Tag Info

Hot answers tagged

11

Oh yes, they will. I always do this and one or two bunches from the store is enough to produce green onions for an average household for a few months. While the scallions are refrigerated in the store, I try to chop off the bulbs as soon as I get home and plant them. However, a day or two's delay shouldn't matter. Onions are generally very easy to grow ...


7

Full sized onions should be removed from the ground, with as much of their wrappers left intact as possible, as soon as they're ready to be harvested. Then either: Allowed to dry in a dry shady area for a day, then used immediately. Hung to air dry (cured) for 2 to 3 weeks in a dry shady area with good air circulation until they dry out. To maximise their ...


7

Yes, I should think so, but I suppose the success rate would vary depending on what kind of bulb it is. Bulbs contain the food or nutrients to keep it alive while it is dormant through the winter. Sixty days in the fridge is shorter than an outdoor overwintering and definitely cool enough so they should be fine. If the bulb is too squishy it might have ...


6

Given that it grows on poor soils, is shallowly planted, is evergreen (since it stays green this time of year), and has a white easter lily like bloom. I would guess it is Madonna Lily (Lilium candidum) (USDA zone 4-5). Photo of Lilium candidum at VanDusen Botanical Garden, taken July 2005 by Stan Shebs. A photo of madonna lily's evergreen basal growth, ...


6

I haven't found myself in this situation, so I can's speak from experience, but following on from bstpierre's advice, rather than discard those that have sprouted, I would try storing them as suggested below, and then plant them as soon as the ground is workable in the spring: Store bulbs in a dry place If the bulbs are in a plastic bag, the first ...


5

Wait until the foliage yellows, then remove the plants from the pots, trim off all the tops and roots. Plant them 4-6" deep if you have a sandy soil, slightly more shallow if you have clay. Cover the soil with 1" of a straw-type mulch and tamp down. It should then need no further attention until spring.


5

Have you had unseasonably warm weather in the past few weeks? (we have down here in Texas). Unseasonably warm weather will often 'trick' plants into producing new leaves and/or flowers early. The real problem occurs if there's a frost which kills new buds/growth (I suspect daffodils are less prone to that than, say, fruit trees).


5

Without knowing what bulbs you have, I can only give general advice: Remove and discard any that have sprouted. Store the bag in a cool, dry, dark place over the winter. Check regularly and remove any bulbs that have sprouted or are rotting. You might have some that are viable next spring.


4

Last year, I stored tulips and daffodils in the fridge from September until January. I only got one daffodil to bloom (but the weather was VERY flip-floppy last year which confused my entire garden). However, the tulips all bloomed incredibly (it was perfect temperatures for them when they were busy blooming). My conclusion is that your bulbs will be fine. ...


4

The leaves of Armenian grape hyacinth (Muscari armeniacum) normally emerge in the fall. This species includes many of the modern named varieties. Common grape hyacinth (Muscari botryoides) consistantly sends up leaves in the fall in Washington State, but does this less often in other areas, like Minnesota. Once grape hyacinths go dormant in the late spring ...


4

I believe you will find "tender bulbs" are easier (less work) to grow indoors than "hardy bulbs", though both types can be grown indoors. Therefore given the choice between Rain Lily (tender bulb) and Hyacinth (hardy bulb) I would go with the Rain Lily. Hippeastrum is another tender bulb you may want to look at, it's a "popular" indoor flowering (bulb) ...


4

The grape like fruits are the seed pods. Yes, you can grow snowdrops from seed, but for most bulbs it will take 2-4 years from seed to bulb. Given how many seeds each one can produce this is easily your fastest way. Failing that, however, pruning off the seed pods/ flowers ASAP means that the plant pushes more energy into growing the bulb. Now, some ...


3

Yes, they will be fine. As the energy of the plant was exhausted by producing the bud, it need to store the energy again in the coming year. If the deers didn't ate the whole lily and some leaves are still there, they can do photosynthesis thus storing the nutrient again. And when the next suitable season come, the flower will still bloom. After all, if ...


3

Replant it roots down and it might stage a comeback. The stem will come about.


