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19

To keep things simple (mainly for my benefit), lets go with: Total lawn area, 1500ft2 Healthy lawn area, 300ft2 Dead lawn area, 1200ft2 Therefore you have an area of 20% "healthy" lawn remaining. Depending on what you read and from where it comes, it's "generally" said it is worth the time and effort to repair a lawn that has 50% to 66.6% healthy lawn ...


17

Some tips that have worked for me: Loosen up the soil before scattering the seeds so that the seeds aren't trying to penetrate firm soil. Mix the seeds with some compost or sand so that they're not all lying exposed on top of the soil. Press the compost/seed mixture lightly into the existing soil. Water twice a day until the new grass is established. As ...


15

How to aerate is covered by the other answers, but as for how to know if you need areation: If you can easily sink a spade into your soil down to the handle, it doesn't need to be aerated. If you have to force the spade into the ground and/or pound it with a hammer, your soil needs to be aerated. The other sign that aeration is needed is if water isn't ...


13

When filling in low spots on a lawn, fill to a depth of no more than 1inch (25mm) at a time and fill in no more than twice a year, once in early to mid Spring and once in early Autumn (Fall). As long as you fill in no more than 1inch (25mm) at a time, the grass will happily work its way through and fully establish itself at the slightly new higher ...


11

I would continue to water it, but not do anything else until you get cooler weather. Then, in the fall or spring... Rake it a bit to loosen the soil Put down more seed Cover with straw, but not too thick Water


11

I would just use lawn sand or sandy soil. If the hollow is very deep then you could do it with successive treatments, but it sounds like you might be able to get away with one. The sand is relatively fine and not lumpy so the grass easily grows through it. It is also easier to level. We recently moved excess top soil to fill in a large (wide & shallow) ...


10

I have had limited success with peeling back the turf and adding topsoil underneath. I cut three sides of a rectangle with a spade and rolled back the turf. It can be awkward if there are weeds with roots that go deeper than the grass's. It does leave a scar in the lawn, which will take a little while to recover. I suppose you could put seed down on the ...


10

You may also wish to take the time to have a browse through the below site, as it directly relates to lawns in your local area: Turf website for Texas A&M University I highly recommend you listen to, "You Bet Your Garden" podcast -- Not So Perfect Produce, 27the August 2011 (Direct link to MP3) and start listening at 13mins:27secs in. How to ...


9

According to your profile, your location is Bellefonte, PA, therefore unless you correct me, I am going to assume you have a cool-season lawn. Thatch: Enemy of Lawns from University of Missouri Extension: If you follow the above link you will see a photo that clearly shows what thatch build up in a lawn looks like. Removing thatch Examine the lawn ...


9

We had deep ruts in our lawn from when we had a tree service remove a dead/dying mature mulberry tree. I aerated the lawn every spring (+fall if we had a lot of rain). Then I rolled the law with a lawn roller after every heavy rain. Over a couple of years the ruts steadily became smaller and eventually disappeared.


9

It depends how big they are. For small bumps a roller is very effective, but for larger humps you may need to try one of the following: cut the turf up, peel it back, take out sufficient soil (this is relatively easy to get close to flat...not so easy to get exactly right) take the turf off entirely, flatten all the soil and re-lay the turf (bigger job, ...


9

As a former landscaper my favorite quote to clients was "You can have it fast, good or cheap. Pick two." In this situation I see a few solutions: rent a Bobcat with a toothed bucket and remove all the grass and bumps to a dump bin. Apply six inches of topsoil mix, gently compact and sow grass seed or sod. That's fast and good. top dress spring and fall to ...


9

All you need is a spade and a large plastic bucket like you buy drywall or paint in. This is a variation on a french drain and will not provide relief against the "one in a hundred year storm" but should work for most normal rainfalls. get a clean bucket of about twelve inch (thirty centimeter) diameter remove the bottom mark and remove the top six inches ...


8

You can aerate your lawn with a sturdy pitchfork (as well as weed it). But I'd imagine you'd have a hard time doing it when things get too dry or cold. I don't know if there is a bad time to do it while it is possible. You can also spread compost around your lawn, adding nutrients might fix some of the problems you have with hardpacked soil.


8

Is your lawn a warm season lawn or a cool season lawn? If it's a warm season lawn, I believe the best time of year to establish (or repair) is mid spring to very early summer. For a cool season lawn, the best time of year to establish (or repair) is from August 15th to September 15th (exact date will vary slightly depending on the growing zone you're in). ...


