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19

To keep things simple (mainly for my benefit), lets go with: Total lawn area, 1500ft2 Healthy lawn area, 300ft2 Dead lawn area, 1200ft2 Therefore you have an area of 20% "healthy" lawn remaining. Depending on what you read and from where it comes, it's "generally" said it is worth the time and effort to repair a lawn that has 50% to 66.6% healthy lawn ...


17

Some tips that have worked for me: Loosen up the soil before scattering the seeds so that the seeds aren't trying to penetrate firm soil. Mix the seeds with some compost or sand so that they're not all lying exposed on top of the soil. Press the compost/seed mixture lightly into the existing soil. Water twice a day until the new grass is established. As ...


13

When filling in low spots on a lawn, fill to a depth of no more than 1inch (25mm) at a time and fill in no more than twice a year, once in early to mid Spring and once in early Autumn (Fall). As long as you fill in no more than 1inch (25mm) at a time, the grass will happily work its way through and fully establish itself at the slightly new higher ...


13

How to aerate is covered by the other answers, but as for how to know if you need areation: If you can easily sink a spade into your soil down to the handle, it doesn't need to be aerated. If you have to force the spade into the ground and/or pound it with a hammer, your soil needs to be aerated. The other sign that aeration is needed is if water isn't ...


10

I would just use lawn sand or sandy soil. If the hollow is very deep then you could do it with successive treatments, but it sounds like you might be able to get away with one. The sand is relatively fine and not lumpy so the grass easily grows through it. It is also easier to level. We recently moved excess top soil to fill in a large (wide & shallow) ...


9

You may also wish to take the time to have a browse through the below site, as it directly relates to lawns in your local area: Turf website for Texas A&M University I highly recommend you listen to, "You Bet Your Garden" podcast -- Not So Perfect Produce, 27the August 2011 (Direct link to MP3) and start listening at 13mins:27secs in. How to ...


9

I have had limited success with peeling back the turf and adding topsoil underneath. I cut three sides of a rectangle with a spade and rolled back the turf. It can be awkward if there are weeds with roots that go deeper than the grass's. It does leave a scar in the lawn, which will take a little while to recover. I suppose you could put seed down on the ...


8

You can aerate your lawn with a sturdy pitchfork (as well as weed it). But I'd imagine you'd have a hard time doing it when things get too dry or cold. I don't know if there is a bad time to do it while it is possible. You can also spread compost around your lawn, adding nutrients might fix some of the problems you have with hardpacked soil.


8

Is your lawn a warm season lawn or a cool season lawn? If it's a warm season lawn, I believe the best time of year to establish (or repair) is mid spring to very early summer. For a cool season lawn, the best time of year to establish (or repair) is from August 15th to September 15th (exact date will vary slightly depending on the growing zone you're in). ...


8

We had deep ruts in our lawn from when we had a tree service remove a dead/dying mature mulberry tree. I aerated the lawn every spring (+fall if we had a lot of rain). Then I rolled the law with a lawn roller after every heavy rain. Over a couple of years the ruts steadily became smaller and eventually disappeared.


8

According to your profile, your location is Bellefonte, PA, therefore unless you correct me, I am going to assume you have a cool-season lawn. Thatch: Enemy of Lawns from University of Missouri Extension: If you follow the above link you will see a photo that clearly shows what thatch build up in a lawn looks like. Removing thatch Examine the lawn ...


8

It depends how big they are. For small bumps a roller is very effective, but for larger humps you may need to try one of the following: cut the turf up, peel it back, take out sufficient soil (this is relatively easy to get close to flat...not so easy to get exactly right) take the turf off entirely, flatten all the soil and re-lay the turf (bigger job, ...


8

As a former landscaper my favorite quote to clients was "You can have it fast, good or cheap. Pick two." In this situation I see a few solutions: rent a Bobcat with a toothed bucket and remove all the grass and bumps to a dump bin. Apply six inches of topsoil mix, gently compact and sow grass seed or sod. That's fast and good. top dress spring and fall to ...


7

First, I was going to post a similar question, as I would also love to be made aware of a magic bullet for dealing with crabgrass. I'm guessing, I have fairly similar (weather) conditions as yourself, but even hotter & humid summers = Mid-West (St Louis Missouri). Now let me get this "bad" piece out of the way, and I mean no offence by it, it's just my ...


7

I dethatch my lawn when the layer is about 3/4" thick . A thick layer of thatch can also: prevent proper aeration. impede the flow of water to the roots. prevent the normal thickening of the turf in autumn. encourage disease I would avoid dethatching (or'scarifying') in spring, when the grass has not yet produced side shoots - if the lawn is opened up, ...


