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20

Those are male flowers, so what you're experiencing (no fruit) is absolutely normal. Female flowers have a mini fruit underneath, and usually appear when the plant is a little older. Look for a miniature fruit under the flower. The shape will depend on your variety. It looks like you may already have 1 or 2. It is normal for a young squash plant of any kind ...


10

This could be Blossom End Rot (BER) to which most of the cucurbit family are susceptible. It is caused by a calcium deficiency - see my answer here. However, given that some of your courgettes are growing normally, and those that are rotting are very small, I think the problem is almost certainly caused by inadequate pollination: No fruit, or fruit ...


8

Edited to add: Ahhh! The pictures you added tell a lot. Your plants are further along than I assumed based on your original post. When the plants are as far along as yours are, flowers not opening can be a sign of stress. Sometimes it happens when you have a squash vine borer, but in your case, I think it is because the plants are much too close together. I ...


8

This does sound like a pollination problem. There is a detailed article explaining how to hand-pollinate zucchini and cucumber plants here. Briefly, to hand-pollinate your flowers: Identify the female flowers (unlike the male ones, they have a small fruit behind them); Gently remove a male flower from the vine, without touching the anthers (see diagram), ...


7

Well, you can't stop zucchini(courgettes) from growing and they're prolific growers. But they keep pretty well, just pick them small which will encourage them to grow more, so maybe you can afford to give a few away (not just the huge ones). You could always plant fewer and space them out more so you can spot 'em easier before they get humungous. As for ...


6

It seems to be called zucchini tromboncino. Here are some pictures that all look like yours. North American zucchini = European courgette. (BTW some of the pictures fall somewhere between funny and not quite NSFW.)


5

Look at the stem, down near the base. Do you see some distinctive brown-orange sawdust-like material? If so, that's called frass, and your plant is being destroyed by one or more squash vine borers. The wikipedia article is really good, and shows pictures (at the bottom) of what to look for. We've tried killing the grubs in the stem, with a hatpin and ...


4

Without the benefit of a picture, I can suggest (quoting from "The Organic Gardener's Handbook of Natural Pest and Disease Control") the following, with my most likely guesses first: Downy mildew: Leaves mottled yellow between veins; purple spots on leaf undersides. ... thrives during cool, wet weather. Avoid wetting foliage. Maybe spray with potassium ...


4

If the blossom end turns black, that's blossom end rot, due to irregular water supply disabling calcium uptake, but the other cause of this problem is the female flower, particularly when the weather is wet. The flower traps water and causes the end of the burgeoning zucchini to start rotting. It usually only affects some of the fruits, and a way round it is ...


4

If I understand you right, you just want to know what size to harvest your zucchini at. Most people harvest them when they're small (maybe four inches long, give or take a few inches). They think they taste better then than when they're huge. It's a matter of preference, though. I, being rare, personally prefer them large (about half size to probably just ...


4

First picture: The picture appears to be powdery mildew, up close it would be a cottony fungal colony growing on the leaf. Your watering schedule is quite likely making the situation somewhat worse. Powdery mildew grows most aggressively under high-moisture and moderate temperature environments. Your 9 PM watering is ensuring the moisture part of the ...


3

Meh, it's protein. The grub's made of the same stuff you're eating. And the rest of the vegetable is in pristine condition. You can cut out the section that's had grub activity (if it's been eaten into) and the rest is just fine to eat. Same goes for an ear of corn that had a corn ear worm take out kernels or an apple that's had an apple borer in it. Cut ...


3

You have powdery mildew on your leaves, try spraying with neem oil or sponge with baking soda water mixture, it can be difficult to get rid of. The stem looks like it was damaged somehow, maybe a critter walked by it and broke it?


3

Did you "harden off" your transplants first? I'm asking because this all looks like minor damage from not allowing your plants to gradually acclimate themselves to the outdoors, where the sun is stronger and the temperatures fluctuate and the wind blows, before being put outside all the time. The beige-brown patches on the Zucchini looks like sunburn. The ...


3

If it happens when they are very small then it is just an abort. It happens to some varieties more than others. A little bit bigger (flower opened and closed), they could have pollination problems or a problem with inconsistent watering. I haven't noticed a problem with BER with zucchini.


