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• Irrigation System Planning & Management from University Missouri Extension Office
• Irrigation Tutorials
• Designing a New Irrigation System
• Direct PDF link - FREE drip irrigation installation manual and planning guide
• Rain Bird Irrigation Learning Center
• Toro Water Saver Design Service and Installation Guides
• Dripworks Drip Irrigation Design Overview
• How to Install In-Ground Sprinklers from This Old House
• For people living in the US, they should search for, Center Irrigation Technology, and if they find they're lucky to live in a state which has such a center (resource), the water based information they provide can be indispensable...
• Irrigation Technology - California Agricultural Technology Institute

• Irrigation Tutorials
• Designing a New Irrigation System
• Direct PDF link - FREE drip irrigation installation manual and planning guide
• Rain Bird Irrigation Learning Center
• How to Install In-Ground Sprinklers from This Old House
• For people living in the US, they should search for, Center Irrigation Technology, and if they find they're lucky to live in a state which has such a center (resource), the water based information they provide can be indispensable...

• Trees.
• Flowerbeds.
• Raised Beds.
• Hard landscape areas.
• Areas where you can easily connect into your "domestic" cold water and electrical systems.

• "Generally" speaking the more zones the better.
• More zones give greater control e.g. Certain zones might need to be watered more than others.
• Install a master "Irrigation Control Valve" box ie Gather all "Control Valves" into a single area, this allows for easier maintenance...
• It's worth making this master box bigger than you initially need and throw in a couple of spare "Control Valves", this will make any further upgrades, expansion of the irrigation system that much easier.
• Install a "Emergency Shut-off Valve" that shuts off water to the whole irrigation system.

6. Even in areas that experience freezing conditions it's not "standard practice" to bury the pipes deep enough so they're unaffected by those conditions, instead it's "standard practice" to drain (blow out via an air-compressor) the system before freezing weather conditions arrive in the area.

• You don't want to bury the pipes too deep, that leads to more digging. Also you don't want to put the pipes too shallow, that could easily lead to a garden tool (fork, spade, etc) piercing the pipe while you go about your normal gardening work.
• Burying pipes somewhere in the 10 to 18inch (250 to 450mm) depth range is considered "safe" (a good depth).

7. Don't connect your irrigation system to an outside tap (though this can be done, it's considered "poor practice"), instead properly plumb it into your "domestic" cold water system.

• A little more work, but well worth taking the time and cost to-do.
• When connecting into your "domestic" cold water system, install a "Backflow Device", this will prevent water from your irrigation system entering your "domestic" cold water system.

8. Don't go with a battery powered "Timer" (Control Panel), instead go with one that you can wire into your "domestic" electrical system. Again, a little more work, but well worth the effort and cost...

9. Get "Sprinkler Heads" that have (replaceable) filters, this allows you to easily clean them or replace them.

10. A well designed system will overlap each sprinkler water zone by about 20%, this ensures good water coverage and minimises dry areas between the sprinkler water zones.

• Also allows for things like windy days when the wind will effect the distribution of the water.

11. The "Sprinkler Heads" should deliver water droplets, not water spray (mist).

• Trees.

• Flowerbeds.

• Raised Beds.

• Hard landscape areas.

• Areas where you can easily connect into your "domestic" cold water and electrical systems.

• "Generally" speaking the more zones the better.

• More zones give greater control e.g. Certain zones might need to be watered more than others.

• Install a master "Irrigation Control Valve" box ie Gather all "Control Valves" into a single area, this allows for easier maintenance...

• It's worth making this master box bigger than you initially need and throw in a couple of spare "Control Valves", this will make any further upgrades, expansion of the irrigation system that much easier.

• Install a "Emergency Shut-off Valve" that shuts off water to the whole irrigation system.

6. Before you starting digging, check local and state laws/requirements eg

Here in Missouri it's against the law to begin excavating before you request utilities are marked on site:

• Missouri One Call System: Call 1-800-DIG-RITE Before You Dig

Missouri law requires that a locate request be placed before beginning any excavation.

Placing a locate request is free and easy! Call 1-800-DIG-RITE (800-344-7483) or 811 or place your request online using Internet Ticketing.

The utilities should respond to your request within 3 working days by:

• Marking the approximate location of their facilities or

• Notifying you that they have no facilities in your dig site area.

After confirming utility response, you can then proceed with your excavation avoiding damages.

7. Even in areas that experience freezing conditions it's not "standard practice" to bury the pipes deep enough so they're unaffected by those conditions, instead it's "standard practice" to drain (blow out via an air-compressor) the system before freezing weather conditions arrive in the area.

• You don't want to bury the pipes too deep, that leads to more digging. Also you don't want to put the pipes too shallow, that could easily lead to a garden tool (fork, spade, etc) piercing the pipe while you go about your normal gardening work.

• Burying pipes somewhere in the 10 to 18inch (250 to 450mm) depth range is considered "safe" (a good depth).

8. Don't connect your irrigation system to an outside tap (though this can be done, it's considered "poor practice"), instead properly plumb it into your "domestic" cold water system.

• A little more work, but well worth taking the time and cost to-do.

• When connecting into your "domestic" cold water system, install a "Backflow Device", this prevents water from your irrigation system entering your "domestic" cold water system. Such a device is "generally" required by local building codes and/or your local water company.

9. Don't go with a battery powered "Timer" (Control Panel), instead go with one that you can wire into your "domestic" electrical system. Again, a little more work, but well worth the effort and cost...

10. Get "Sprinkler Heads" that have (replaceable) filters, this allows you to easily clean them or replace them.

11. A well designed system will overlap each sprinkler water zone by about 20%, this ensures good water coverage and minimises dry areas between the sprinkler water zones.

• Also allows for things like windy days when the wind will effect the distribution of the water.

12. The "Sprinkler Heads" should deliver water droplets, not water spray (mist).

First, I have no personal experience with in-ground sprinkler systems i.e. I've not designed or installed such a system not have I ever lived in a home that had such a system.

First, I have no personal experience with in-ground sprinkler systems i.e. I've not designed or installed such a system, nor have I ever lived in a home that had such a system.