7

In the UK: Ground temperature must be over about 8C Seeds must be kept damp (but not washed away) Seed must not be eaten by birds Seed must be able to get its roots into the ground So Don’t try in winter If you are not going to water, then avoid the summer. Cover the seeds with a fine layer of compost/sand/soil Loosen up the soil and remove any dead ...


7

If you have a warm-season lawn, mid-Spring is the ideal time to renovate: * Can my lawn be saved or is it time to dig it up and re-sod? Seeing as you live in the Boston area, I'm 95% certain you would have a cool-season lawn, therefore late-Summer to early-Autumn (Fall) is the ideal time to renovate: What's an organic way to discourage crabgrass from a ...


7

I don't think there is a solution to "helping the lawn recover" because in this case it is completely dead. There's no way to have a permanent (air-blocking and sun-blocking for more than 1-2 days) structure on top of lawn co-exist with living lawn. So we're not talking recovery but somehow mitigating the appearance of dead lawn, or avoiding having it die at ...


7

The label for this product does not recommend applying grass seed until four weeks after the last application. Once this waiting period is up buy or acquire: a big bag of grass seed suitable for the light and soil in your lawn enough compost or top soil to cover the sparse areas to a depth of 1/4" to 1/2" Then Use a rake to open up the soil. Apply ...


6

According to your profile, your location is Utah, that means you could have either a cool-season lawn or warm-season lawn, therefore unless you tell me which one you have, I'm going to base my answer on a cool-season lawn (mainly because I know more about this type of lawn). Cool-Season Grasses: Lawn Maintenance Calendar from University of Missouri ...


6

The problem that I see is that instead of worrying how many minutes your sprinkler is on you should be worrying about how much water you are getting. What you are doing now is stressing your lawn in the sunny area. Infrequent thorough watering will make your lawn stronger and make it grow a longer root system to withstand lack of water. Put out rain gauges ...


6

It's normal that wherever the sun hits most the grass is usually going to die a lot faster. And unless you are ready for some pretty hefty water bills there is not much you can do about it besides water. Aeration / dethatching may also help as it breaks up the ground and gets rid of all the dead grass beneath the good grass. Aeration will put in those ...


6

Theres a product called Seed Starter Fertilizer + Crabgrass Preventer 11-23-10. It is by greenview and can be found here: http://www.greenviewfertilizer.com/store/Seed-Starter-Fertilizer-Crabgrass-Preventer-P44C12.aspx?UserID=7835774&SessionID=gohk6QYKA9s8imKw4jl0 This prevents the crabgrass and at the same time promotes grass seed germination. The ...


6

However drought-resistant the variety of grass, it will need some water, and clearly this patch below the covered area has received virtually none, hence the problem; so, unless you are prepared for the backache involved in watering it manually, you will have to buy a sprinkler. As I don't have one myself, I can't recommend one, but there are plenty of ...


6

From your previous lawn related questions: How do I quickly remove crabgrass without too much manual labour? Are both of these patches crabgrass? What is this weed in my lawn and how do I control it? Should I bag lawn clippings from a crabgrass infested lawn? Unless you correct me, I'm going to assume you have a cool-season lawn, therefore I believe you ...


6

Below quoted information comes from this answer, Can my lawn be saved or is it time to dig it up and re-sod? Lightly water the complete area, you will want to do this daily for the first couple of weeks (assuming you have no rain). After that, water lightly every 2 to 3 days. Basically you don't want the ground drying out. I'm quoting the below couple ...


5

All you can do is keep the ground as watered as possible. I'm in Bedford, so I'm having the same problems. The major thing to keep track of is that the soil around the foundation of your house doesn't start to pull away; that can cause thousands of dollars in damage as the foundation loses its footing. Other than that, the cracks will fill in when the rains ...


5

Just to echo something @JonH has touched on: I live in nearby Irving and I just let it go. Our lawns are a bit of a mix, but the bermudagrass is actually one of the better looking bits when it yellows. As well as huge water savings, here are some other advantages: It doesn't look that untidy - in fact yellow bermuda looks a lot tidier than the "haven't ...


5

Leave the holes: they'll help to aerate your lawn just as well as any man-made hole. If you have circular patches where the rosette of dandelion leaves has killed the grass, loosen the top inch or so of soil with a handheld cultivator, mix some grass seed into some compost and scatter it over the missing patch. Then keep it well watered for a few weeks ...


5

You will find a lot of questions about grass maintenance on the right side bar and the answers tend to cluster around similar themes. Fast solution: re sod and water thoroughly for first few weeks Slow solution: aerate and dethatch yearly, over seed and top dress twice a year But...your dogs are playing a part with the "paw" traffic and a bit of ...



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