- Firstly, they're almost always invisible.
- Secondly, they don't really do any noticeable damage to outdoor plants unless it's both hot and dry. The hotter and dryer it gets, the more damage I notice.
- On indoor plants, they seem to do the least damage when it's cool and the most when it's warm (whether or not it's dry). So, if you don't heat a room that has plants in it, they may cause less damage.
- Spraying outdoor plants down with regular water every day or two seems to stop them from damaging the plants (it works for indoor plants, too, but it's more tedious and needs to be done more often). I'm not really sure why. Maybe they're thirsty. Maybe it sprays them off the plants. I don't know, but it works (no need to use soap and stuff; regular water works fine).
- They do more damage to peppers indoors than outdoors (they left my outdoor peppers alone, both the hot and the sweet peppers).
- They very noticeably afflict the following outdoor plants: apple trees, watermelon, ground cherries, garden huckleberries, tomatillos, pepino melons, eggplants, and roses (the leaves).
- They affected litchi tomatoes, too, but less severely.
- They seem to afflict regular tomatoes on rare occasions, but leave most of them alone. They may have affected my cucumbers and Shark Fin Melon, but I'm not 100% sure.
- My muskmelons and Red-seeded Citron watermelon were mostly unafflicted, but that could have just been the location (hopefully not, though).
- They seem to be capable of infesting most houseplants, although the damage seems to be less than to outdoor garden plants when it's hot and dry (and less than the damage to indoor peppers).
- They did not noticeably affect the following outdoor plants: peppers, Ethiopian eggplant (Burkina Faso), weeds, peach trees, nectarine trees, cabbage, arugula, milk thistle, mizuna, our apricot tree, and other stuff.
- Attempting to entirely eliminate spider mites does not seem to be a very practical endeavor by most approaches. However, you might try predatory mites, which are supposed to eat them. Be careful not to kill any predatory mites that already exist (they may appear to be spider mites if you're not careful). There may be effective pesitcides, but spider mites can gain resistance fairly quickly, as I understand it.
- On indoor plants they spin webs from the soil to the plant often (especially when either the soil dries out or first becomes wet). I'm not really sure why they do this, unless they partially live in the soil or something. However, it's possible that if you cut them off from the soil, they may be less prolific. So, mulching might potentially help considerably. We didn't mulch any of our plants that have had spider mite problems. So, I can't tell you how effective this is.
- On my indoor pepper, spider mites caused significantly less damage when I applied sea minerals, but they would eventually cause damage again until I used them again. I recommend a foliar spray since that would be less likely to make the soil too salty quickly. The excess salt in sea minerals can indeed cause problems if you use too much (but it takes a while before it gets to that point). I purposefully used too much (directly in the soil) to discover this. It's possible that using sea minerals on the leaves may protect the plant more than applying it to the soil does, but I'm not sure, since I haven't tried it, yet (my pepper plant is now in a container outdoors; hopefully it'll recover from all that salt now that it has new soil; the roots may have rotted, however, perhaps due to the stagnation of growth caused by the excess of sea minerals or the smallness of the container).
- On my indoor pepper, spider mites caused by far the most damage on new growth.
- I've read that spider mites can contribute to the spread of anthracnose. I'm not sure if that's true, but it seems anthracnose does perhaps often coincide with spider mite infections. So, if you grow watermelons, anthracnose-tolerant varieties may be helpful.
- Spider mite webs are said to help protect them against predators, but in my observation, they seem to use them to travel to new locations, too. Although spider mites are said not to move very fast (I can't see them; so, I don't know if this is really true for our species), they do infect neighboring plants rather quickly indoors (within a day or two). They may or may not spread so quickly outdoors. Clearing the webs might help some.
- The damage to outdoor plants appears different than the damage to indoor plants. Affected outdoor plants may have webs on them. The leaves may appear speckled. On indoor plants, they seem to cause leaf deformities, and little spots that can turn into edema if it's humid. They can spin webs to close up leaves. They can cause leaves to curl.
- Faster-growing plants seem to have an advantage. You might consider giving them more nitrogen to see if it helps. Our plants had lots of rockdust and potassium, which could slow growth increase the need for nitrogen. They were kind of slow-growing.
- Firstly, they're almost always invisible.
- Secondly, they don't really do any noticeable damage to outdoor plants unless it's both hot and dry. The hotter and dryer it gets, the more damage I notice.
