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1

One of things that has limited our greater use of nematodes (in turf) in general is their expense and their viability in the environment. I haven't heard of a case of these becoming established to a level that they provide continued control. So multiple applications are typically required. This suggests that there is some self-limiting control on the amount ...


1

My house once had a piece of clear tape/plastic/paperish-like material dangling from the eaves. At night, even a light breeze would rustle it, and it sounded just like an animal moving through some bushes. It scared our neighbor's cat away, anyway (quite funny to watch), and I didn't even know what it was the first few days or so I heard it. Even after I ...


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All you need is a spotlight and a pellet gun. Once you put the light on them walk up with the light still on them and then shoot them. Once they are dead cut there neck and make them bleed and walk all around the garden... This will alert all the other coons and they will not come back


2

Mealybug infestation - looks like mostly larval. I've found that a mixture of 1 teaspoon of dish detergent per cup of water has been an effective control. used as a spray over the entire plant. Once the population has been controlled, wash the leaves carefully to remove residue.


1

Sometimes the best thing to do is to look your gift plant right in the aphids (or other pest problem) and set it out in the snow to die, before you spread the problem to all your other plants.


1

I wouldn't seek to eliminate them but rather understand that if controlled, they are effectively harmless. Using any/all of the methods you describe ought to be sufficient control. They typically are hatched and lay eggs as soon as possible and then go die in one of the traps soon after cutting their life short. You won't necessarily get rid of them ...


3

I've gotten them under control indoors with bowls of water to which I've added a couple drops of dish soap. The soap lowers surface tension, so that when the bugs land for a drink, they sink. Color seems to be an important factor for the species I dealt with. A yellow bottom bowl drowns dozens in the time it takes a blue bowl to attract only a couple ...


2

One "trick" for a more dig-resistant fence is to bury the wire down and out. So if you go down a foot, also go out a foot, and bend the bottom of the wire out a foot. If the animal would dig deeper than a foot, but starts near the fence, they hit the buried horizontal wire. Of course, even with galvanized wire, rust never sleeps, so you may have to do it ...


2

Because rabbits can dig, and don't jump very high, usually a 3' wide chicken wire, with the lowest third buried, held up by wooden stakes is enough to keep them away. I do this around raised beds in city gardens for folks, and it works as long as there's nothing to climb over, cause some rabbits learn to climb. It's also important that this fence be strong ...


3

Insecticidal soaps only need a few minutes to be effective. A rinse to wash the soap off after a few applications is highly recommended to prevent the buildup of fatty acids on the "business" part of the leaf where gaseous exchange goes on. Some plants such as african violets do not respond well to soap treatments. Either they have more delicate leaves or ...


3

If you can water by pouring the water directly on the potting mix, it doesn't matter, you can water anytime. If your plant is under an overhead irrigation system, then of course you want to water before you spray, or wait until the spray has dried, or you will wash it off of the plant, and the application will be rendered useless for the most part.


1

These silvery gray mobile larvae and flying adults are most likely to be fungus gnats. As you have found successful control can be accomplished with: drying out the top of the soil Yellow sticky traps an application of one liter of water and 5 ml of 5 bleach or chlorine, wait a few minutes, followed by more water to wash the chlorine out also works but is ...



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