Hot answers tagged vines
12
This looks like Virgin's Bower, aka Clematis Virginiana, to me. It is commonly mistaken for poison ivy. The wikipedia article on poison ivy has a list of plants that are commonly mistaken for poison ivy.
10
From the photos, and your description it sounds like Morning Glory. They can be cultivated as a flower, but they're most usually known as a troublesome weed that's very hard to eradicate. They will grow back from the smallest segment of root, so pulling them up means taking a lot of care not to leave little pieces behind. They can also smother other more ...
9
For killing weeds in an established lawn, a Weed Spray is usually the easiest way. A weed spray kills weeds without harming grass (provided the grass is healthy).
I've had good luck with Spectracide, but the Ortho product mentioned in here works well too. The Spectracide label says it kills Ground Ivy, so it should work on your weed.
Some tips:
Note ...
8
Mint does not care for being mowed. If you just assert your ownership of that bit of the lawn, and mow and weed whack as you prefer, eventually it will be less minty. Oregano, in contrast, seems to decide to become a creeping ground cover in the face of endless mowing, which isn't entirely a bad thing. We have fragrant walking paths.
Sure, while there are ...
8
These are two different plants. The one in the second (lower) photo is astilbe, a common ornamental, perennial garden plant; it is not poisonous.
With a number of plants imitating poison ivy in form of leaf, it's difficult to determine what the plant is in the first photo. There is considerable variation in the leaf shape (toothed vs lobed) and surface ...
8
I suspect most weed and feed products will be pre-emergents, meaning you need to get it in your lawn before the weed seeds have a chance to germinate, which is a limited window. Once something like this is already growing, you're usually left with the round-up type of products, which kill everything they touch, or hand pulling.
After a long day in the ...
7
Based on what I've seen, and confirmed a bit by a couple of quick searches, the photos on top with the deeply indented leaves look like melon.
The one on the bottom looks like a cucumber, though maybe it could be a squash.
As a side note, zucchini, acorn, and spaghetti squashes are all C. pepo and could have crossed last year. If you have volunteers from ...
7
This is just a suggestion - but time, I believe is of the essence.
I think you may have a problem with soil compaction around the place where those vines are taking root so I'm not sure how you're going to get it out of there. What you could do is cover the vine with soil where the topsoil where it is taking root. Wait a week so while keeping the soil ...
7
If you're willing to grow veggies, snap peas are great! They don't need much tending, they're one of the first things to pop out of the soil in the spring, long before the last frost. And they are one of the best things to snack on straight off the vine. They can be planted densely, will climb any trellis you give them without much direction. And they ...
6
This is a variety of Houttuynia cordata. The most popular cultivar is "Variegata" which has multicoloured leaves of white green and red. The way to confirm the identification is to pinch off a leaf. There is a unique smell associated with this plant. I can't describe it but the Wikipedia article refers to it as "fish mint". If it has mosquito repellent ...
5
My father-in-law (who has been growing grapes for decades) came over on the weekend and cut off all the shoots. When I asked him about it, he said that none of them would produce any grapes this year, and they'd end up getting pruned next spring, so there was no harm in pulling them off now.
5
If you want a good flower show next year, I would stay away from the woody vines. Although you may get some flowering next year, it is unlikely to be very exciting.
I would look at annual and herbaceous perennial vines. My favorites include:
Annual Vines
Firecracker Vine (Ipomoea lobata syn. Mina lobata)
Hyacinth Bean (Dolichos lablab)
Black-eyed Susan ...
5
Oh boy! I made the same mistake and now mine occupies about 3-4 times the area in the pic on the right here (that was taken last Oct). It's hard to tell if you're really done pulling it out, because the stolons could have propagated quite far.
I don't know of an easy way (I doubt there's one...). The approach I'm taking now is to mercilessly cull most of ...
4
Honeysuckle vines have very hard wood. I have snapped sequiteur blades trying to cut a branch only 3/4" diameter. If you have a lot of old vines that have not been pruned I recommend an industrial approach.
rent a chainsaw and cut the vines back near the base. (Be extremely careful not to snag the chainsaw on the fence. Use hearing protectors, safety ...