- On indoor plants, they seem to do the least damage when it's cool and the most when it's warm (whether or not it's dry). So, if you don't heat a room that has plants in it, they may cause less damage.
- Spraying outdoor plants down with regular water every day or two seems to stop them from damaging the plants (it works for indoor plants, too, but it's more tedious and needs to be done more often). I'm not really sure why. Maybe they're thirsty. Maybe it sprays them off the plants. I don't know, but it works (no need to use soap and stuff; regular water works fine).
- They do more damage to peppers indoors than outdoors (they left my outdoor peppers alone, both the hot and the sweet peppers).
- They very noticeably afflict the following outdoor plants: apple trees, watermelon, ground cherries, garden huckleberries, tomatillos, pepino melons, eggplants, and roses (the leaves).
- They affected litchi tomatoes, too, but less severely.
- They seem to afflict regular tomatoes on rare occasions, but leave most of them alone. They may have affected my cucumbers and Shark Fin Melon, but I'm not 100% sure.
- My muskmelons and Red-seeded Citron watermelon were mostly unafflicted, but that could have just been the location (hopefully not, though).
- They seem to be capable of infesting most houseplants, although the damage seems to be less than to outdoor garden plants when it's hot and dry (and less than the damage to indoor peppers).
- They did not noticeably affect the following outdoor plants: peppers, Ethiopian eggplant (Burkina Faso), weeds, peach trees, nectarine trees, cabbage, arugula, milk thistle, mizuna, our apricot tree, and other stuff.
- Attempting to entirely eliminate spider mites does not seem to be a very practical endeavor by most approaches. However, you might try predatory mites, which are supposed to eat them. Be careful not to kill any predatory mites that already exist (they may appear to be spider mites if you're not careful). There may be effective pesitcides, but spider mites can gain resistance fairly quickly, as I understand it.
- On indoor plants they spin webs from the soil to the plant often (especially when either the soil dries out or first becomes wet). I'm not really sure why they do this, unless they partially live in the soil or something. However, it's possible that if you cut them off from the soil, they may be less prolific. So, mulching might potentially help considerably. We didn't mulch any of our plants that have had spider mite problems. So, I can't tell you how effective this is.
- On my indoor pepper, spider mites caused significantly less damage when I applied sea minerals, but they would eventually cause damage again until I used them again. I recommend a foliar spray since that would be less likely to make the soil too salty quickly. The excess salt in sea minerals can indeed cause problems if you use too much (but it takes a while before it gets to that point). I purposefully used too much (directly in the soil) to discover this. It's possible that using sea minerals on the leaves may protect the plant more than applying it to the soil does, but I'm not sure, since I haven't tried it, yet (my pepper plant is now in a container outdoors; hopefully it'll recover from all that salt now that it has new soil; the roots may have rotted, however, perhaps due to the stagnation of growth caused by the excess of sea minerals or the smallness of the container).
- On my indoor pepper, spider mites caused by far the most damage on new growth.
- I've read that spider mites can contribute to the spread of anthracnose. I'm not sure if that's true, but it seems anthracnose does perhaps often coincide with spider mite infections. So, if you grow watermelons, anthracnose-tolerant varieties may be helpful.
- Spider mite webs are said to help protect them against predators, but in my observation, they seem to use them to travel to new locations, too. Although spider mites are said not to move very fast (I can't see them; so, I don't know if this is really true for our species), they do infect neighboring plants rather quickly indoors (within a day or two). They may or may not spread so quickly outdoors. Clearing the webs might help some.
- The damage to outdoor plants appears different than the damage to indoor plants. Affected outdoor plants may have webs on them. The leaves may appear speckled. On indoor plants, they seem to cause leaf deformities, and little spots that can turn into edema if it's humid. They can spin webs to close up leaves. They can cause leaves to curl.
- Firstly, they're almost always invisible.
- Secondly, they don't really do any noticeable damage to outdoor plants unless it's both hot and dry. The hotter and dryer it gets, the more damage I notice.
- On indoor plants, they seem to do the least damage when it's cool and the most when it's warm (whether or not it's dry). So, if you don't heat a room that has plants in it, they may cause less damage.
- Spraying outdoor plants down with regular water every day or two seems to stop them from damaging the plants (it works for indoor plants, too, but it's more tedious and needs to be done more often). I'm not really sure why. Maybe they're thirsty. Maybe it sprays them off the plants. I don't know, but it works (no need to use soap and stuff; regular water works fine).