3

With good soil and a sunny location and without lily beetles attacking from scale to a small flower could be three to five years. Edit: @jmusser asks about a timeline for growth rates. From here Seed - immediate epigeal germination[130]. Sow thinly in pots from late winter to early spring in a cold frame. Should germinate in 2 - 4 weeks[163]. Great ...


3

You should not have any difficulty growing hyacinths under the conditions you describe, although, as jmusser points out, you will not be able to make permanent residents of them.When I was a child, my mother successfully "forced" bowls of hyacinths (fooled them into thinking that winter was over and it was Spring and time to bloom) every year, so that they ...


3

You will not be able to grow a long term plant that way, but you could probably force something. Trying different things would be a good way to to find what does best in your conditions. Hyacinths or narcissus seem like good choices to try out.


3

I had a friend tell me that I could put about the last 2 inches of green onions in a shot glass or other small glass and fill it with water (being sure to leave to top sticking out) then stick in in my window sill so it gets a lot of sun and they will re grow! You just have to keep an eye on the amount of water so it doesnt dry up. Ive been doing it for the ...


3

I would re-pot it and fertilize it and keep it moist for a while, and if nothing happened in a couple of months, I would get rid of it.


3

I'm guessing it's a blue-eyed grass (Sisyrinchium), but the blub-like thickening at the base doesn't look right, so perhaps it's something else in the iris family. [c.f Sisyrinchium bermudianum]


3

Hardy bulbs, such as hyacinth, require a number of hours of cold in order to properly set blooms for the spring. If they are planted outdoors in a suitable climate, this happens naturally during the course of the fall and winter. If you want to have them bloom ahead of schedule in pots, you have to simulate this winter rest by "cold treating" them in some ...


3

I don't think its Lilium superbum - the petals are much more reflexed on that plant, curling back so far as to almost touch the trumpet at the back. Much more likely it's Lilium canadense, or the Canada Lily - can be yellow, orange or red, usually found growing in damper places.


3

Tulips do best when planted deep, like 8 inches, for best perennialization. Daffodils, on the other hand, will spread much faster when planted at 3-4" deep. Now, this is for the purpose of perennialization, to make sure the plants return each year. Bulbs need root space as much as other plants, long term. If it's a one season thing you are doing, They will ...


2

I had been trying to keep the water level covering the bottom 1/4" to 1/2" of the bulbs, but now that they're putting down roots, I'm aiming for just up to the bottom of the bulbs. Having the bulbs themselves constantly sitting in the water, even such a small amount is the most likely cause of the mold (IMHO). If it was me, I would: Very! ...


2

The cooling period depends on if we're talking "hardy" bulbs or "tender" bulbs (or "semi-tender" bulbs). Hardy bulbs require a cooling period of 40°F (4°C) or below. Most can withstand weeks of sub-freezing temperatures. Crocuses, Daffodils, Scilla, Tulips, etc can all be left in the ground here (USDA Hardiness Zone 6a) and we get below 0°F ...


2

The two areas have pretty much the same soil and water. The newer area might have slightly better soil in so far as it has been turned over more recently and had some potting soil that came with the bulbs worked into it as part of planting the new bulbs. The new area also gets a little more direct sunlight in the morning, and more shade in the afternoon. ...


2

Whether the bulb is sprouted or not, the most important conditions for storing your bulbs are: dry and cold. The best for the specific summer bulb you mention is between 45-55°F (7-13°C). The cardboard box is perfect but I'd put some dry material over them to absorb ambient moisture.


2

Replant it. Most likely it'll come back. You could toss it. However, just put it back in the ground wherever it came from.


2

Flowers do not need to bloom or be fertilized to do well. They do need good soil, light, and foliage. As long as the deer leave that alone the lilies will be fine. Some plants, like bromeliads, will flower and die so if you remove the flower bud it will last much longer than a plant in the wild. Plants expend an enormous amount of energy on producing ...


2

Tulip growers will claim that all tulips are perennial in the right conditions. Planting them deep, up to 8" deep, seems to help as well. I have found that Darwin Hybrids are the best for my alkaline clay based soil in USDA zone 4. These "perennial" tulips are the result of crossing the old Darwin Tulips with Fosteriana Tulips, which grow wild. However, ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible