Use glyphosate, Roundup and spray on the clover. Let it work for 3 weeks. Scalp your lawn, mowing it down to 1 1/2". The last time you'll be mowing it that short...
Thatch if there is an 1" of compacted roots, rake up the debris. If you haven't aerated, do so.
Use an aerator that pulls plugs of soil out of the ground and leave them on top to disintegrate.
If you can find a place that makes, sells and delivers this compost made from human poo and sawdust, get enough to cover your lawn one half to one inch. It shouldn't smell or look anything like the original products. Rake this into your lawn, mixing it in with the plugs and soil. The people you purchase this from should be able to come out and spray it on your lawn for you quite quickly.
Get a roller that you fill with water and roll over your lawn, raking when necessary to make a firm, smooth bed for your new lawn.
Then reseed with the best lawn seed for your area you can find. On the label it should say zero weed seed. Spread the seed with a rotary hand spreader. Keep going over it in all directions until you've used the amount of seed stated in the directions on your seed package.
Using a metal leaf rake, lightly rake the seed into the soil.
Roll your lawn again to get good contact of seed and soil.
Water with a fine sprinkler so that just the top inch or so is moist. Don't soak at this point. Do this 3 or 4 times a day or whatever it takes to keep the top moist, continually. When the grass is 3 1/2 " to 4" tall (this should take 2 weeks of watering), allow the soil to dry a bit and mow to 3". No shorter! Make sure your blades are sharp. At this point, use your bagger and put the clippings in your compost.
Fertilize with an organic, extended release fertilizer. I use Dr. Earth's Lawn Fertilizer because it is incredible. Worth the money and lasts longer. Comes with beneficial bacteria that will prevent thatch. Fertilize at least twice per season. Fertilize in the fall with a fertilizer lower in nitrogen than the phosphorus and potassium. Maybe Dr. Earth has a late season fertilizer for lawns by now.
I've redone so many lawns in my career, this was the least expensive, but lots of manual labor and religious watering. The hardest thing was getting people used to the idea of 3" lawns instead of 1" lawns. If your grass seed is like ours in the Pacific Northwest, it grows grass that has, genetically, large root systems. To feed these root systems, the grass needs a minimum of 3" top-growth. I used to use 2 1/2", but 3" made the difference. Any shorter and the grass is stressed. Stressed plants aren't able to compete with weeds. 3" shades the soil, keeping seeds from germinating that are deposited by birds and wind and also keeps the roots cooler, the soil from baking into bricks.
Once you've begun mowing you now need to train these roots to grow deep. This will save water in the long run and make your lawn drought-tolerant. Water so that the water soaks in down to 3" the first week. Allow to dry out. Don't water until your footprints on the grass stay down. Then water deeply, this time to 4", allow to dry until your footprints stay down. Allow to dry out before watering again. Keep doing this until you are watering 6" deep. Note the time it takes to water this deeply. It should take a whole week before you need to water again. Your lawn will be lush, cool to walk upon, no bees pollinating the clover and a deep, healthy green.
Never miss a week's mowing. In fact, mow twice a week if you can. If your blades aren't sharp you'll notice a 'haze' caused by the torn ends of your grass. Get a second set of blades you can sharpen and easily change out for the dull ones on your mower. Make sure the edges of your grass are the same 3" thickness, no lower.
After a few months, you'll notice your grass isn't growing as fast (grass slows its growth past 3" so you shouldn't be taking off much every week anyway) and the color isn't quite as green. Fertilize again just before you water. Use your hand spreader!! No throwing of fertilizer by hand! Blow it off your concrete walks, curbs back onto the grass so you don't risk iron-staining. You shouldn't have to bag your clippings unless you've missed a mowing. If you have, just don't take more than 1/3 of the blade off at a time. This will be tough as your mower will probably be on its highest setting already! I'd use my line trimmer to take off a little at a time with a few days in-between until I could use my mower. I'd definitely use my bagger to suck up the dead grass my weed wacker (line-trimmer)left behind.
Aerate once per year. Water deeply (early in the day as night watering will cause fungus amungus in grass and plaunts) and allow to dry out before watering again. Keep the length of grass at 3". Fertilize with extended release, organic fertilizer 2 - 3X per year. Let it go into winter at 3". Don' t walk on your lawn when it is frosted or frozen. Snow is O.K. If you do walk on your frozen grass it will kill it and you'll have to reseed your footprints in the spring.
How are your edges? Send a picture and I can give you information on how to do your edges, which are pretty important, visually. Also, if you can find that compost, use that on your plant beds instead of bark. You'll be blown away by your plants' health! Don't use coffee grinds! Too acidic! Lawns like a pH of 6.5-7.0. Get a soil test done to find the pH of your soil. If it is too low, use lime and the directions on the package to raise your pH. Do this while you are waiting for the glyphosate to kill the roots of your clover. You should have a second test done anyway after you get your grass growing.
And lastly, you could rent a sod-cutter (all these tools can be rented by the way) get rid of your entire lawn, weeds and grass. Then lime, compost, rake, roll, seed, fertilize, rake, roll and then re-sod. I'd check to see how expensive everything is either way. If you can't find the human sludge/sawdust that is completely decomposed, get bags of the best decomposed compost you can find. No peat moss, too acidic and sheds water. Decomposed means that you shouldn't be able to recognize anything in the mixture. No bad smells, no sticks, stones, chunks of plants. It should be crumbly and uniform in texture. Ask to be allowed to see, feel and smell the stuff before you buy it.
Once you've got a healthy lawn, all that work will have been worthwhile. Let us know what you decide to do and send before and AFTER pictures!