- They do more damage to peppers indoors than outdoors (they left my outdoor peppers alone, both the hot and the sweet peppers).
- They very noticeably afflict the following outdoor plants: apple trees, watermelon, ground cherries, garden huckleberries, tomatillos, pepino melons, eggplants, and roses (the leaves).
- They affected litchi tomatoes, too, but less severely.
- They seem to afflict regular tomatoes on rare occasions, but leave most of them alone. They may have affected my cucumbers and Shark Fin Melon, but I'm not 100% sure.
- My muskmelons and Red-seeded Citron watermelon were mostly unafflicted, but that could have just been the location (hopefully not, though).
- They seem to be capable of infesting most houseplants, although the damage seems to be less than to outdoor garden plants when it's hot and dry (and less than the damage to indoor peppers).
- They did not noticeably affect the following outdoor plants: peppers, Ethiopian eggplant (Burkina Faso), weeds, peach trees, nectarine trees, cabbage, arugula, milk thistle, mizuna, our apricot tree, and other stuff.
- Attempting to entirely eliminate spider mites does not seem to be a very practical endeavor by most approaches. However, you might try predatory mites, which are supposed to eat them. Be careful not to kill any predatory mites that already exist (they may appear to be spider mites if you're not careful). There may be effective pesitcides, but spider mites can gain resistance fairly quickly, as I understand it.
- On indoor plants they spin webs from the soil to the plant often (especially when either the soil dries out or first becomes wet). I'm not really sure why they do this, unless they partially live in the soil or something. However, it's possible that if you cut them off from the soil, they may be less prolific. So, mulching might potentially help considerably. We didn't mulch any of our plants that have had spider mite problems. So, I can't tell you how effective this is.
- On my indoor pepper, spider mites caused significantly less damage when I applied sea minerals, but they would eventually cause damage again until I used them again. I recommend a foliar spray since that would be less likely to make the soil too salty quickly. The excess salt in sea minerals can indeed cause problems if you use too much (but it takes a while before it gets to that point). I purposefully used too much (directly in the soil) to discover this. It's possible that using sea minerals on the leaves may protect the plant more than applying it to the soil does, but I'm not sure, since I haven't tried it, yet (my pepper plant is now in a container outdoors; hopefully it'll recover from all that salt now that it has new soil; the roots may have rotted, however, perhaps due to the stagnation of growth caused by the excess of sea minerals or the smallness of the container).
- On my indoor pepper, spider mites caused by far the most damage on new growth.
- I've read that spider mites can contribute to the spread of anthracnose. I'm not sure if that's true, but it seems anthracnose does perhaps often coincide with spider mite infections. So, if you grow watermelons, anthracnose-tolerant varieties may be helpful.
- Spider mite webs are said to help protect them against predators, but in my observation, they seem to use them to travel to new locations, too. Although spider mites are said not to move very fast (I can't see them; so, I don't know if this is really true for our species), they do infect neighboring plants rather quickly indoors (within a day or two). They may or may not spread so quickly outdoors. Clearing the webs might help some.
- The damage to outdoor plants appears different than the damage to indoor plants. Affected outdoor plants may have webs on them. The leaves may appear speckled. On indoor plants, they seem to cause leaf deformities, and little spots that can turn into edema if it's humid. They can spin webs to close up leaves. They can cause leaves to curl.
- Faster-growing plants seem to have an advantage. You might consider giving them more nitrogen to see if it helps. Our plants had lots of rockdust and potassium, which could slow growth increase the need for nitrogen. They were kind of slow-growing.
- Firstly, they're almost always invisible.
- Secondly, they don't really do any noticeable damage to outdoor plants unless it's both hot and dry. The hotter and dryer it gets, the more damage I notice.
- On indoor plants, they seem to do the least damage when it's cool and the most when it's warm (whether or not it's dry). So, if you don't heat a room that has plants in it, they may cause less damage.
- Spraying outdoor plants down with regular water every day or two seems to stop them from damaging the plants (it works for indoor plants, too, but it's more tedious and needs to be done more often). I'm not really sure why. Maybe they're thirsty. Maybe it sprays them off the plants. I don't know, but it works (no need to use soap and stuff; regular water works fine).
- They do more damage to peppers indoors than outdoors (they left my outdoor peppers alone, both the hot and the sweet peppers).
