Timeline for Counteracting Black Walnut or Cedar mulch
Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0
14 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sep 26, 2016 at 17:41 | answer | added | Tyler K. | timeline score: 1 | |
| Sep 25, 2016 at 22:03 | history | bumped | CommunityBot | This question has answers that may be good or bad; the system has marked it active so that they can be reviewed. | |
| Aug 26, 2016 at 21:25 | history | bumped | CommunityBot | This question has answers that may be good or bad; the system has marked it active so that they can be reviewed. | |
| Jul 27, 2016 at 20:43 | answer | added | ench | timeline score: 1 | |
| Jul 26, 2016 at 6:24 | history | bumped | CommunityBot | This question has answers that may be good or bad; the system has marked it active so that they can be reviewed. | |
| Jun 27, 2016 at 22:08 | comment | added | Traveler | We also laid them down in the food forest which has apple, pear, cherry, peach, nectarine, asian pear, and fig trees. I'm not sure it will affect the trees too much as they are 3 or 4 years old and pretty well established. Unfortunately, we also put them on the raised beds for the blueberries, raspberries, and grapes. I have added bloodmeal (nitrogen) and epsom salt to the beds I'm most concerned about and will see if it helps them. If so, I'll leave things be. If not, I'll have a lot of mulch to remove. :-( | |
| Jun 27, 2016 at 22:01 | comment | added | Traveler | The chippings were fresh when I laid them down about 6 months ago. They are in all the garden pathways about 4" deep and on some of the raised beds (about 2" deep). Unfortunately, they are on the potato bed and on the beds with tomatoes and peppers. I think I will remove them from those beds. | |
| Jun 26, 2016 at 5:48 | answer | added | Paul Nardini | timeline score: 1 | |
| Jun 25, 2016 at 22:48 | comment | added | Bamboo | Get the mulch off the soil and use something else instead, that's the first thing to do. | |
| Jun 25, 2016 at 20:30 | comment | added | stormy | Dang... and epsom salts are good if you know what you are doing and why you are doing what. Will cause more acidity in the soil, great for acid loving plants not so good for more alkaline loving plants. Before you do anything like that please get a reliable soil test and sounds like this would be a good time to do so. Cooperative Extension services from nearest University is free or very cheap! | |
| Jun 25, 2016 at 20:26 | comment | added | stormy | Trees like walnut, cedar and others don't want their own seeds germinating so close so the parent tree actually puts out toxins to stop germination of their own seeds. The tree is savvy enough to not want new trees albeit their own 'babies' to compete with the parent. So the allelopathy is specific to that particular tree. MULCH should be completely DECOMPOSED. Fresh wood chips should only be used for weed suppression in large wilder areas. Best mulch I have ever found is human poop plus sawdust decomposed and tested 5X by the feds at citysewage plants. Or my own decomposed garden debris. | |
| Jun 25, 2016 at 20:17 | comment | added | stormy | Arghhhh...first question is were these clippings fresh or decomposed? What are you mulching? How deep are these chippings, esp. around the base of woody plants. Do you have any azaleas, hydrangeas, or other shallow rooted plants (bad to mulch more than 1/2 inch deep)? Send pictures. What the heck do you mean allelopathic affect? Black walnut (btw is very toxic stuff), even woodworkers using Juglans have to clean every thing up to go on to different woods, and wear masks. Mulch works by feeding the soil and not allowing sun to the soil for germination. | |
| Jun 25, 2016 at 18:29 | review | First posts | |||
| Jun 25, 2016 at 19:35 | |||||
| Jun 25, 2016 at 18:27 | history | asked | Traveler | CC BY-SA 3.0 |