Well simply amazing. Here are the facts for cool season grass mixes. KEEP at 3" period. The reason is that these grass species need the topgrowth to feed (plants produce their own FOOD via photosynthesis) adequately the genetically large root systems. Any shorter and no amount of fertilizer, water will make your grass healthy. You are on borrowed time. Green does NOT mean healthy.
One can mow as often as 2 or 3 times per week, as long as the blades are sharp, doesn't matter about the tires/weight. If one does not mow at least 1 time per week, the grass gets too long, to cut it more than 1/3 will stress your grass, whether or not you are able to detect stress. Stress is accumulative.
Never, ever mow your lawn with a weed wacker, unless you've been very, very bad. This is a big stress for a manicured lawn. Kind of like you get 2 or 3 or 4 'stresses' before you will notice, but then the weeds will already be moving in.
Do not use fast-release fertilizer. This is another huge stress! Use instead a slow-release or slow-release organic fertilizer that has bacteria and mycorrhizae included. Takes a bit more to see greening but WOW!! I use Dr. Earth organic lawn fertilizer and until I find a similar brand elsewhere, this is what I will use...and I have done over a decade of maintaining other people's lawns for a living...this incredible fertilizer although slow lasts twice as long. It is more expensive that the fast stuff but you need half as much!!
Do not 'mulch'...I have not found a single mower that can actually 'mulch' grass where it doesn't build up faster than it decomposes. (Dr. Earth lawn fertilizer has bacteria that are responsible to decompose this material...). Use the clippings for weed control on plant beds if spread thinly or use in your compost pile as a 'green'...
Always, always make sure your blades are super sharp. Purchase extra blades so that you can change blades out when necessary. Look at the tips of your grass. If they are at all FRAYED and browning, change the blades! Have them professionally sharpened if you do not understand how to sharpen blades.
Aerate ONCE PER YEAR!! This means renting or hiring an aerator that pulls PLUGS of lawn and soil out of your lawn and LEAVE to dry and disintegrate on top of your lawn!! Do not waste this 'gold' by raking it up to discard...arrrhhhgggghhh.
Train your lawn (especially these big rooted cool-season grass mixes) to be drought tolerant. If you have an established lawn with automatic watering that you have programmed for EVERY day or even every other day...you need to pay attention!! To do this correctly, you water for a good half hour or an entire hour. Meantime, you take a spade and make a big dig. You should see wet soil at least 4" below the surface. Then no watering AT ALL until you see your footprints on the lawn stay down. This is a perfect time to water, and once again water deeply...at least 4" deep. Once your lawn has been trained to have deep roots, you will only need to water once per week. Period. Watering every day shallowly ensures your lawn will definitely go dormant if you miss a few waterings! Allowing your lawn to go dormant IS NOT GOOD FOR YOUR LAWN!! Once is OK. MAYBE twice. More than that you WILL have lots of weeds and a very wimpy bunch of grasses!! No amount of fertilizer or water will make your lawn healthy again.
Overseeding won't be necessary. Definitely no moss control!! (shoot, this entails sulfur to kill mosses which in no way harm your grasses, moss is an opportunist and will grow wherever there is bare soil, enough moisture and shade...your grasses want more alkaline, sulfur brings the pH down way too much so you'll have to lime). You should do a soil test at least twice. Once to see what you've got going on and the second time after you've added chemicals.
Thatching is only necessary if one hasn't been maintaining their grasses correctly. If you've been mowing short, not been aerating, watering shallowly use fast release non-organic fertilizer once a season...this will probably be necessary and soon. Not pretty, in fact I feel that at this point it would be easier to use a sod cutter and remove the entire lawn to begin again.
Redesign your lawn so that none of it is in the shade. Growing a lawn in the shade is simply STUPID. What a headache!! So much easier to use a finely crushed and compacted gravel as a surface than mess with 'shade TOLERANT grasses'!!
Put some energy into a designed and clean 'edge' for your lawn. The eye sees the edge, as long as the bulk of the lawn is mowed and greenish, it is the edging that makes or breaks a lawn. No concrete, plastic or pavers between plant beds and lawn!!! Looks awful and far more expensive to do than simply keeping a trench between plant beds and lawn.
For a beautiful lawn, you really don't need a maintenance crew!! You need a dang good hydrostatic lawn mower that raises enough to cut to 3". Again, purchase at least 2 extra blades for your residential mower and continue to take dull blades back into the professional sharpeners (unless you understand how to sharpen blades). Rent the aerator once per year. You should definitely have a great 'weed wacker'. Gas powered, not electric! I'd get a straight, not curved and probably Stihl. I hate the 'pound' as you go heads, get a simple (straight) head that you only have to cut off a strand and weave it into the head, make sure the lines aren't too long...as opposed to the pound and weird winding head!! Watch what you are doing and understand (hey, I had to do this professionally and almost went into competition) that shield does little, I always had it removed. But one little bitty rock could easily bust windows (always MY truck's windows sigh), client's expensive windows or worse someone's eye!) at a distance of 100 yards!!
The other piece of equipment you HAVE to have is a gas-powered BLOWER! Again, Stihl. I couldn't LIVE without my blower (or weed wacker)!!! I am very against petroleum but as long as we have to battle, maintain non-organic landscapes I will NEVER EVER OPT FOR ELECTRICAL. No comparison!! If you've got any iron in your fertilizer you HAVE to get it off any concrete. To remove these iron stains involves acid and gee...what a mess of chemicals. Just blow everything off after mowing...
These are the absolute basics to have a HEALTHY, beautiful lawn. These other opinions are voodoo. My opinion, grin!! Hey, good luck!