- They very noticeably afflict the following outdoor plants: apple trees, watermelon, ground cherries, garden huckleberries, tomatillos, pepino melons, eggplants, and roses (the leaves).
- They affected litchi tomatoes, too, but less severely.
- They seem to afflict regular tomatoes on rare occasions, but leave most of them alone. They may have affected my cucumbers and Shark Fin Melon, but I'm not 100% sure.
- My muskmelons and Red-seeded Citron watermelon were mostly unafflicted, but that could have just been the location (hopefully not, though).
- They seem to be capable of infesting most houseplants, although the damage seems to be less than to outdoor garden plants when it's hot and dry (and less than the damage to indoor peppers).
- They did not noticeably affect the following outdoor plants: peppers, Ethiopian eggplant (Burkina Faso), weeds, peach trees, nectarine trees, cabbage, arugula, milk thistle, mizuna, our apricot tree, and other stuff.
- Attempting to entirely eliminate spider mites does not seem to be a very practical endeavor by most approaches. However, you might try predatory mites, which are supposed to eat them. Be careful not to kill any predatory mites that already exist (they may appear to be spider mites if you're not careful). There may be effective pesitcides, but spider mites can gain resistance fairly quickly, as I understand it.
- On indoor plants they spin webs from the soil to the plant often (especially when either the soil dries out or first becomes wet). I'm not really sure why they do this, unless they partially live in the soil or something. However, it's possible that if you cut them off from the soil, they may be less prolific. So, mulching might potentially help considerably. We didn't mulch any of our plants that have had spider mite problems. So, I can't tell you how effective this is.
- On my indoor pepper, spider mites caused significantly less damage when I applied sea minerals, but they would eventually cause damage again until I used them again. I recommend a foliar spray since that would be less likely to make the soil too salty quickly. The excess salt in sea minerals can indeed cause problems if you use too much (but it takes a while before it gets to that point). I purposefully used too much (directly in the soil) to discover this. It's possible that using sea minerals on the leaves may protect the plant more than applying it to the soil does, but I'm not sure, since I haven't tried it, yet (my pepper plant is now in a container outdoors; hopefully it'll recover from all that salt now that it has new soil; the roots may have rotted, however, perhaps due to the stagnation of growth caused by the excess of sea minerals or the smallness of the container).
- On my indoor pepper, spider mites caused by far the most damage on new growth.
- I've read that spider mites can contribute to the spread of anthracnose. I'm not sure if that's true, but it seems anthracnose does perhaps often coincide with spider mite infections. So, if you grow watermelons, anthracnose-tolerant varieties may be helpful.
- Spider mite webs are said to help protect them against predators, but in my observation, they seem to use them to travel to new locations, too. Although spider mites are said not to move very fast (I can't see them; so, I don't know if this is really true for our species), they do infect neighboring plants rather quickly indoors (within a day or two). They may or may not spread so quickly outdoors. Clearing the webs might help some.
- The damage to outdoor plants appears different than the damage to indoor plants. Affected outdoor plants may have webs on them. The leaves may appear speckled. On indoor plants, they seem to cause leaf deformities, and little spots that can turn into edema if it's humid. They can spin webs to close up leaves. They can cause leaves to curl.
- Firstly, they're almost always invisible.
- Secondly, they don't really do any noticeable damage to outdoor plants unless it's both hot and dry. The hotter and dryer it gets, the more damage I notice.
- On indoor plants, they seem to do the least damage when it's cool and the most when it's warm (whether or not it's dry). So, if you don't heat a room that has plants in it, they may cause less damage.
- Spraying outdoor plants down with regular water every day or two seems to stop them from damaging the plants (it works for indoor plants, too, but it's more tedious and needs to be done more often). I'm not really sure why. Maybe they're thirsty. Maybe it sprays them off the plants. I don't know, but it works (no need to use soap and stuff; regular water works fine).
- They do more damage to peppers indoors than outdoors (they left my outdoor peppers alone, both the hot and the sweet peppers).
- They very noticeably afflict the following outdoor plants: apple trees, watermelon, ground cherries, garden huckleberries, tomatillos, pepino melons, eggplants, and roses (the leaves).
- They affected litchi tomatoes, too, but less severely.
- They seem to afflict regular tomatoes on rare occasions, but leave most of them alone. They may have affected my cucumbers and Shark Fin Melon, but I'm not 100% sure.
