12:44
  • I am talking of all my plants here, flowers, succulent etc and they are all indoor. – user272671 Jan 31 '15 at 14:48
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I would also suggest that you only water the plants in the morning when the excess water will evaporate in the sunlight. I made this mistake several times with midnight watering which caused my salvia, Rosemary and lemon verbena to drown first then get fungal disease.

4

Your question has more context when we read your first question about night blooming jasmine dying back.

It appears that your indoor plants are dying and you don't know, but suspect, virus/fungus/bacteria.

You can try these actions and see if they help:

  • get rid of all existing potting soil
  • wash all your empty pots in soap and water and scrub off all mineral and soil deposits
  • disinfect all trimmers, pruners, scissors with bleach
  • from your comments I also recommend that you do not use moisture control potting soil unless you can supply a high light environment.
  • reexamine your watering practices. Studies have shown that the majority of indoor plant deaths are due to overwatering
  • consider capillary mats or water wicks to supply only what the plants need

Buy a test plant and put in a separate area from your other plants. Ensure that the light and temperature requirements of the plant are met. Do not repot it, do not treat with anything on arrival.

Many of the virus/fungus/bacteria problems that indoors plants face come from these sources:

  • too much water leads to soggy soil with no air pockets. Roots die and provide an entry point.
  • cool temperatures and moist can provide the right environment for some pathogens
  • soil splashing onto leaves can be a vector for some pathogens but this is rarer in indoor plants
  • growers can have even more problems with pathogens which can infect an entire crop.See this production guide for Christmas cactus as an example of the problems that can happen. In some cases a newly purchased plant can look good but already be infected. The best solution is to provide an optimum environment with minimum shock. (There is no need to repot a new plant right away, wait and observe)
  • I already tried getting rid of all potting soil. In fact, I threw all my old soil away and purchased brand new potting soil but to no avail. I got brand new pots and got rid of the old ones as well. My scissors is still less than 2 months old. I suspect the fungus is as a result of the soil remaining soggy for longer than the plant can take, I guess. – user272671 Jan 31 '15 at 14:41
  • I have just about tried your suggestions above, only this last December/January, I threw out all old soil, and containers and even got me a new pair of scissors to use. Unfortunately, that has yet to solve it all. I did add calcium, diatomaceous earth and Azomine, but I am thinking I may need to add some more of that to the soil again or maybe soak the planter, soil and all, in a solution of fungicide. – user272671 Jan 31 '15 at 14:45
  • I found out two weeks ago that it might be the case that thirst could be a contributing factor to the wilting I continually observe right before death -- I use moisture control potting soil which does way more controlling than it ought to, so I resorted to soaking the planters in a bath of water and allowing the water diffuse into the soil, thereby providing the plant the needed water but I am afraid that didn't help in resolving the issue – user272671 Jan 31 '15 at 14:47
  • Of course my next step also includes introducing perlite so the soil can further breath and drain but I am not hanging my hope on that either. – user272671 Jan 31 '15 at 14:52
  • Sounds like you're overwatering, to me – J. Musser Jan 31 '15 at 16:30
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I'm still not possessing enough information about the problem, but from what I can glean throughout your comments, it seems you observe the plants wilting before dying. You also say you've tried brand new pots and brand new potting compost, and that you use a moisture control compost, and don't overwater.

Nonetheless, it sounds likely the plants are suffering from too much water, though its hard to be definite with so little information. Four questions - when you water, you presumably do it when the surface of the compost feels dry to the touch, but not so dry its shrunken from the sides of the pot? Second, do you water thoroughly when you do it? Third question, what are the plants standing in to stop water flooding your home or furniture? If they're standing in an outer pot or tray, do you empty that tray or pot 30 minutes after watering, and then again 30 minutes later if necessary, or do you leave any water that collects to sit there? If you are doing the latter, that could be the cause of plant death.

  • Too much? I water ONCE A WEEK. I have had to shred styrofoam and add it to my soil to help improve drainage an that seems to work but I am yet to get to all the pots but watering is what I do once a week. – user272671 Jul 30 '15 at 21:14

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