3
According to the advertising for this product, yes it will kill the whole plant back to the root. In practice, it doesn't, usually, but the way to control your Vinca that's best for the plant, your garden and the environment generally is to give it a good haircut after its flowered by pulling up all the long strands of growth and cutting them off at about 2 ...
3
I have it growing in my garden in the southern most part of Virginia. I can attest that it is extremely invasive. On the other hand, it makes a beautiful display with the white flowers in May. After that, I'm in a never ending battle of keeping it at bay. It is even growing up through the deck.
It grows solid green in my garden with full morning sun (east ...
3
In no particular order of preference
Akebia, the Chocolate vine fragrant purplish or reddish flowers, semi evergreen, pest and disease free, flowers have an edible pulp-any type of soil, tolerates shade. Downsides: plant two for fruit production, not a native North American plant, might be too vigorous if it likes it
Celastrus scandens, bittersweet, ...
3
Beware, that does not appear to be Passiflora subpeltata because the fruit are the wrong color. It is a Passiflora, though its dangerous to eat the fruit if it is an unknown variety. Those fruit are way too small to eat anyways since its the pulp inside that is eaten and those would have scant pulp.
3
I have had some pretty good success with Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max. I have used it on crabgrass, clover, and wild onion and it does a pretty good job. Pretty much I have used it for spot treatment in small areas but you can also use it with a sprayer to spray a larger area.
2
For what it is worth, I think a suitably selected Clematis would make a very good choice.
Below are a few other vines that should work well for your requirements:
Honeysuckle - Lonicera x heckrottii 'Gold Flame'
Trumpet honeysuckle - Lonicera sempervirens
Wild passion flower - Passiflora incarnata
This time of year, later Summer, early Autumn (Fall) is ...
2
Not vines, but how about some "Deciduous shrubs"?
Two that standout for me are (would need to check your Hardiness Zone to see if they would be suitable):
Crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia)
Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus)
Initial outlay might be a little more than you're thinking, but once you've bought them, there really is no recurring cost each year...
...
2
It does not look like any poison ivy, oak, or sumac variant that I've ever seen. They usually have leaves that grow in a trio. Have you ever seen it seed/fruit? I'm placing a guess that it's a Manroot vine. I'm not a botanist so it might be worthwhile to put on some gloves, put a cutting in a plastic bag, and check with a local nursery.
2
Your USDA Zone represents the minimum annual temperature -- useful for predicting whether a given perennial plant will survive the winter. If you're in Zone 10, that means your expected minimum temperature is about 30°F (35, if you're in 10b)
If you're planting an annual morning glory like Ipomoea purpurea, then your frost-free dates will be more helpful ...
2
I have had little success growing morning glory from seed (I was using a mix from McKenzie). The few plants that came up did not at all take over the fence, which they were sharing with some bean plants. I found the flowers very pretty and would recommend planting them based on my experience.
1
I have morning glory growing wild as a weed on a fence in the corner of my garden. At this point I've mostly got the upper hand, but if I'm not diligent in removing every vine that appears it will take over the fence. Maybe you have a variety that won't be quite so vigorous, but I'd normally recommend against morning glory except in a container.
As for ...
1
This plant has several names such as pothos or Epipremnum aureum. Is an evergreen vine from the Australia/South Asia area and has become naturalized worldwide. The reason you do not see any flowers on this due to it's life cycle. Botanists saw two forms of the same plant:
the juvenile form that you have that does not flower and whose leaves are not split
...
1
You've a problem if you can only plant in pots. Any large vine or climbing plant so contained will only ever achieve a few feet, say 6 feet if you're lucky in 2 foot deep pots, because of the constriction to its root room, so this does not sound like a good solution to your problem. If you can find somewhere to plant into soil, and then train towards the ...
1
I planted some morning glory seeds in rocky soil in a hot dry raised bed. In these conditions where it was close to a well established cedar hedge which sucks up moisture I expected it to ramble about the bed. I never watered it. After three months it had covered the bed, the adjacent fence, the bench that was close by and was making some inroads on ...
1
That would be mistletoe, a tree parasite. This is a vining shrub that puts its roots directly into the tree, sapping the energy that the tree draws from the ground. Cutting the plants off at the base every time they start to regrow kills them fairly quickly. You may want hire a arborist.
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