- My muskmelons and Red-seeded Citron watermelon were mostly unafflicted, but that could have just been the location (hopefully not, though).
- They seem to be capable of infesting most houseplants, although the damage seems to be less than to outdoor garden plants when it's hot and dry (and less than the damage to indoor peppers).
- They did not noticeably affect the following outdoor plants: peppers, Ethiopian eggplant (Burkina Faso), weeds, peach trees, nectarine trees, cabbage, arugula, milk thistle, mizuna, our apricot tree, and other stuff.
- Attempting to entirely eliminate spider mites does not seem to be a very practical endeavor by most approaches. However, you might try predatory mites, which are supposed to eat them. Be careful not to kill any predatory mites that already exist (they may appear to be spider mites if you're not careful). There may be effective pesitcides, but spider mites can gain resistance fairly quickly, as I understand it.
- On indoor plants they spin webs from the soil to the plant often (especially when either the soil dries out or first becomes wet). I'm not really sure why they do this, unless they partially live in the soil or something. However, it's possible that if you cut them off from the soil, they may be less prolific. So, mulching might potentially help considerably. We didn't mulch any of our plants that have had spider mite problems. So, I can't tell you how effective this is.
- On my indoor pepper, spider mites caused significantly less damage when I applied sea minerals, but they would eventually cause damage again until I used them again. I recommend a foliar spray since that would be less likely to make the soil too salty quickly. The excess salt in sea minerals can indeed cause problems if you use too much (but it takes a while before it gets to that point). I purposefully used too much (directly in the soil) to discover this. It's possible that using sea minerals on the leaves may protect the plant more than applying it to the soil does, but I'm not sure, since I haven't tried it, yet (my pepper plant is now in a container outdoors; hopefully it'll recover from all that salt now that it has new soil; the roots may have rotted, however, perhaps due to the stagnation of growth caused by the excess of sea minerals or the smallness of the container).
- On my indoor pepper, spider mites caused by far the most damage on new growth.
- I've read that spider mites can contribute to the spread of anthracnose. I'm not sure if that's true, but it seems anthracnose does perhaps often coincide with spider mite infections. So, if you grow watermelons, anthracnose-tolerant varieties may be helpful.
- Spider mite webs are said to help protect them against predators, but in my observation, they seem to use them to travel to new locations, too. Although spider mites are said not to move very fast (I can't see them; so, I don't know if this is really true for our species), they do infect neighboring plants rather quickly indoors (within a day or two). They may or may not spread so quickly outdoors.
- Firstly, they're almost always invisible.
- Secondly, they don't really do any noticeable damage to outdoor plants unless it's both hot and dry. The hotter and dryer it gets, the more damage I notice.
- On indoor plants, they seem to do the least damage when it's cool and the most when it's warm (whether or not it's dry). So, if you don't heat a room that has plants in it, they may cause less damage.
- Spraying outdoor plants down with regular water every day or two seems to stop them from damaging the plants (it works for indoor plants, too, but it's more tedious and needs to be done more often). I'm not really sure why. Maybe they're thirsty. Maybe it sprays them off the plants. I don't know, but it works (no need to use soap and stuff; regular water works fine).
- They do more damage to peppers indoors than outdoors (they left my outdoor peppers alone, both the hot and the sweet peppers).
- They very noticeably afflict the following outdoor plants: apple trees, watermelon, ground cherries, garden huckleberries, tomatillos, pepino melons, eggplants, and roses (the leaves).
- They affected litchi tomatoes, too, but less severely.
- They seem to afflict regular tomatoes on rare occasions, but leave most of them alone. They may have affected my cucumbers and Shark Fin Melon, but I'm not 100% sure.
- My muskmelons and Red-seeded Citron watermelon were mostly unafflicted, but that could have just been the location (hopefully not, though).
- They seem to be capable of infesting most houseplants, although the damage seems to be less than to outdoor garden plants when it's hot and dry (and less than the damage to indoor peppers).
- They did not noticeably affect the following outdoor plants: peppers, Ethiopian eggplant (Burkina Faso), weeds, peach trees, nectarine trees, cabbage, arugula, milk thistle, mizuna, our apricot tree, and other stuff.