3

I've never had a problem with cucumber beetles nor do I have any experience using the following products but this is what's listed in my current Johnny's Selected Seeds catalog as their recommendations for cucumber beetles. They are all marked as organic. Azaguard - $134 Qt. Mycotrol O - $109 Qt. Pyganic* - 1.4% concentration for $69.95 Qt. or 5% ...


3

That looks like downy mildew. From "The Organic Gardener's Handbook of Natural Pest & Disease Control" (Bradley), p194: Remove and destroy badly infected leaves. Disease is worst in cool, wet weather; don't water in this weather. (Avoid wetting foliage in general when watering.) Spraying with potassium bicarbonate may help control it. See ...


2

Looks like some variety of Cucuzza


2

If mange tout1 is the same as what we call a "snap pea" or a "snow pea", it's not that it's immature, it's a different variety. (Well, I generally eat them before the peas fatten up, so they are immature, but I don't do this with "garden peas" (aka "English peas") because the pods aren't very tasty.) Hmm... what's a marrow? It looks like a member of C. ...


2

You haven't said whether all four zucchini plants are growing in the same area, or whether they're in separate areas of the garden, but, if you can find no evidence of aphids or spider mites (webbing under the leaves, usually), or if the leaves are actually patchy or mottled yellow rather than all yellow (which would suggest viral infection), I recommend you ...


2

I just leave them on the vine until I need to eat them. But if they get too large, I remove them for the fridge.


2

There are indeed many varieties of zucchini (Cucurbita pepo) with different fruit shape and skin color. Zucchini are eaten when immature and they typically have green skin and pale green pulp. However when they mature the interior (and often also the skin) tends to become orange and the taste is not very good. So I believe what you got it's normal when the ...


2

Do it as soon as the cotyledons open out, before the second set of leaves form, and when you do it, take a lump or mass of the soil in the tray surrounding the root so you don't have to disturb it - transfer it wholesale into a pot containing potting compost, not seed and cutting compost. Lift the seedling out from the bottom, holding the clump of soil ...


2

If the stem has softened, and there is a small amount of sawdust-like frass by the split, you have squash vine borer. These pests are the larvae of a moth, and feed on the inside of the zucchini stem by the base of the plant. To control, slit the stem open carefully along the main stem until you locate the worm (it is usually not far from the slit it made). ...


1

You can go to a big box store and buy an automatic waterer for somewhere in the range of $20. I think I paid $30-something and got one that does two different settings for two different outs. They run on AA batteries. Then buy a drip irrigation line or a soaker hose (saw those for $5-10). Set it to come out and stay on, whatever schedule you want. Test it ...


1

This can happen if the plant experiences more extreme conditions like if it suddenly takes in a lot of water. If the plant seems otherwise unaffected then you probably don't need to worry. Some people will pile soil around the split area or provide extra support for the plant if you think it's been weakened by the split.


1

On the assumption you're growing a variety that does actually produce seed, its best to leave one or two courgettes on the plant later in the season rather than earlier, because of encouraging more fruiting. Seems somewhat late in the season to be talking about this really! However, if you are growing more than one type of squash, or your neighbour is ...


1

I enjoy growing large zucchini (I prefer them to small ones). So, I can tell you about my experience with the varieties we've grown (whatever they were). My experience is that if you pick them sooner, they'll grow more fruits. However (with the kinds we grew), if you don't, you can still get a few to several large zucchinis on one plant (usually about 2-5). ...


1

From "The Organic Gardener's Handbook of Natural Pest and Disease Control", p262-263: Prevention: Remove and destroy crop residues Cover with floating row cover (and pollinate by hand) Cure: Apply kaolin clay, especially to leaf undersides; reapply after rain Handpick or vacuum beetles Apply parasitic nematodes to soil weekly to control larvae Spray ...


1

While I think I also see some mildew close to the ground, most of the damage looks like leaf miners - but much, much worse than I've ever had experience with in our cooler climate. I don't find much good guidance for what to do at this point, for this year. When done with the plant, be sure to dispose of it - get rid of the pupae and larvae. Also, clear ...



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