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20

I live in Vegas and have grown lettuce, spinach, and carrots and am now working on growing cucumbers and zucchini. (I'll let you know in about 6 more weeks how that turned out.) I use a "raised" bed (actually, I dug about a foot down [boy, was that caliche fun] then used top soil and compost from Star Nursery instead of the horrible soil we have here) and ...


15

That is Pokeweed.


12

I think you are going to have trouble without irrigation. In North Texas (more humid and probably slightly more temperate, but 100+ temps are common in summer and frosts in winter), we have mixed results with root vegetables. Their main problem is that they need a lot of water and you need to crop early. Corn and beans have grown okay although I found corn ...


11

Lemon balm grows nicely in shade and makes a delicious pesto or refreshing accent to beverages. Parsley fares pretty well inside, too, but needs warmer temperatures in order to thrive. Basil actually doesn't do very well in mostly shade; it grows best in full sun. For vegetables, it seems that leafy greens are easy to grow in shade (which helps prevent ...


10

It's all genetic. Here is a list of the taxonomies of several common curcurbits: Watermelon: Kingdom: Plantae Phylum: Magnoliophyta Class: Magnoliopsida Order: Violales Family: Curcurbitaceae Genus: Citrullus Species: lanatus Squash: Kingdom: Plantae Phylum: Magnoliophyta Class:: Magnoliopsida Order: Violales Family: Curcurbitaceae Genus: Curcurbita ...


10

That is Mock Strawberry, Duchesnea indica. The fruits are edible, but rather tasteless. This is a common weed in much of the United States. Look for small, strawberry-like plants in your lawn, with long stolons connecting the individual crowns. These plants have five petaled yellow flowers. See comparison photos:


10

This is the Concord grape, which due to some diligent and patient planting and tasting of wild born vitis riperia vines one was discovered that tastes good for tables and juice and was named Concord. This is also the grape that was first used to make "grape flavor" but I think it is now synthesized.


8

A quote from Golden Gate Gardener on the identification This happens because some mites enter the flower buds and start sucking out the sap. The ovary of the flower is misshapen, so the fruit is, well, outlandish. Citrus bud mite is apparently particularly a problem near the coast in our area, just where we depend on lemons for most of our garden citrus. ...


8

If you want all of the plants to be the same type, you would probably want a row of shrubs that grow between 3 and 6 feet tall and don't spread much. Blueberries would do well in your location, if you have an acid soil high in humus. Thornless blackberries would produce lots of fruit, but take a lot of care in pruning and supporting. Grapes need more ...


8

Highbush blueberries: They're a reasonable size Make an attractive hedge Attractive fall foliage Blueberries are delicious!


8

That is Passiflora suberosa, or corky stem passionflower. The fruits are edible when ripe. They can contain small amounts of cyanide when green. Note that this is an invasive weed in some areas. References: 1. (cabi.org) http://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/38805 2. (toptropicals.com) http://toptropicals.com/catalog/uid/Passiflora_suberosa.htm 3. ...


8

I believe that what you're describing is a type of citrus medica commonly known under many names such as Citron, Etrog, Esrog, Turanj, Bara Nimbu, e.t.c. and I'd guess they also come in all kinds of shapes and sizes. I've seen really odd octopus-like looking fingered etrog ones with their bottom half split into many arms or fingers, but most would look like ...


8

A healthy strawberry runner is considered to be a "new" plant. Many of the long-term strawberry beds I've read about use runners as a way of renewing the beds every year or every other year, and as a result, the bed itself produces for quite a long time. To maintain the quality and productivity of the berry patch, the planting must be renovated each ...


7

Having been in a commercial apple "cold store", I would think coolness was the most important. The lights were on when I was there, but I assume they went off when the door closed. Can't comment on air circulation, or what kind of humidity control existed (this was in England). However, I think windfalls are probably a major reason for your problem. ...


7

Tomato fruit splitting, assuming it occurs as the fruits are growing/ripening, is caused by uneven or irregular water supply, or wildly fluctuating temperatures. If they're in a heated greenhouse, check that the temperature remains fairly even night and day - a temperature drop at night is fine, but not if it's dropping by a lot. Equally, if the greenhouse ...