- Attempting to entirely eliminate spider mites does not seem to be a very practical endeavor by most approaches. However, you might try predatory mites, which are supposed to eat them. Be careful not to kill any predatory mites that already exist (they may appear to be spider mites if you're not careful). There may be effective pesitcides, but spider mites can gain resistance fairly quickly, as I understand it.
- On indoor plants they spin webs from the soil to the plant often (especially when either the soil dries out or first becomes wet). I'm not really sure why they do this, unless they partially live in the soil or something. However, it's possible that if you cut them off from the soil, they may be less prolific. So, mulching might potentially help considerably. We didn't mulch any of our plants that have had spider mite problems. So, I can't tell you how effective this is.
- On my indoor pepper, spider mites caused significantly less damage when I applied sea minerals, but they would eventually cause damage again until I used them again. I recommend a foliar spray since that would be less likely to make the soil too salty quickly. The excess salt in sea minerals can indeed cause problems if you use too much (but it takes a while before it gets to that point). I purposefully used too much (directly in the soil) to discover this. It's possible that using sea minerals on the leaves may protect the plant more than applying it to the soil does, but I'm not sure, since I haven't tried it, yet (my pepper plant is now in a container outdoors; hopefully it'll recover from all that salt now that it has new soil; the roots may have rotted, however, perhaps due to the stagnation of growth caused by the excess of sea minerals or the smallness of the container).
- On my indoor pepper, spider mites caused by far the most damage on new growth.
- I've read that spider mites can contribute to the spread of anthracnose. I'm not sure if that's true, but it seems anthracnose does perhaps often coincide with spider mite infections. So, if you grow watermelons, anthracnose-tolerant varieties may be helpful.
- Spider mite webs are said to help protect them against predators, but in my observation, they seem to use them to travel to new locations, too. Although spider mites are said not to move very fast (I can't see them; so, I don't know if this is really true for our species), they do infect neighboring plants rather quickly indoors (within a day or two). They may or may not spread so quickly outdoors. Clearing the webs might help some.
- The damage to outdoor plants appears different than the damage to indoor plants. Affected outdoor plants may have webs on them. The leaves may appear speckled. On indoor plants, they seem to cause leaf deformities, and little spots that can turn into edema if it's humid. They can spin webs to close up leaves. They can cause leaves to curl.
- Firstly, they're almost always invisible.
- Secondly, they don't really do any noticeable damage to outdoor plants unless it's both hot and dry. The hotter and dryer it gets, the more damage I notice.
- On indoor plants, they seem to do the least damage when it's cool and the most when it's warm (whether or not it's dry). So, if you don't heat a room that has plants in it, they may cause less damage.
- Spraying theoutdoor plants down with regular water every day or two seems to stop them from damaging the plants (it works for indoor plants, too, but it's more tedious and needs to be done more often). I'm not really sure why. Maybe they're thirsty. Maybe it sprays them off the plants. I don't know, but it works (no need to use soap and stuff; regular water works fine).
- They do more damage to peppers indoors than outdoors (they left my outdoor peppers alone, both the hot and the sweet peppers).
- They very noticeably afflict the following outdoor plants: apple trees, watermelon, ground cherries, garden huckleberries, tomatillos, pepino melons, eggplants, and roses (the leaves).
- They affected litchi tomatoes, too, but less severely.
- They seem to afflict regular tomatoes on rare occasions, but leave most of them alone. They may have affected my cucumbers and Shark Fin Melon, but I'm not 100% sure.
- My muskmelons and Red-seeded Citron watermelon were mostly unafflicted, but that could have just been the location (hopefully not, though).
- They seem to be capable of infesting most houseplants, although the damage seems to be less than to outdoor garden plants when it's hot and dry (and less than the damage to indoor peppers).
- They did not noticeably affect the following outdoor plants: peppers, Ethiopian eggplant (Burkina Faso), weeds, peach trees, nectarine trees, cabbage, arugula, milk thistle, mizuna, our apricot tree, and other stuff.
- Attempting to entirely eliminate spider mites does not seem to be a very practical endeavor by most approaches. However, you might try predatory mites, which are supposed to eat them. Be careful not to kill any predatory mites that already exist (they may appear to be spider mites if you're not careful). There may be effective pesitcides, but spider mites can gain resistance fairly quickly, as I understand it.
- On indoor plants they spin webs from the soil to the plant often (especially when either the soil dries out or first becomes wet). I'm not really sure why they do this, unless they partially live in the soil or something. However, it's possible that if you cut them off from the soil, they may be less prolific. So, mulching might potentially help considerably. We didn't mulch any of our plants that have had spider mite problems. So, I can't tell you how effective this is.