8

I dethatch my lawn when the layer is about 3/4" thick . A thick layer of thatch can also: prevent proper aeration. impede the flow of water to the roots. prevent the normal thickening of the turf in autumn. encourage disease I would avoid dethatching (or'scarifying') in spring, when the grass has not yet produced side shoots - if the lawn is opened up, ...


8

The label for this product does not recommend applying grass seed until four weeks after the last application. Once this waiting period is up buy or acquire: a big bag of grass seed suitable for the light and soil in your lawn enough compost or top soil to cover the sparse areas to a depth of 1/4" to 1/2" Then Use a rake to open up the soil. Apply ...


8

One other option would be to work with what you have, rather than trying to drain the water away. You could put in a tree or a bed of plants that can tolerate having wet feet after a rain. They will absorb the water faster than your turf could. I don't know where you live and what plants would be appropriate for your location, but birch, dogwood and iris ...


7

First, I was going to post a similar question, as I would also love to be made aware of a magic bullet for dealing with crabgrass. I'm guessing, I have fairly similar (weather) conditions as yourself, but even hotter & humid summers = Mid-West (St Louis Missouri). Now let me get this "bad" piece out of the way, and I mean no offence by it, it's just my ...


7

The problem that I see is that instead of worrying how many minutes your sprinkler is on you should be worrying about how much water you are getting. What you are doing now is stressing your lawn in the sunny area. Infrequent thorough watering will make your lawn stronger and make it grow a longer root system to withstand lack of water. Put out rain gauges ...


7

It's normal that wherever the sun hits most the grass is usually going to die a lot faster. And unless you are ready for some pretty hefty water bills there is not much you can do about it besides water. Aeration / dethatching may also help as it breaks up the ground and gets rid of all the dead grass beneath the good grass. Aeration will put in those ...


7

Covering seeds with a thin layer of compost or peat moss helps create a moist layer to prevent the seeds from drying out. Also will hopefully keep birds from eating the seeds. And of course, you must keep it damp (water twice a day during warm weather) for proper germination.


7

In the UK: Ground temperature must be over about 8C Seeds must be kept damp (but not washed away) Seed must not be eaten by birds Seed must be able to get its roots into the ground So Don’t try in winter If you are not going to water, then avoid the summer. Cover the seeds with a fine layer of compost/sand/soil Loosen up the soil and remove any dead ...


7

If you have a warm-season lawn, mid-Spring is the ideal time to renovate: * Can my lawn be saved or is it time to dig it up and re-sod? Seeing as you live in the Boston area, I'm 95% certain you would have a cool-season lawn, therefore late-Summer to early-Autumn (Fall) is the ideal time to renovate: What's an organic way to discourage crabgrass from a ...


7

I don't think there is a solution to "helping the lawn recover" because in this case it is completely dead. There's no way to have a permanent (air-blocking and sun-blocking for more than 1-2 days) structure on top of lawn co-exist with living lawn. So we're not talking recovery but somehow mitigating the appearance of dead lawn, or avoiding having it die at ...


7

Vinegar acts as a desiccant. It dissolves the protective coating on the leaves of the plant causing it to dry out and die if the temperatures are warm enough. It usually doesn't destroy the roots and sometimes the plant may come back if there is enough energy in the root system. Dandelions have a large taproot which makes them difficult to kill with ...


6

According to your profile, your location is Utah, that means you could have either a cool-season lawn or warm-season lawn, therefore unless you tell me which one you have, I'm going to base my answer on a cool-season lawn (mainly because I know more about this type of lawn). Cool-Season Grasses: Lawn Maintenance Calendar from University of Missouri ...


6

Theres a product called Seed Starter Fertilizer + Crabgrass Preventer 11-23-10. It is by greenview and can be found here: http://www.greenviewfertilizer.com/store/Seed-Starter-Fertilizer-Crabgrass-Preventer-P44C12.aspx?UserID=7835774&SessionID=gohk6QYKA9s8imKw4jl0 This prevents the crabgrass and at the same time promotes grass seed germination. The ...


6

Just to echo something @JonH has touched on: I live in nearby Irving and I just let it go. Our lawns are a bit of a mix, but the bermudagrass is actually one of the better looking bits when it yellows. As well as huge water savings, here are some other advantages: It doesn't look that untidy - in fact yellow bermuda looks a lot tidier than the "haven't ...



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