7

As long as you are willing to water there are many options. Fruit trees that will work: low chill, early ripening apples, peaches, plums, figs, pomegranates, nectarines and apricots and virtually all varieties of citrus trees. Grapes can also be grown, as well as melons and strawberries. I have seen various bare root berries available (my two attempts at ...


6

I'd think blueberries, too - except for the driveway location. You neighbor may not thank you for all the blue bird-poop. If you are willing to put netting over them, if you need to, then I agree that they're the best fit otherwise. You might consider golden raspberries. The canes are nowhere near as nice to look at as blueberry bushes, but the berries ...


6

An article at slate.com describes how food labs measure calories, and where the calorie numbers come from on food labels. It's good for background info on the process. Unless you have a remarkably well-stocked and well-equipped lab in your basement, you're not going to be able to test vitamin content at home. As far as I can tell, literature dealing with ...


6

It's a water problem, specifically, not enough, evidenced by the browning edges on the leaves and the shrivelled fruits. Once the berries start forming, you need to keep the plant well supplied with water, or the fruit will atrophy on the stem. You say you bought the plant earlier this year, so the fact it's only been planted this year also means it has a ...


6

Well, technically, yes. You should always give them their first growing season free of fruiting. This encourages the plant to become more established than if you (like me) let them fruit the first year. Even if they grow roots in the fall, and some more in the spring, that's not the same as being established. It gives them a good head start to plant them in ...


6

Osage orange Maclura pomifera, a.k.a hedge-apple. a.k.a. Bois d'arc and further mangled to bodark. The latter set of names have to do with the wood's suitability for archery bows.


6

Miracle fruit (Synsepalum dulcificum) belongs to the Sapotaceae family, and you'd need host roots from a plant within that family, though whether there are any suitable or compatible isn't something I know. But why not grow it in a pot - it's said to do well and fruit in containers, given the right conditions, even though it won't achieve its full, in the ...


5

Suggestions: Mint Ginger, cardamom or other Zingiberales Chives or other Allia (assuming enough morning sun) Cranberries, lingonberries or other Vaccinia See also Five Overlooked Edible Plants for Your Garden which suggests Wintergreen and edible ferns as commonly overlooked shade-loving edibles.


5

Oregon's Agricultural Extension Service has the best Extension Service web site I've ever seen! When you look in seed catalogs, you'll see they give a number of days from planting to harvest for each variety.


5

Local newspapers and master gardener groups are a place to look - they may have websites of pamphlets/booklets. Here's one for Eugene (see note below): http://www.eugeneweekly.com/springplantingguide/index.html Also your local agricultural university (not sure if that will be U.Oregon, or if you have an "A&M" as it were) will usually have very ...


5

We may have a similar climate at least in summer, I am in a mediterranean climate. Heat started early with two weeks of 40+C (104F) followed by high 30s. No rain until autumn if we are luckly. I restrict the vegi patch to a very small area in summer which I can water. A few tomatoe plants which are started early so they are large and fruiting before the ...


5

Have you checked the pH of the soil AND water? Should be just right at 7... Are you using a citrus fertilizer? Should be using a fertilizer for citrus... Have you checked closely for pests? Some pests will feed on roots and you won't see them... Are you sure you're not OVER watering or feeding? That's a quick way to kill a plant slowly... Is the soil ...


5

According to Peggy A. Mauk, Ph.D. and Tom Shea: This is frequently referred to as “June drop”. Young fruit (smaller than 1 inch in diameter) may drop in May, June and/or July. Some fruit drop is natural. Excessive drop may be due to drought stress, sudden high temperatures, low humidity, or nitrogen deficiency. Heavy pruning, thrips, mites, or spray ...


5

Goji berry vines are highly susceptible to Powdery Mildew. In fact, I wouldn't recommend trying to grow them in the Pacific Northwest as it's too damp here. In 10 years of trying, they leaf out lushly, and about a month later start mildewing. Nothing you do will get rid of the mildew as it's a systemic problem with the plant. I've only ever gotten about ...



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