- On my indoor pepper, spider mites caused significantly less damage when I applied sea minerals, but they would eventually cause damage again until I used them again. I recommend a foliar spray since that would be less likely to make the soil too salty quickly. The excess salt in sea minerals can indeed cause problems if you use too much (but it takes a while before it gets to that point). I purposefully used too much (directly in the soil) to discover this. It's possible that using sea minerals on the leaves may protect the plant more than applying it to the soil does, but I'm not sure, since I haven't tried it, yet (my pepper plant is now in a container outdoors; hopefully it'll recover from all that salt now that it has new soil; the roots may have rotted, however, perhaps due to the stagnation of growth caused by the excess of sea minerals or the smallness of the container).
- On my indoor pepper, spider mites caused by far the most damage on new growth.
- I've read that spider mites can contribute to the spread of anthracnose. I'm not sure if that's true, but it seems anthracnose does perhaps often coincide with spider mite infections. So, if you grow watermelons, anthracnose-tolerant varieties may be helpful.
- Spider mite webs are said to help protect them against predators, but in my observation, they seem to use them to travel to new locations, too. Although spider mites are said not to move very fast (I can't see them; so, I don't know if this is really true for our species), they do infect neighboring plants rather quickly indoors (within a day or two). They may or may not spread so quickly outdoors.
- Firstly, they're almost always invisible.
- Secondly, they don't really do any noticeable damage to outdoor plants unless it's both hot and dry. The hotter and dryer it gets, the more damage I notice.
- On indoor plants, they seem to do the least damage when it's cool and the most when it's warm (whether or not it's dry). So, if you don't heat a room that has plants in it, they may cause less damage.
- Spraying the plants down with regular water every day or two seems to stop them from damaging the plants. I'm not really sure why. Maybe they're thirsty. Maybe it sprays them off the plants. I don't know, but it works (no need to use soap and stuff; regular water works fine).
- They do more damage to peppers indoors than outdoors (they left my outdoor peppers alone, both the hot and the sweet peppers).
- They very noticeably afflict the following outdoor plants: apple trees, watermelon, ground cherries, garden huckleberries, tomatillos, pepino melons, eggplants, and roses (the leaves).
- They affected litchi tomatoes, too, but less severely.
- They seem to afflict regular tomatoes on rare occasions, but leave most of them alone. They may have affected my cucumbers and Shark Fin Melon, but I'm not 100% sure.
- My muskmelons and Red-seeded Citron watermelon were mostly unafflicted, but that could have just been the location (hopefully not, though).
- They seem to be capable of infesting most houseplants, although the damage seems to be less than to outdoor garden plants when it's hot and dry (and less than the damage to indoor peppers).
- They did not noticeably affect the following outdoor plants: peppers, Ethiopian eggplant (Burkina Faso), weeds, peach trees, nectarine trees, cabbage, arugula, milk thistle, mizuna, our apricot tree, and other stuff.
- Attempting to entirely eliminate spider mites does not seem to be a very practical endeavor by most approaches. However, you might try predatory mites, which are supposed to eat them. Be careful not to kill any predatory mites that already exist (they may appear to be spider mites if you're not careful). There may be effective pesitcides, but spider mites can gain resistance fairly quickly, as I understand it.
- On indoor plants they spin webs from the soil to the plant often (especially when either the soil dries out or first becomes wet). I'm not really sure why they do this, unless they partially live in the soil or something. However, it's possible that if you cut them off from the soil, they may be less prolific. So, mulching might potentially help considerably. We didn't mulch any of our plants that have had spider mite problems. So, I can't tell you how effective this is.
- On my indoor pepper, spider mites caused significantly less damage when I applied sea minerals, but they would eventually cause damage again until I used them again. I recommend a foliar spray since that would be less likely to make the soil too salty quickly. The excess salt in sea minerals can indeed cause problems if you use too much (but it takes a while before it gets to that point). I purposefully used too much (directly in the soil) to discover this. It's possible that using sea minerals on the leaves may protect the plant more than applying it to the soil does, but I'm not sure, since I haven't tried it, yet (my pepper plant is now in a container outdoors; hopefully it'll recover from all that salt now that it has new soil; the roots may have rotted, however, perhaps due to the stagnation of growth caused by the excess of sea minerals or the smallness of the container).
- On my indoor pepper, spider mites caused by far the most damage on new growth.
- I've read that spider mites can contribute to the spread of anthracnose. I'm not sure if that's true, but it seems anthracnose does perhaps often coincide with spider mite infections. So, if you grow watermelons, anthracnose-tolerant varieties may be helpful.
- Spider mite webs are said to help protect them against predators, but in my observation, they seem to use them to travel to new locations, too. Although spider mites are said not to move very fast (I can't see them; so, I don't know if this is really true for our species), they do infect neighboring plants rather quickly indoors (within a day or two). They may or may not spread so quickly outdoors.
- Firstly, they're almost always invisible.
- Secondly, they don't really do any noticeable damage to outdoor plants unless it's both hot and dry. The hotter and dryer it gets, the more damage I notice.
- On indoor plants, they seem to do the least damage when it's cool and the most when it's warm (whether or not it's dry). So, if you don't heat a room that has plants in it, they may cause less damage.
- Spraying outdoor plants down with regular water every day or two seems to stop them from damaging the plants (it works for indoor plants, too, but it's more tedious and needs to be done more often). I'm not really sure why. Maybe they're thirsty. Maybe it sprays them off the plants. I don't know, but it works (no need to use soap and stuff; regular water works fine).
- They do more damage to peppers indoors than outdoors (they left my outdoor peppers alone, both the hot and the sweet peppers).
- They very noticeably afflict the following outdoor plants: apple trees, watermelon, ground cherries, garden huckleberries, tomatillos, pepino melons, eggplants, and roses (the leaves).
- They affected litchi tomatoes, too, but less severely.
- They seem to afflict regular tomatoes on rare occasions, but leave most of them alone. They may have affected my cucumbers and Shark Fin Melon, but I'm not 100% sure.
- My muskmelons and Red-seeded Citron watermelon were mostly unafflicted, but that could have just been the location (hopefully not, though).
- They seem to be capable of infesting most houseplants, although the damage seems to be less than to outdoor garden plants when it's hot and dry (and less than the damage to indoor peppers).
- They did not noticeably affect the following outdoor plants: peppers, Ethiopian eggplant (Burkina Faso), weeds, peach trees, nectarine trees, cabbage, arugula, milk thistle, mizuna, our apricot tree, and other stuff.
- Attempting to entirely eliminate spider mites does not seem to be a very practical endeavor by most approaches. However, you might try predatory mites, which are supposed to eat them. Be careful not to kill any predatory mites that already exist (they may appear to be spider mites if you're not careful). There may be effective pesitcides, but spider mites can gain resistance fairly quickly, as I understand it.
- On indoor plants they spin webs from the soil to the plant often (especially when either the soil dries out or first becomes wet). I'm not really sure why they do this, unless they partially live in the soil or something. However, it's possible that if you cut them off from the soil, they may be less prolific. So, mulching might potentially help considerably. We didn't mulch any of our plants that have had spider mite problems. So, I can't tell you how effective this is.
- On my indoor pepper, spider mites caused significantly less damage when I applied sea minerals, but they would eventually cause damage again until I used them again. I recommend a foliar spray since that would be less likely to make the soil too salty quickly. The excess salt in sea minerals can indeed cause problems if you use too much (but it takes a while before it gets to that point). I purposefully used too much (directly in the soil) to discover this. It's possible that using sea minerals on the leaves may protect the plant more than applying it to the soil does, but I'm not sure, since I haven't tried it, yet (my pepper plant is now in a container outdoors; hopefully it'll recover from all that salt now that it has new soil; the roots may have rotted, however, perhaps due to the stagnation of growth caused by the excess of sea minerals or the smallness of the container).
- On my indoor pepper, spider mites caused by far the most damage on new growth.
- I've read that spider mites can contribute to the spread of anthracnose. I'm not sure if that's true, but it seems anthracnose does perhaps often coincide with spider mite infections. So, if you grow watermelons, anthracnose-tolerant varieties may be helpful.
- Spider mite webs are said to help protect them against predators, but in my observation, they seem to use them to travel to new locations, too. Although spider mites are said not to move very fast (I can't see them; so, I don't know if this is really true for our species), they do infect neighboring plants rather quickly indoors (within a day or two). They may or may not spread so quickly outdoors.
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